35 minutes ago, ansonl said:Cool to see! Is the all metal heat break sticking out same length as the gold-non-all-metal heatbreak once it is inserted into the heatsink?
They are different but overall length is the same
1
I uploaded my updated DXU files and firmware instructions at https://github.com/ansonl/DXU and https://github.com/ansonl/Marlin-DXU.
2
On 12/27/2022 at 10:42 PM, ansonl said:I uploaded my updated DXU files and firmware instructions at https://github.com/ansonl/DXU and https://github.com/ansonl/Marlin-DXU.
- Marlin 2 firmware for DXU instructions and repo
- Dock adapted for UMO+ frame
- Heater clamps with 1mm thin jaws. The linked Taobao seller sells a quality all metal hotend but the heatsink flanges are only 1mm vs 2mm apart. The seller says he can do a special order of heatsinks with 2mm flange spacing with a minimum order quantity of 50 but I currently don't have a need for 50 heatsink alone!
Ansonl, check my post from may 31, 2021. that mod allows you to eliminate the heather clamps and not to worry about the fins gap. it is using/modifying the UM2+ hardware.
1
7 hours ago, Garufa said:Ansonl, check my post from may 31, 2021. that mod allows you to eliminate the heather clamps and not to worry about the fins gap. it is using/modifying the UM2+ hardware.
@Garufa, I looked back and found it - very cool. Is this listing on Thingiverse your files and instructions? It looks more durable than the original DXU design, I like the use of the Ultimaker 2 "stacked" print head design.
Is there strain relief for the temperature probe and heater cabling for when the heater block moves up and down or are the cables not breaking with constant motion in your experience?
Edited by ansonl18 hours ago, ansonl said:@Garufa, I looked back and found it - very cool. Is this listing on Thingiverse your files and instructions? It looks more durable than the original DXU design, I like the use of the Ultimaker 2 "stacked" print head design.
Is there strain relief for the temperature probe and heater cabling for when the heater block moves up and down or are the cables not breaking with constant motion in your experience?
I did modify a bit the design (check posts) of Benleo888 which is great (check his work and STL files from 2020). I had in the past errors with the heater cable because is too rigid, and I have created a mini board (similar to UM3) to have the cables connecting to a 12 pin adapter, but if you use the original cables and harness I suspect it will be more flexible. mine is working fine so far.
@Garufa I see both his post and yours and am interested in converting my original DXU to your design.
I have a few more questions after reading:
1. Is there a mechanism that holds the second moving nozzle/heater block in place so that it stays straight and doesn't "spin"? Sort of like the small set screw in the lever in original DXU touching the sanded flat portion of the metal tube. That has been the weakest part of the original DXU design for me. 50/50 times I need to adjust/change the nozzle and I strip out the polycarbonate lever screw hole or crack the lever = print and sand another one to fit. 😞
2. Are you using some sort of purposely flexible wire to connect your heater cables to your printhead board since they still move relative to the printhead? Was your cable harness setup that was previously breaking different from the cable setup in the original DXU?
3. Is the reduction in heatsink OD the only change that requires machine metal work for this mod?
4. Have you been able to get Marlin 2 working on your printer now?
I'm close to resolving an issue in the new Marlin 2.1.2 firmware that prevents the Ultimaker stepper motor drivers from operating correctly...input shaping results below
23 hours ago, ansonl said:@Garufa I see both his post and yours and am interested in converting my original DXU to your design.
I have a few more questions after reading:
1. Is there a mechanism that holds the second moving nozzle/heater block in place so that it stays straight and doesn't "spin"? Sort of like the small set screw in the lever in original DXU touching the sanded flat portion of the metal tube. That has been the weakest part of the original DXU design for me. 50/50 times I need to adjust/change the nozzle and I strip out the polycarbonate lever screw hole or crack the lever = print and sand another one to fit. 😞
2. Are you using some sort of purposely flexible wire to connect your heater cables to your printhead board since they still move relative to the printhead? Was your cable harness setup that was previously breaking different from the cable setup in the original DXU?
3. Is the reduction in heatsink OD the only change that requires machine metal work for this mod?
4. Have you been able to get Marlin 2 working on your printer now?
I'm close to resolving an issue in the new Marlin 2.1.2 firmware that prevents the Ultimaker stepper motor drivers from operating correctly...
