UM2 and Duet3D board

[neotko 1,417]

On 11/7/2018 at 11:49 AM, conny_g said:

@neotko

 

Currently using the tinker firmware. How does that compare with the duet firmware?

And I use the magnetic tool changer dual mod, is that possible with the duet firmware and how do I implement it there, you mentioned macros?

 

 

Tinkergnome did an awesome job to push the um2 firmware that for sure. But the hardware is what it is. Duet3D can do more (and expand to more extruders/tools) and types of heat sensors (the cheap ones or use pt100 with their sensor boards (I use that))

 

To adapt the tinkergnome to duet3D toolchange theres one challenge that I never did test. The PSU is on the limit for dual, tinkergnome did an awesome job balancing the power use & the heat sequence. But all that could be mimicked with some reverse engineering & using the macros. Duet3D allows to set a max power use for each bed/heaters, so it shouldn’t be more complex that setting the right limit (this is something marlin doesn’t do). 

 

The advantage is that changing stuff is just gcode txt editing that can be done through the www access of the duet3D. So in terms of trial/error it speeds things up quite a lot compared to firmware-flash-test

[conny_g 251]

@neotko @tinkergnome

Thank you!

I think now my concerns / uncertainties are flushed out and my curiosity rises and I feel like ordering a duet board to put next to the printer for the mod as soon as I have time for it.

 

Regarding power, I have upgraded my two printers to a 15A PSU from Aliexpress, not having any issues with printer crashes any more, although I have the power budget set to 350W.

So I think that’s not an issue.

 

[MarcoUbtz 15]

Hello users!

Finally I am moving to Duet board, the migration is still in progress but for the moment it is really interesting!

 

At the moment I have some problem with the configuration of the Z axis.

I have some difficulty especially with the writing of the homez.g .

I hope someone can help me to write and configure it.

 

@neotko @ultiarjan

 

Edit: I did the Configuration tool but the homez.g seems incorrect for the um.

Edited November 15, 2018 by MarcoUbtz

[zerspaner_gerd 382]

Here is my homez.g

; homez.g
; called to home the Z axis
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Sat Mar 10 2018 12:05:11 GMT+0100 (Mitteleuropäische Zeit)
G91              ; relative positioning
G1 S1 Z215 F1600 ; move Z up until the switch triggers
G1 Z-5.0 F1400
G1 S1 Z7.5 F800 ; move Z up until the switch triggers

 

In config.g then the following sentence must be present:

M208 X227 Y230 Z210.982 S0

X Y Z you need to adapt to your printer

[JRDM 5]

14 hours ago, zerspaner_gerd said:

In config.g then the following sentence must be present:

M208 X227 Y230 Z210.982 S0

X Y Z you need to adapt to your printer

 

Does that mean you need to check and adjust the Z value in config.g whenever you change nozzles, for example?

[MarcoUbtz 15]

Thanks @zerspaner_gerd 👍

[neotko 1,417]

On 11/16/2018 at 4:54 PM, JRDM said:

 

Does that mean you need to check and adjust the Z value in config.g whenever you change nozzles, for example?

 

You can set a tool Z offset to realign the Z. That’s specially necessary if you don’t have a calibration tool for the Z or if you keep the endstop at the bottom.

 

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_G10_Tool_Offset

 

Using this you can change the Z offset for the tool (you can do a T0 after changing the main tool Z offset on the config.g so this kicks in).

 

I moved the endstop to the top to avoid using this specially because the endstop at the bottom makes the Z repetition less accurate (heat, distance, etc can add 0.1 error that for me is not good enough). With an endstop on top, without the metal and a small plastic part to hit the sensor directly my endstop accuracy is near 0.025 max error. So yeah I prefer the endstop on the top not the bottom like um2. 

 

Another trick to calibrate the bed fast is to do a M18 X Y that will unlock the x and y motors so you can move it by hand and realign the z calibration knobs really fast without the bed assistant stuff. Anyhow mimicking it is quite easy with macros, but IMO totally unnecessary 

[zerspaner_gerd 382]

On 11/16/2018 at 4:54 PM, JRDM said:

Does that mean you need to check and adjust the Z value in config.g whenever you change nozzles, for example?

 

You can also save it with M500 (simply said), so it will be overwritten in "config-override.g".

Thus, there is no need to change the "config.g" file manually

 

Edit:

But sometimes I just change the value in "config-override.g", goes faster.

Edited November 19, 2018 by zerspaner_gerd

[ultiarjan 1,223]

+1 for just adjusting the value in  -config-override.g-   I do it like that also

[JRDM 5]

22 hours ago, zerspaner_gerd said:

 

You can also save it with M500 (simply said), so it will be overwritten in "config-override.g".

