Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

I want to try to edit out lines to resume a print at point of failure.

Recommended Posts

I got back from my appointment and wanted to share what I found:


First a tutorial: https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/how-rescue-print-stopped-mid-way


Second, the program is Repetier Host. You will find that link in the tut. I am still working out the kinks, but it seems ok at first glance.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've sure done this over and over and over


Use a good notepad program. Basically, keep everything until the first move away from the priming area and remove everything. The important bits are dealing with Z - you may have trouble homing Z with the print on the bed, but you can manually adjust the Z-level, and change the initial "home all axis" to "home X Y" only, and it'll pick up from your Z.


;Filament used: 3.37922m
;Layer height: 0.2
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.0.3
M190 S68
M104 S205
M109 S205
M82 ; absolute extrusion mode
G28;Home ALL
G92 E2948.38352 ; Set Extruder position to "E2948.38352" OFFSET TO WHERE WE'RE AT on layer ten
G1 E2947.9 F2700
G0 Z2.1
G0 X44.942 Y-.311 Z2.2
G1 F4889.9 X46.471 Y1.216 E2948.38352
G1 X46.541 Y1.286
G0 F9000 X46.532 Y1.286
G0 X44.942 Y0.311

Here is some old code I'd edited to finish a failed print some time ago. Note my "massive delet"(sic), the comments explain most of it.


Hope it helps, Sir.

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

First step is to figure out EXACTLY what the Z was where it failed.  You can often do this by comparing layer view carefully with the print.  Ideally there is some detail that is different on the last successful layer so you can figure that out.  Alternatively you can set the Z position very carefully with the nozzle cold and figure out what the height is exactly that way.  It probably requires sending gcodes to the printer so you have to use ssh.  Before you can use ssh you have to have the printer in dev mode.  But better to figure it out by looking carefully (more accurate) at the print and in layer view.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Next - will you be able to  prime without hitting the print?  Have your fingers on the power button if you aren't sure.  I've continued a failed print on the UM2 but never tried it on the UM3.



You should probalby eliminate the priming part as well.  Leave all those comments at the top (they start with semi colon).  Typical gcode for um3 starts similar to this:

M82 ;absolute extrusion mode

G92 E0
M109 S210
G0 F15000 X9 Y6 Z2
G1 F1500 E-6.5
M204 S625
M205 X6 Y6
G0 F4285.7 X110.836 Y74.325 Z0.27
M204 S500
M205 X5 Y5

T0 sets to tool 0 or left core.  T1 to right core.  Decide where you left off or plan to start up and choose that core.


Leave the M82 alone

M109 heats up the core (T0 in this case as that is the most recent chosen)

Get rid of that G0 that goes to Z2 that moves to prime position and will likely hit your print

Get rid of the G280 - it must do the prime itself - never heard of G280

Get rid of the E-6.5 - that's a retraction

M107 is fan off.  You want fan on.  Change that to:

M106  S255 ;fan on 100%  (255=100% 0=0%)


Leave M204 and M205 alone - those are for acceleration and jerk settings and will get changed most likely later anyway.

Delete that G0 to layer Z0.27 (0.27 is the height of the bottom layer.

In fact delete from that G0 F4285 (in my case) all the way to where you want it to start printing.


Look at the first line where you want it to start printing - something like this:

G0 X118.553 Y121.431 Z8.07
M204 S4000
M205 X25 Y25
G1 F1500 E343.49731
G1 F4200 X113.659 Y116.537 E343.57325

Note that in my case the first extrusion move has extruder position E343.49731.  If you do nothing else it will try to advance the extruder 343mm which would be bad - lots of grinding.  so instead, do this:

M92 E343.49731 


M92 tells the printer to reset an axis (in this case the extruder or E axis) to a particular position - in my case 343mm.  Your start point will differ.


That's it!  Print it!


I didn't see anything that set the bed temp so once it start printing go into the tune menu and make sure the bed is still set for the correct temp.  Also have your fingers on the power switch if the head starts to smash into your part.




Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • Ultimaker Cura | a new interface
      We're not only trying to always make Ultimaker Cura better with the usual new features and improvements we build, but we're also trying to make it more pleasant to operate. The interface was the focus for the upcoming release, from which we would already like to present you the first glance. 
        • Like
      • 121 replies
    • "Back To The Future" using Generative Design & Investment Casting
      Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts the energy usage of the product during it’s service life.
        • Like
      • 12 replies

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!