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BB Core


Ryan8696
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Hi,

 

I'm having an issue where my AA core is printing perfectly, however my BB core is printing too high and not "squishing" into the bed.

I've tried levelling manually -  but before a print the active levelling does it's thing and end up with the same problem. 

 

Is there a way that I can adjust the height of the BB nozzle independently? I want the AA core to remain at it's current height but the BB core to be lower. 

 

Thanks!

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    Hi @Ryan8696, can you explain how you have calibrated your print cores?

    During regular calibration, the Ultimaker S5 first levels print core 1 (I assume it is your AA) on different points on the bed. Then when this is done, you're asked to calibrate print core 2 once manually using a calibration card. Have you followed these steps?

     

    These should set the defined calibration for both print cores. 

    If you set automatic leveling to Always, it should also measure both print cores prior to a print. 

     

    Can you follow these steps, and let me know how it goes? 

     

    If it still doesn't work, can you shoot a short video during the automatic leveling so we can see if anything doesn't work as it should?

     

    Thanks! 

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    @Ryan8696 It doesn't matter if the printer doesn't ask to calibrate it, you can trigger the calibration from the printer yourself.

    System -> Build plate -> Manual leveling. At the end of the manual leveling it should perform the z-offset calibration.

    If you want to calibrate the x/y offset between the two print cores:

    System -> Maintenance -> Calibration -> Calibrate x/y offset.

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    Thanks - although i do the manual calibration (including the z offset calibration) but then as soon as i print something it does the auto calibration before the print - overriding the manual calibration that i've done.

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    You can (and I did over a year ago) turn off auto leveling in the menu system somewhere.

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    But the active leveling prior to the print, should not ruin your calibration. 

     

    @Ryan8696 , can you explain how you manually calibrate, incl the Z offset calibration? Are you sure you have calibrated it correctly, manually, if the first following print you do is not successful? 

     

    Secondly, could you post a video of the auto leveling that happens before your print starts, where it supposedly messes up your calibrated print cores? Perhaps we can catch something that doesn't work correctly. Thank you for your time.

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    I just follow the instructions provided by the printer (using a piece of paper in the areas where required) making sure there is "some resistance" when sliding the paper back and forth after lowering the nozzle to the bed.

    Just to clarify are you saying that the auto bed leveling should not affect on the manual z-offset calibration that I've done?

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    If you disable auto level and if you do the manual leveling with the calibration card - the two CRITICAL steps are when you level back in the rear center with the primary core and then repeat with the second core.  This is where the printer discoveres the difference in height between the two nozzles perfectly.  If you are off by a tiny bit in this procedure then the two nozzles won't be printing at the same height.

     

    If you do auto leveling then your manual leveling is ignored.

     

    It's important that the amount of friction you feel on the calibration care for the rear center leveling point is identical for both cores.  For printing the bottom layer you can be off by 0.1mm and it will probably be okay but when doing dual core print you want the two nozzles at the same height within about 0.01mm (10X more accurate).

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    Understood - thanks for your help - I'll give it a try and see how it goes! fingers crossed!

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    I can confirm, that

    On 8/1/2018 at 6:55 AM, gr5 said:

    If you do auto leveling then your manual leveling is ignored. 

    After switching to "Auto leveling - Never", both cores worked as expected: the second core was able to extrude material.

     

    (I find this behaviour somehow odd - if i do manual levelling, i want override auto levelling with intention. Anyway. Maybe a matter of taste.)

     

    Thanks @gr5 !

     

    dxp

     

    PS: For future search: z-offset, second core offset, manual levelling, auto levelling, offset calibration dual print etc.

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    Even if you always do autoleveling, manual leveling at least once per year is recommended because the more autolevel has to compensate for a crooked bottom layer the less out-of-tolerance your part will be (it will have a crooked bottom 1mm or so if the manual level is tilted by 1mm).

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    Definitely. Knowing your car is better than relying on automated I calibrated the z-offset with 4 (!) thick business cards plus calibration card under the nozzle. In the subsequent print, the nozzle was still pressed against the glass. I was baffled, because the (manual) z-offset seems to have no effect. Switching to "Auto Calibration frequency - never" was the solution.

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    ..to be continued.

     

    Well, the manually calibrated z-offset seems to be not bound to the inserted print core. When i changed the core from HardCore Solex to UM AA-0.4 the latter one was pressed against the glass, no plastic was extruded.

    Any suggestions on how to switch the print-cores and maintaining the z-offset (without manual recalibrating)?

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