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AndersK

Nylon printing problems

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Hi all

I'm having difficulties printing a nylon part using Nexeo Novamid ID 1070 (production part will be PP but I dont have such wire)

 

Main problem is to get it to stick to the bed. Have tried different print temp, bed temp, glue, without glue, different materials....

Rather thin compared to size which make me believe is the major concern, 160x50x1 mm

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Tried both brim,  raft and without extra bed adhesion (brim size varying from 0 to 12mm)

Tried bed temp varying from 60 to 115°C, the brim warps even before the geometry starts printing. The bed seems to heat up as it should

flir_20180806T102736.thumb.jpg.79995926a5dec8b42296f9cb3d0ac188.jpg

 

Print temp from 230-280°C. Printing below 260° makes the circular details fall of, almost doesnt bond at all.

High temp seems to burn the small hinges

IMG_20180806_32996.thumb.jpg.4a4b52c812b0c7a03cbdeca2363ffd24.jpgIMG_20180809_23820.thumb.jpg.d51a13aaa90695b466f64d2f142ec4b3.jpg

 

 

Printing in ABS gave good results but its too brittle for the hinges that has to be flexible 

 

Changed to Nexeo Novamid ID 1030 which gave better results when pushing the material at 200% for the first layer. Still some warping at one end and much more difficult to remove  the brim 

 

IMG_20180809_31459.thumb.jpg.8299fe55816295cecf0df92f52052a0e.jpg

 

 

Any suggestions?

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Did you try painters tape?

put the tape down a little larger than the parts brim, re-level bed.  I used isopropyl alcoholl to whip the sheen off the tape.

also I added stick glue to the tape.

after the brim is done use more tape to tape the brim down.  This is what I did before the 3dlac,

also have you tried to print only one part,  so far I have had no luck printing multiple parts.

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Thanks, I'll give that a try tomorrow. 

It is one part I'm printing, even though it looks like 4.

I actually wanted to print 3 of these for a full bed. Need a bunch of them to test  the concept (custom masking in a paint process)

 

Just started a print were the hinges are moved to the flat face, wider and higher. Means building on a bed of support material. Will see the result tomorrow.

Edited by AndersK
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I have increased the stickability of my PVA slurry by adding basic Isopropyl Alcohol to it. This cuts surface tension and makes for a really clean, thin layer of slurry that I apply with a brush.

 

Also, looking at the prints, it seems you could buffer up your brims a bit. If you are printing a slue of them, then move them close enough to share the brims and that will increase brim adhesion. They also come off as one piece and it is easier when pulling the parts from a freezer.

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So I've printed many brands of Nylon including novamid 1030 but not novamid 1070.

 

You want the bed temp as high as possible.  Nylon will be fine (won't melt) usually at least to 120C but 100C should be hot enough.  Nylon is actually easier for me than other materials because it is already somewhat flexible which is critical to avoid warping.  Nylon gets more and more flexible gradually as it gets warmer so at 100C it is quite flexible.

 

There are 3 good ways to properly create the proper pva surface on glass.  But first start over and clean the glass and get everything off of it.  Then you can use one of these 3 methods:

1) glue stick - you probably were doing it wrong - put down glue stick such that you leave bare spots on half the glass (just put down separated stripes) then use a wet tissue to spread it evenly and to remove 80% of the pva.  This will give you a good extremely thin layer of pva.

2) hair spray -  This is quite simple and hard to mess up but if you go this route remove the glass from the printer as you don't want glue in your printer particularly the Z screw.

3) slurry.  This is easiest in the long term.  Mix chunks of pva with water or mix elmers wood glue with water (1 part wood glue 10 to 30 parts water).  Shake it up well - if using solid chunks of pva let it dissove for several hours.  Use a paint brush to spread this mixture on the bed, heat the bed to 60C or hotter and by the time the temp reaches around 60C the water should evaporate leaving an almost invisible layer of wood glue.  kman (post above) adds alcohol to the slurry.

 

To understand why parts curl off the bed and all the other details (you need to squish the bottom layer into the glass hard) watch this video:

 

 

Oh!  One more thing - you can reduce warpage and improve layer bonding by covering the front and top of your UM3.  Just use a gallon ziplock for the front and a cardboard box for the top.  This will raise air temps to around 35C which will reduce shrinkage (until print is complete) and help with layer bonding and help the heated bed get up to temp faster and stay at 100C or 110C.

 

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17 hours ago, gr5 said:

1) glue stick - you probably were doing it wrong

 

Yes, I did it wrong and I stand corrected in shame 😉

 

Did another try this morning by cleaning the table and only applying tiny amounts of glue, compared to previously attempts, wiped with wet tissue. What a difference....

 

Thanks all for the other suggestions, I'll keep the other things in mind and will explore later.

 

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