Thus, there is no need to change the "config.g" file manually

 

Edit:

But sometimes I just change the value in "config-override.g", goes faster.

 

It still sound a lot more involved and clumsier than the simple "Adjust Z Height" routine in the Tinkergnome menu where I can just turn the dial until the nozzle touches the middle of the plate and clicking saves the zero offset. Is there something I'm missing that can allow similar functionality in Duet?

 

Same with the level adjustment routine.

 

I want to get away from Marlin, Tinker Marlin etc but I'm not seeing a way forward on these particular issues.

Edited November 20, 2018 by JRDM

[tinkergnome 927]

1 hour ago, JRDM said:

I can just turn the dial until the nozzle touches the middle of the plate and clicking saves the zero offset. Is there something I'm missing that can allow similar functionality in Duet?

 

RepRap firmware is very open and flexible, runs on modern ARM processors, but is - of course - not polished for an Ultimaker out of the box.

Though it's very easy to add (so called) macros for all kinds of stuff like this. As soon as one starts to add those specific functionality for the particular printer it can become even more convenient then the stock firmware.

It's not limited to (pre-) compiled things like Marlin, one can expand it on its own. Well someone has to do it - and to share it - of course...

For example: i use it on a different printer, added a BLTouch for mesh bed compensation and a filament sensor - makes life so easy...

Such things are not possible with Marlin without recompiling.

 

[JRDM 5]

6 minutes ago, tinkergnome said:

 

RepRap firmware is very open and flexible, runs on modern ARM processors, but is - of course - not polished for an Ultimaker out of the box.

Though it's very easy to add (so called) macros for all kinds of stuff like this. As soon as one starts to add those specific functionality for the particular printer it can become even more convenient then the stock firmware.

It's not limited to (pre-) compiled things like Marlin, one can expand it on its own. Well someone has to do it - and to share it - of course...

For example: i use it on a different printer, added a BLTouch for mesh bed compensation and a filament sensor - makes life so easy...

Such things are not possible with Marlin without recompiling.

 

 

Yeah don't get me wrong, I love RRF but figuring out how to set it up a certain way can be a chore.

 

I think maybe I've figured out how to set it up it from the Duet Web Control.

Maestro does offer the ability to use RRF style 12864 LCDs, I really haven't dug into what that offers. I'm not sure if the UM2 front panel is even compatible, I haven't dug into whether a compatible chip is being used there.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

1 hour ago, JRDM said:

It still sound a lot more involved and clumsier than the simple "Adjust Z Height" routine in the Tinkergnome menu where I can just turn the dial until the nozzle touches the middle of the plate and clicking saves the zero offset. Is there something I'm missing that can allow similar functionality in Duet?

 

It's almost as simple, you just move the bed up using the webinterface for leveling (I just use a piece of paper like like I always did on the ultimaker), write down the offset number, and type it into the "config-override.g". Specially as you really don't have to do it often I can't be bothered writing a macro for it. 

 

But writing macros for the duet is super easy and flexible, also just changing firmware settings thru config files without the need to compile and do difficult stuff is just brilliant.

 

[JRDM 5]

2 hours ago, ultiarjan said:

 

It's almost as simple, you just move the bed up using the webinterface for leveling (I just use a piece of paper like like I always did on the ultimaker), write down the offset number, and type it into the "config-override.g". Specially as you really don't have to do it often I can't be bothered writing a macro for it. 

 

I like to do it on every nozzle change or when I swap bed plates, either can alter the Z offset. I might do one or the other maybe once a week.

 

I consider writing down the number and editing a file to be to be a step back in quality of user interaction compared to turning a dial and clicking.

 

 

[MarcoUbtz 15]

Hi Guys, I am still moving to duet's board.

Today's problem is the hot end 5V fan, simply I have a problem to turn it on.

 

I already splitted and plugged black/orange[-] cable on GND of FAN_2 and the red/blue[+] one to the 5V pin of the expansion board connector but it doesn't turn on when the nozzle reaches the target temp.

 

I don't think but I paste here the part of confing.g maybe is there my problem:

; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1                      ; Set fan 0 value, model fans
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H-1                      ; Set fan 1 value, leds
M106 P2 S0 I0 F500 H1 T40                   ; Set fan 2 value, hotend fan

 

Edit, the two PT100 are correctly inserted and I read the correct temp

Edited November 21, 2018 by MarcoUbtz

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Think the S0 on the hot end fan needs to be S255.

