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Good morning. The E3d mod and fan mods have both been done to the UMO by others here, hopefully you'll hear shortly.
I've only had to repair my UMO PWM control (transistor) and am still using the original fan. That said, you might find the following post starts you in the right direction. The board sends 19V to the fan, so not all 12V fans will work. As I understand it, even in parallel, you might need to manage the voltage down.
Presuming for a second that the fans can handle the voltage, there is normally a pretty high threshold to start rotation, after which the setting can be dropped. Your post doesn't say whether you experimented with lowering the power from 91% to, say 50% once the fans were running. If they keep going and the speed lowers as requested, that would suggest that you have control of them and there is just startup to tweak.
I've only had to repair my UMO PWM control (transistor) and am still using the original fan. That said, you might find the following post starts you in the right direction. The board sends 19V to the fan, so not all 12V fans will work. As I understand it, even in parallel, you might need to manage the voltage down.
In practice, I think most computer fans can take a lot more than their rated voltage due to the simple nature of their circuits. I have a friend who pushed a computer fan to over 25v before it blew up. As for longevity, I broke the original fan that came with my printer, so I got a new 50mm fan rated for 12v. It's been working fine for a few years now.
I did notice that the motor of the 30mm hotend fan got rather toasty when given the full 19v, so I wired a few 330 ohm resistors into the fan lead to drop the voltage and thus the heat.
What I'm really worried about is how much current I can pull from this circuit before something on the main board fries. If I were to guess, maybe 1 amp? However, I wanted to double check before I killed something on an expensive control board.
Quote
Presuming for a second that the fans can handle the voltage, there is normally a pretty high threshold to start rotation, after which the setting can be dropped. Your post doesn't say whether you experimented with lowering the power from 91% to, say 50% once the fans were running. If they keep going and the speed lowers as requested, that would suggest that you have control of them and there is just startup to tweak.
That's good to know, I'm not sure if I tried that. I usually run my fans either off or 100%, but if 100% will fry a transistor, that's a good tip, thanks.
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S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
A year after the merger of Ultimaker and MakerBotQQ, we have unlocked the ability for users of our Method series printers to slice files using UltiMaker Cura. As of this release, users can find profiles for our Method and Method XL printers, as well as material profiles for ABS-R, ABS-CF, and RapidRinse. Meaning it’s now possible to use either Cura or the existing cloud-slicing software CloudPrint when printing with these printers or materials
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JohnInOttawa 104
Good morning. The E3d mod and fan mods have both been done to the UMO by others here, hopefully you'll hear shortly.
I've only had to repair my UMO PWM control (transistor) and am still using the original fan. That said, you might find the following post starts you in the right direction. The board sends 19V to the fan, so not all 12V fans will work. As I understand it, even in parallel, you might need to manage the voltage down.
Presuming for a second that the fans can handle the voltage, there is normally a pretty high threshold to start rotation, after which the setting can be dropped. Your post doesn't say whether you experimented with lowering the power from 91% to, say 50% once the fans were running. If they keep going and the speed lowers as requested, that would suggest that you have control of them and there is just startup to tweak.
Good luck
J
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the_schire 3
In practice, I think most computer fans can take a lot more than their rated voltage due to the simple nature of their circuits. I have a friend who pushed a computer fan to over 25v before it blew up. As for longevity, I broke the original fan that came with my printer, so I got a new 50mm fan rated for 12v. It's been working fine for a few years now.
I did notice that the motor of the 30mm hotend fan got rather toasty when given the full 19v, so I wired a few 330 ohm resistors into the fan lead to drop the voltage and thus the heat.
What I'm really worried about is how much current I can pull from this circuit before something on the main board fries. If I were to guess, maybe 1 amp? However, I wanted to double check before I killed something on an expensive control board.
That's good to know, I'm not sure if I tried that. I usually run my fans either off or 100%, but if 100% will fry a transistor, that's a good tip, thanks.
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