I am new to this hobby and need a bit of help. I got the Ultimaker because it was rated the most accurate out of a pool of many. My prints right now are okay but they are not as gorgeous as the ones everyone displays that they printed with their Ultimaker. So here are my questions:
- Do you recommend using Cura? Is there a better program?
- Is there a guide somewhere giving detailed fixes to certain problems with a print (ex. higher temp affects aspect 1 and feed rate affects aspect 2)
- Does anyone have any helpful tips that they think could help?
- How do you get rid of the string trail the hot end drags with it everywhere when it prints.
This is also a little unrelated but I am having an issue with brown liquid plastic oozing out of the threads of my heated block and nozzle. How can I fix this?
Any response is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
4. I couldn't strings are there and you can use only different software so it won't go through printed area (I guess developer need to think about usability as one of most important parts of designing software, well I guess he missed that day on University when they talked about that ). Print3r can do it without problem !
I can't find solution for oozing (every time before I need to print I wait till it will be warm, then I taking excess from nozzle).
Of course I will propose you to create own heated bed, blue tape, kapton etc. is very unreliable and you can't print with ABS on it... And ABS is really good (almost lack of oozing).
Throw away bed from UM as it is useless, buy aluminum sheet 4mm, 250x250, drill wholes, change compression springs (provided are very weak) on something what generates more KG, then isolate aluminum sheet, add MK2A heated bed, add glass (22x22 is ok) add printed on ABS plastic holders of glass and heated bed, then use clips to mount it to aluminum bed.
Of course add relay 12/24V 40A, connect it with UM board, then power source to heated bed and relay (do not connect source of power to UM, you simple can't, those components wont' hold current (I haven't checked shield for voltage, most ATmega works with 5V))...
Change firmware on your UM so it will support heated bed....
And you're ready to go.
Add heated chamber (print some hinges for acrylic sheets and mount it)
Throw away fan case for electronic (it's some cheap china cr*** and will sound like some old tractor after 2 days), print new case, mount 50x50mm fan.
Throw away fan mount from heat end and print in ABS new one....
For printing on PLA:
- add 10 grams of PVA to some glass jar or what ever, add 100 grams of water, stir. Heat your bed to 55-60 degrees, put one layer of that mixture, after it evaporate add another (in total 4-5 layers)
Heat bed to 60 degrees, print, after you finish give it time to cooler to around 30 degrees, it will fall off without issue
For ABS
- add around 10 grams of small pieces of ABS to jar, add around 80 grams of pure Acetone (use safety glasses, gloves and respirator mask (which will stop vapor gas and other chemicals, something what has commercial grade, not some simple gas mask from nearest shop)
Heat bed to around 100 degrees, print and wait...
UM is ok but technology is very far away from being well developed...
Recommended Posts
gr5 2,295
So many questions...
I haven't had this problem. Some people say if you ignore it eventually the volatiles evaporate and you are left with a nice permanent plug. Sounds like maybe your nozzle wasn't screwed in all the way? If you try to tighten it now though you might break it. Definitely heat it to 240C before trying to screw or unscrew the nozzle and be gentle as brass isn't very strong. If it's really a problem I recommend posting a photo in a separate (new) thread.
google. Or ask in this forum.
Not sure what you mean. I'm guessing maybe you mean the first few minutes? Always print with a skirt by default. If the string doesn't come off as soon as it starts printing the skirt, your bed isn't close enough to the head.
Leveling is one of those things that takes more patience than most people (like me) give it. The first layer is critical to get squished a bit into the blue tape or it won't stick well.
If you are talking about something else then post a picture or a video maybe?
Just read everything posted here for the next 3 months and you will learn them all. Here's one: always clean fresh blue tape with rubbing alcohol (aka isopropyl alcohol found anywhere bandages are sold). This removes the non-sticky stuff (wax?) they put on there so that the tape unwraps. It makes parts stick to the blue tape so so so well!
Link to post
Share on other sites