 

Here's my fans setup (I use a case fan, type like a UM3 side fan,  at half speed to reduce the noise)

 

; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1         ; Set fan 0 - print cooling side fans -  value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S255 I0 F500 H1 T35        ; Set fan 1 - heatsinkfan -value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S153 I0 F500 H-1         ; Set fan 2 - case FANS - value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off

 

 

[MarcoUbtz 15]

Thanks @ultiarjan! Now it works

[conny_g 251]

I have now ordered Duet3D Duet 2 1.04 Wifi Board and two PT100 adapters (for 2 extruders) and hope to have the time in the next months to convert one of my printers. Yes, months... too much work, too many projects, currently. 😞
 

[JRDM 5]

I have had a Duet Maestro running on my UM2 for a few weeks now, though only used it on and off. I'm still looking for a less-clumsy way of fine tuning the Z offset for nozzle or bed plate swaps but otherwise, it works pretty nicely. The motor noise is pretty much gone. If you want to use PT100 sensors, you do need the board. I have dual extrusion with PT100 on each nozzle, but my upgraded bed & enclosure heater use thermistors.

 

I haven't traced through whether the little front OLED screen is compatible. I don't have any illusion of making the front panel work as nicely as it did on Tinkergnome, I'd at least like it to display some status info instead of being an empty black recess. I'm still trying to make macros that bring back some of the slick functionality UM firmware and Tinkergnome had in the AVR firmwares, but that will come in time.

Edited December 31, 2018 by JRDM

[ultiarjan 1,223]

when you use a big enough screen you don't have to look at an "empty black recess" 🤣

 

[neotko 1,417]

Just in case you ever notice weird underextrusion that you can’t debug (specially if you don’t use geared or bondtech motor feeder) I would suggest everyone to set the extruder on duet3d to disable the interpolation on the extruder

 

To do so change the config.g extruder config to:

M350 E16 I0 ; Disable interpolation on extruder
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation for XYZ

 

This way by splitting in two lines you can set I0 for no interpolation for the selected feeders and enable it for the rest.

 

I had some issues with bad filament that comes very tight on the end of the spool and removing the interpolation I could regain enough torque to remove the issue.

[hugoboc 0]

Hello guys,

 

I am currently thinking to upgrade my Ultimaker 2 with the Duet3D wifi board, mostly to help the noise reduction of the stepper motors, which is quite loud on my printer.

 

Thank you very much for the great video you made @neotko it will help alot! Are there any updates to take in consideration since 2017?

 

Also, other than the small changes that I saw on the video, is there anything else to be changed on the printer, like stepper motors, sensors, etc? I can simply buy the board, connect everything, configure the firmware and that's it? 🙂

 

Oh, and how did you connect the power switch?

 

Thank you very much, it's great to be part of this community! 🙂

[neotko 1,417]

17 hours ago, hugoboc said:

Hello guys,

 

I am currently thinking to upgrade my Ultimaker 2 with the Duet3D wifi board, mostly to help the noise reduction of the stepper motors, which is quite loud on my printer.

 

Thank you very much for the great video you made @neotko it will help alot! Are there any updates to take in consideration since 2017?

 

Also, other than the small changes that I saw on the video, is there anything else to be changed on the printer, like stepper motors, sensors, etc? I can simply buy the board, connect everything, configure the firmware and that's it? 🙂

 

Oh, and how did you connect the power switch?

 

Thank you very much, it's great to be part of this community! 🙂

 

I did ‘cut’ the psu to the board cutting the plug, I remember someone making a convert cable from um psu to plug, but can’t find it. 

 

They have been working absolutely fantastic on my 3 printers, would never to back to atmega or no wifi boards. I have them plug into a switch with buttons to turn of each printer cutting the power, but frankly I only turn them off in vacation and since you can upload the gcodes by wifi and do everything like reset, etc, I never actually turn them off.

 

The config.g needs some work, and I would recommend to move the Z endstop to the top (like umo+) to save time, but duet3d you can plug a bed z sensor and do a mesh calibration if you want (I don’t do that). Overall the biggest difference is that you can rebuild everything (temp, sensors, fans, etc) by editing a gcode file, no need to reflash or prehistoric stuff.

[neotko 1,417]

Also @hugoboc check duet3d forum, lots of users there, very experienced on mods and hacks

[ultiarjan 1,223]

23 hours ago, hugoboc said:

I am currently thinking to upgrade my Ultimaker 2 with the Duet3D wifi board, mostly to help the noise reduction of the stepper motors, which is quite loud on my printer.

Just do it, you wont regret it... I used a different industrial powersupply I had laying around, but just cutting the plug of the UM PSU is the easiest.