Ansonl
1- there is not need for the screw to hold the tube or flatten the face, the heater block's screw keeps it aligned, it is centered in a hole in the aluminum assembly. The lift lever now use the top part of the tube to lift it (like UM3)
2- the wire from the heater cartridge is rigid, but a small section of flexible wire can be added to release the pressure onto the 12 pin connector - but it not a recurrent problem (is it similar to the UM3 heater's short cable) if you run your wire harness down it will provide more flexibility.
3- need to file down one of the heatsink flanges (Top only) and drill the top plate trough to allow it to "lift" and lock against the second flange from the top ; the bottom plate needs to be drilled halfway (same OD as the flanges) to let it go down further below nozzle 1. The mod I did to the (STL) bottom part of the head assembly, let you keep the spring inside and only loose one flange from the heatsink
4- I have not. I am planning to use an SKR3 EZ board I have purchased, but not ready yet until I know Marlin 2 is working well.
1
Oh I see what you mean by the heater block screw. I thought about about adding a horizontal block with a hole in the original DXU for same effect but could not find a good way to do so.
1. So if I go off Benleo888 diagram, you mean to widen the top metal UM2 part hole to fit the entire wider OD of heatsink when it moves up and down and this is due to only filing down 1 top heat sink flange instead of top 4 flanges like BenLeo888. The filing down of the original heatsink flange OD to which smaller OD? Trim off flange just enough for the spring to fit over it and rest on the next flange?
2. I assume there is not enough vertical room for heat sink to move fully up if I do not trim the top flange right? I guess widening the top metal part hole is much easier than filing away more flanges for you?
3. Does your modified block design part eliminate the need for the blue spacer part I circled in red in BenLeo888 diagram since the top side of spring will rest against the bottom of the lip you put in the block instead of spacer?
4. If you are concerned about Marlin 2 compatibility with UM2 case and cartesian linear bearing printer design, Marlin 2 works great for the last 2 years for me. I've thought about changing out the board for a fystec spyder since it has lots of motor and heater pins in the future as well.
1
On 1/8/2023 at 9:55 PM, ansonl said:Oh I see what you mean by the heater block screw. I thought about about adding a horizontal block with a hole in the original DXU for same effect but could not find a good way to do so.
1. So if I go off Benleo888 diagram, you mean to widen the top metal UM2 part hole to fit the entire wider OD of heatsink when it moves up and down and this is due to only filing down 1 top heat sink flange instead of top 4 flanges like BenLeo888. The filing down of the original heatsink flange OD to which smaller OD? Trim off flange just enough for the spring to fit over it and rest on the next flange?
2. I assume there is not enough vertical room for heat sink to move fully up if I do not trim the top flange right? I guess widening the top metal part hole is much easier than filing away more flanges for you?
3. Does your modified block design part eliminate the need for the blue spacer part I circled in red in BenLeo888 diagram since the top side of spring will rest against the bottom of the lip you put in the block instead of spacer?
4. If you are concerned about Marlin 2 compatibility with UM2 case and cartesian linear bearing printer design, Marlin 2 works great for the last 2 years for me. I've thought about changing out the board for a fystec spyder since it has lots of motor and heater pins in the future as well.
#1 - YES just file down the top flange to match flush with the O.D. of the upperpart- the spring is not longer over the heat sink - see the modified lower assembly , no need for spacer.
#2 - Correct. drill the hole to match the O.D. of the upper part. filing so many flanges I believe might compromise cooling
#3 - YES no spacer needed it is incorporated in the modified lower assembly
#5 the nozzle switching (t1 &T2) and docking position, Z height for T1 and T2, are the only parts I worry to get right
hope my notes help you
@Garufa I have gotten the improved DXU working on my UMO+. Most of my steps were the same as you and @Benleo888 described. It made sense how it worked after I printed the plastic parts in PC and moved the lever.
I extended the UM2+ fan bracket with strips of metal taped with VHB so that it can be used with the DXU, repaired the head_bottom model to be manifold, and added an adjustable BLTouch mount option to the printhead. 3D print files are at https://github.com/ansonl/DXU/. It works great so far, although overhang performance isn't the best. I'm not sure if that is due to the UM2+ fan bracket design and axial fans. I ordered some swaged heater cartridges with right angle strain relief to mitigate the issue with up/down nozzle movement.
