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thickness of calibration card

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Posted · thickness of calibration card

You can use a regular piece o paper and it should be fine. Alternately, you can level the bed by eye. I usually level to the point where the nozzle is just touching it's reflection, and then back it off slightly. I like leveling by eye rather than with the card because if you're using a card or sheet of paper, you could accidentally put extra pressure on the bed and throw off the leveling process.

 

What model printer do you have? 

If it's a UM2 series printer, you want the springs about medium tight (too loose can cause issues with bed stability).


If it's an UM3 series printer, you want the front of the metal heated plate about level with the lip at the front of the base plate. If it's too high, your active leveling won't work.

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Posted · thickness of calibration card

@fbrc8-erin has some good tips (which also last longer than the calibration card), but to answer the question I believe the paper is 0.1mm right?

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Posted · thickness of calibration card

0.15 mm.

 

You can also buy some calibration things online. Bought one made of metal, selected it by mistake when buying spools, pretty useful in the end because the edges of the metal won't fold or get indents if you hit it against something by mistake, like the core or anything else, contrary to the paper calibration card.

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Posted · thickness of calibration card

yes it's 0.1mm , misured now, but why in the manuals there is written on ,place the nozzle 1 mm from the glass?

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Posted · thickness of calibration card
2 hours ago, tex said:

but why in the manuals there is written on ,place the nozzle 1 mm from the glass?

Because this is just the first step of the calibration. 

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Posted · thickness of calibration card
15 hours ago, Smithy said:

Because this is just the first step of the calibration. 

Thanks so much Smithy, it's my first time that i'm doing the manual calibration, and i was afraid this detail.

 

Thanks, i will try today

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Posted · thickness of calibration card

You are welcome!

BTW you don't need to adjust exactly to 1mm, move it just a little bit over the glass that's fine enough. I guess it is a safety feature, to avoid that the nozzle scratches the glass if the calibration is completely messed up. Therefore a two step calibration, first 1mm and then the card.

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