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Hi Ultimakers,

Has anyone had any success with Bendlay Filament? I bought some a while back along with my LayBrick (which is awesome stuff) but I've not had any luck with it. I'm not sure what settings to use...

My first print with bendlay destroyed my fan duct because I had the heated bed at about 120 degrees, which caused my PLA fan duct to droop down until it touched the platform... That aside, I had serious issues with shrinkage. The bottom of my part bonded pretty well to my heated bed, but layers above pulled inwards as they cooled, producing an hourglass like effect to my print. I'm sorry I don't have any pictures...

In all of my attempts though, I get random blobs, and sudden flow stoppage. So far I've not gotten more than a few cm off the bed with a print before my flow through the extruder just seems to stop and the filament starts grinding and I get 'fluffy' layers. Yet, when I stop the print, lower the bed, and turn the gear by hand it extrudes just fine at the same temperature.

I tried printing at both 220 degrees and 240 and had similar results in both cases, but 240 seems to be recommended for this filament.

Also, has anyone tried Taulman T-Glase? It looks interesting, but shipping is way too high from the US and I haven't seen any European distributors carrying it yet.




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Just tried with bendlay - dimmo I did not realise that it was an ABS rather than PLA so just by chance I thought I would do a 20mm radius cylinder on BLUE TAPE which printed ok - bottom was dished, I printed at 250 and got failry good layer adhesion - I had done a 2mm thick rim with no infill - and ended up with 2 0.8mm layers separated by an air gap (I know that is what I 'asked' it to do.

As I manipulated it it dawned on me that I had printed parallel thin walls - so I bent it until it broke, which took some work. At a single 0.8mm thick it is flexible - but not what I was expecting which was more rubbery.

Turns out my first print with it was luck as a smaller part later just got no adhesion to my non printed blue tape - 4 times, which was when I did the clever thing and look it up :) ABS!

At the moment I don't intend to put in a heated platform so I will store the roll until I have!

Looks like it could be useful as a non-breakable thin clear product, but it does warp badly without a heated bed and does not like blue tape :)



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Hi guys,

I drop in my first experiences with Bendlay..

Awesome stuff i have to say. it works good with a bowden system.


Not too bendy not too hard.. and very smooth surface (ultimaker soft pla is much softer and kinda bit stickier to touch in comparison)

I used the proposed 240°C this worked fine.. (im still experimenting with Fan off or on and temp changes)

i forgot about the material density settings.. so i used PLA 1240 kg/m3 .. worked fine.

( i exeriment with this later)

I activated Raft... (also made the interface raft layers stronger.. from 0.2 to 0.4)

The best stick-trick i found was Kapton tape with a spray of acryl based fixative. (most people use hairspray instead)

Even though i recommend a HBP.. for some prints this worked even with a cold buildplate.

Heres what i used:

Lascaux Fixative


international http://www.amazon.com/Lascaux-Fixative-Aerosol-Spray-300Ml/dp/B000FE94DA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383170591&sr=8-1&keywords=lascaux+fixative

Pay attention not to spray the buildplate when it sits in the Printer.

The spraymist will go everywhere... and we dont want to know what it does to moving parts. ;)


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I've been printing a few things with Benlay recently. I printed a spindle clamp for my CNC router and some coil-form bobbins for home wound transformers. I've been printing at 250 degrees and heated bed temp of 75 degrees with a success rate was about 50%. For some reason shortly into the print it will start under-extruding and producing fluff... Yet when I stop the print and manually turn the extruder it extrudes just fine... Restarting it works great usually. In all cases the print either starts under extruding at about layer 10-15, or if it makes it past that point then it seems to go fine for the whole print.

With the heated bed I do not get any warping of the bottom of the print, but a little ways up (maybe 1.5cm off the bed) the warping forces pulled my bobbin inwards for a bit. I think a heated chamber would really benefit this stuff. It may also work if I lower the extrusion temp a little bit. All of my successful prints were done without the fan, so having a fan might help but the ones that I tried the fan on all failed with the underextrusion problem above. I turned the fan off because I thought that might be related but I don't know if it is or not... My success rate with fan was 0% and without was 50%... But I did not do extensive tests.




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tried bendlay without heated bed, confirm that it doesn't work well... wait until HB is available... or switch to TGLASE, not bendable but cristal clear. strong and print on cold kapton tape


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