I've also finally gotten the dual extruder changes needed for DXU merged into the main Marlin.
Mechanical switching nozzle extruder setup is merged in #24553
Automatic hotend offset adjustment for toolchange gcode merged in #25399. Now you don't need to manually offset the toolchange gcode by the target hotend offset after manually adjusting hotend offset with M218 command.
There is currently an input shaping bug with fast movement >250mm/s with AVR but if you limit the printer max feedrate to 250mm/s, it should be stable. Input shaping works well if you keep the speed under 250mm/s. You can the details at #25117.
3
Ansonl I am glad it is working for you !
I will check the latest changes to Marlin that you have mentioned here. I have ben struggling with the firmware for BTT SKR3-EZ and only today I figured out that needed to have the TMC drivers, and the temperature Sensors connected to the board so I could have USB communication via pronterface, I could not do it without; finally I am getting somewhere.
thanks for your contribution to the DXU community !
hello @yyh1002 I worked on your project I wanted to do it for a long time but mandatory commitments did not allow me to complete it, I finally managed to complete it, I wanted to ask you if you have any profiles for ultimaker cura, simplification3d or Kisslicer that I can share, i'm trying to adjust the XY axes and i seem to have succeeded the combs are well aligned, i have no idea how to do it in Z, i can't figure it out, i just adjust the nozzle via the display, after the adjustments i tried reprinting the attachment models with Polycarbonate and Pva I wanted to try to see how they would come out but I noticed that during printing I encountered a problem of non-alignment between the two prints, even if in the adjustment phase the comb models are printed perfectly Can you advise me on what could be the problem that I can't see?
Edited by dadoblu_2000CIAO @ ansonl il file head_bottom_repaired.stl quando lo carico nel mio programma slicer sembra non essere visibile, indica che le superfici sono troppo sottili, tutti gli altri modelli le caricano correttamente, inoltre è possibile avere una guida su come stampare il cartella modelli "parti master da stampare"
Edited by dadoblu_2000some slicer programs can repair the file, or select "print thin walls" - it should print OK
@dadoblu_2000 The file should be manifold. Some of the volumes are very thin which leads to slicers cutting them off. Some empty spaces in slicer output where walls are shown in the model is expected. As long as the holes are centered in the correct position and general shape maintained, the printed model will work.
@Garufa I upgraded a UM2 to BTT Octopus Pro combined with the improved DXU design and Marlin 2.
I modeled the metal hotend holder modifications needed and had the aluminum parts SLM printed and top nylon parts SLS printed.
All custom parts and Marlin firmware instructions mentioned here are now uploaded to https://github.com/ansonl/DXU
The result is very reliable after some work and needs minimal post-processing to get the lever to move. I actually ended up only using the middle SLS nylon part and using my own printed top and bottom plastic parts in PC because the SLS printed top and bottom were a bit loose around the bearing but this could be fixed with some rubber spacers to make it "thicker".
I also used the UM2 fan shroud design by Labern but the normal UM2 fan shroud works fine too. The UM2 fan shroud is actually slightly smaller in footprint and thinner material makes it much easier to attach to printhead but I already spent the money to get the Labern shroud SLM printed in the same order...
Ulticontroller I2C breakout and adapter board that I created to make Ulticontroller LCD display compatible with most 3rd party controller boards. Most controller boards don't use I2C connection for the LCD so the I2C needs to be rerouted from elsewhere on the board to the right pins in the ribbon cable. Needed to order a second pair of ribbon cables to pass through the adapter board. SD card, encoder, button, and buzzer are functional as well. I ran into an SPI communication issue with the Octopus Pro that prevented me from using the SD card reader at the same time as the second MAX31865 PT100 amplifier which also uses SPI 😞
UM2/2+ case routing and management. I modeled some 3D parts to accommodate the increased height of the new motherboard and organize the wiring. The metal UM2 motherboard cover can't be used anymore so I had to make a new motherboard cover and riser/border to mount it. A 3D printed cable trench is used for cable routing. The new motherboard cover uses most of the original holes on the case and rests on the cable trench carrying the printer with your fingers around the bottom side edges is safer.
A INA826 amplifier board for PT100/PT1000 amplification is needed for the bed temp sensor since most 3rd party controller boards don't have multiple built in amplifiers like the Ultimainboard. The Ultimainboard uses 3 INA826 amplifiers and Triangle Lab sells a similar expansion board on Aliexpress. Marlin doesn't support MAX31865 amplifier for bed header so an off-motherboard amplifier is needed for bed PT100. Octopus Pro has 1 built in MAX31865 and I used 1 additional MAX31865 that fits into the stepper driver slot. SPI issue mentioned earlier means SD card reader can't be used but I added a ESP32 loaded with ESP3D firmware to the Octopus Pro so a usb cable isn't needed for remote printing. Temp sensor cables need the MOLEX KK ends changed to JST-XH. Some of the cables are shorter than ideal but they will barely reach.
Bed heater power cables need to be modified to have eyelet ends to fit into screw-on terminals on Octopus Pro. I mounted a LRS-350-24 PSU on the opposite side of the underbody. 
Controller board cover put on
Controller board cooling fan mounted
UM2 rear view showing 2 UM2+ feeders, custom rear panel mount with IEC power connector switch and USB socket. No more wiggling the power connector risking damage to the controller board!
The printer is very quiet even at high speeds (300mm/s and 9000mm/s^2). Unlike the noisy original UM2 motors, if you don't look at the printer, you wouldn't know whether it is printing or not! The loudest parts of the printer are the high speed part cooling fan and PSU fan and they aren't noticeable in a cabinet enclosure that I have the printer in.
Marlin 2 input shaping works and the firmware is stable. I have some firmware tips on the DXU repo linked above but need to add my config in the future.
Edited by ansonl
2
Did you find that the Ultimaker board isn't able to handle the input shaping and is why you switched boards? I tried the new marlin initially but got lots of skipping and bad motor movement. Thought it was taking too much RAM on the board and was looking into this Re-ARM Controller for RAMPS (panucatt.com)
11 hours ago, 3dprntz said:Did you find that the Ultimaker board isn't able to handle the input shaping and is why you switched boards? I tried the new marlin initially but got lots of skipping and bad motor movement. Thought it was taking too much RAM on the board and was looking into this Re-ARM Controller for RAMPS (panucatt.com)
The ultimaker controller board is out atmega2560ext can handle input shaping fine. I have the old board in a UMO+ with DXU as well and it doesnt have any issues when IS is enabled. Running Marlin current bugfix as of beginning of June.
Marlin 2.1.2 and previous had a separate issue that resulted in motor skip and bad IS for AVR that ultimaker board uses. I had to reduce the tx buffer size to one or zero to stop skipped when printing over serial as well. I’m not sure if tx rx adjustment is still needed. I would recommend trying out the current bugfix branch of Marlin and seeing if it works.
I forgot to mention in my last post, Marlin now has the option to dynamically offset toolchange gcode so that toolchange gcode can be configured in the same hotend offset “context” (always T0 if enabled) and hotend offsets between nozzles can be adjusted via the UI menu in addition to M218 command.
On 6/17/2023 at 1:07 AM, ansonl said:@Garufa I upgraded a UM2 to BTT Octopus Pro combined with the improved DXU design and Marlin 2.
I modeled the metal hotend holder modifications needed and had the aluminum parts SLM printed and top nylon parts SLS printed.
All custom parts and Marlin firmware instructions mentioned here are now uploaded to https://github.com/ansonl/DXU
The result is very reliable after some work and needs minimal post-processing to get the lever to move. I actually ended up only using the middle SLS nylon part and using my own printed top and bottom plastic parts in PC because the SLS printed top and bottom were a bit loose around the bearing but this could be fixed with some rubber spacers to make it "thicker".
I also used the UM2 fan shroud design by Labern but the normal UM2 fan shroud works fine too. The UM2 fan shroud is actually slightly smaller in footprint and thinner material makes it much easier to attach to printhead but I already spent the money to get the Labern shroud SLM printed in the same order...
Ulticontroller I2C breakout and adapter board that I created to make Ulticontroller LCD display compatible with most 3rd party controller boards. Most controller boards don't use I2C connection for the LCD so the I2C needs to be rerouted from elsewhere on the board to the right pins in the ribbon cable. Needed to order a second pair of ribbon cables to pass through the adapter board. SD card, encoder, button, and buzzer are functional as well. I ran into an SPI communication issue with the Octopus Pro that prevented me from using the SD card reader at the same time as the second MAX31865 PT100 amplifier which also uses SPI 😞
UM2/2+ case routing and management. I modeled some 3D parts to accommodate the increased height of the new motherboard and organize the wiring. The metal UM2 motherboard cover can't be used anymore so I had to make a new motherboard cover and riser/border to mount it. A 3D printed cable trench is used for cable routing. The new motherboard cover uses most of the original holes on the case and rests on the cable trench carrying the printer with your fingers around the bottom side edges is safer.
A INA826 amplifier board for PT100/PT1000 amplification is needed for the bed temp sensor since most 3rd party controller boards don't have multiple built in amplifiers like the Ultimainboard. The Ultimainboard uses 3 INA826 amplifiers and Triangle Lab sells a similar expansion board on Aliexpress. Marlin doesn't support MAX31865 amplifier for bed header so an off-motherboard amplifier is needed for bed PT100. Octopus Pro has 1 built in MAX31865 and I used 1 additional MAX31865 that fits into the stepper driver slot. SPI issue mentioned earlier means SD card reader can't be used but I added a ESP32 loaded with ESP3D firmware to the Octopus Pro so a usb cable isn't needed for remote printing. Temp sensor cables need the MOLEX KK ends changed to JST-XH. Some of the cables are shorter than ideal but they will barely reach.
Bed heater power cables need to be modified to have eyelet ends to fit into screw-on terminals on Octopus Pro. I mounted a LRS-350-24 PSU on the opposite side of the underbody.
Controller board cover put on
Controller board cooling fan mounted
UM2 rear view showing 2 UM2+ feeders, custom rear panel mount with IEC power connector switch and USB socket. No more wiggling the power connector risking damage to the controller board!
The printer is very quiet even at high speeds (300mm/s and 9000mm/s^2). Unlike the noisy original UM2 motors, if you don't look at the printer, you wouldn't know whether it is printing or not! The loudest parts of the printer are the high speed part cooling fan and PSU fan and they aren't noticeable in a cabinet enclosure that I have the printer in.
Marlin 2 input shaping works and the firmware is stable. I have some firmware tips on the DXU repo linked above but need to add my config in the future.
great job and it is very clean and organized ! ! thank you for sharing it and for the DXU repo information.
1
On 12/28/2022 at 4:42 AM, ansonl said:I uploaded my updated DXU files and firmware instructions at https://github.com/ansonl/DXU and https://github.com/ansonl/Marlin-DXU.
- Marlin 2 firmware for DXU instructions and repo
- Dock adapted for UMO+ frame
- Heater clamps with 1mm thin jaws. The linked Taobao seller sells a quality all metal hotend but the heatsink flanges are only 1mm vs 2mm apart. The seller says he can do a special order of heatsinks with 2mm flange spacing with a minimum order quantity of 50 but I currently don't have a need for 50 heatsink alone!
Very nice adaption! Was printing the original before I read your post. Will be printing your parts next!
Ordered my Aliexpress items last week so until it arrives printing is all I can do 🤣
@ansonl @Garufa I made my first attempt on creating the DXUv2 with modifications but am a little stuck.
I printed the 3 top parts, lever and shaf holder etc, sanded down the hole for the heatbreak and everything fits nice. The lever lifts the heater and drops it when the spring pushes it back down.
But! How do I fasten the heater block of the moving shaft to the bottom plate to keep it in place?
Since is screwed into the bottom plate it cannot move after fastened.
What am I missing or forgetting here?
See my attached photo's for more info.
Ps. Don't mind the missing fan plate between the two plates and the rough and dirty print, it's a first iteration :)
8 hours ago, LouDFPV said:But! How do I fasten the heater block of the moving shaft to the bottom plate to keep it in place?
Since is screwed into the bottom plate it cannot move after fastened.
What am I missing or forgetting here?
Sand down the threads at the tip of the moving heater block screw so that the top portion of the screw moves freely in the hole in the bottom plate.
If it doesn't move freely enough, you can drill out the threads in the threaded hole in the bottom plate that the moving heater block screw would go into.
Your setup looks good!
1
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ansonl 19
Cool to see! Is the all metal heat break sticking out same length as the gold-non-all-metal heatbreak once it is inserted into the heatsink?
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