Swiss quality! In Switzerland, the temperature for dishwashers can be set 
It seems I can turn down temperature to 220°C without any noticeable change in stability. Except it prints better 
Using 50% fan speed, but I'm using a pretty weak fan anyways, so this probably corresponds to about 25% speed for the stock fan.
I absolutely love this material 
Will take a few pictures when I have time. Trying to print Nick Foley's E3D Integrated printhead. It's pretty much impossible to print -.-
...
No concerns around fumes. You might smell a sweet smell in the air, but the fumes of XT are very low compared to ABS and PLA.
Thanks!
@PrintedSolid: It's exactly as Jonny wrote: I have a dishwasher from a Swiss manufacturer where the temperature is specified for each program you can run.
The bottom rack usually sees a temperature at least 10 degree higher than the top rack.
Sounds like I need to get a new dishwasher to process my 3D prints. I think that makes it a business expense :-P
Hi guys,
just started printing with Colorfabb XT and therefore digging out this old thread. Seems they changed the formular. I didn´t try but printing at 220°C would be difficult, I think...
The recommended settings for an UM2 with heated bed and 0.1mm layer height are:
Speed: 50-70
Nozzle Temp: 235-240°C
HB Temp: 70°C
I used these settings for my first print and it stuck to the surface very well also the first layer looked okay, the outside also, but the top layer is really ugly. It´s not solid, with gaps and woobly. For PLA I would have increased cooling, nozzle temp and flow to compensate. Did not work for XT. What are the settings you are useing? What´s different compared to PLA? And now much heat can an UM1 hotend withstand?
Some pictures:
Thanks for your help.
Cheers,
Philip
You should be happy it happens only with XT. I have this kind of top surface with PLA :(
Correct me if Im wrong but you are using the UM2 settings on then UM1. Colorfabb recommends hotter temps for the UM1. 245 is the low end and you are below that. Try hotter.
http://learn.colorfabb.com/print-_xt/
I have a UM1 plus a heated bed. XT is difficult to get to stick to heated glass. However, add a little hairspray and bingo.
One note, use less fan than PLA. Use 100% fan seems to cause a lot of shrinkage. In fact, my fan was broken when I first started with XT and it printed fine. I'd recommend 0-40% fan,
Another note as you have already seen this. With XT, you need to keep the nozzle free of any stuck on XT from priming the nozzle as it turns brown during the print and will fall into the printed part producing ugly brown spots.
I flagged Gijs at colorfabb on this, so hopefully he'll weight in, but I think anon4321 nailed it.
Some explanation on what is happening and your obervations. I agree that for PLA you would want to increase cooling and decrease temp to resolve this, but XT is a little bit of a different beast, especially the new formula. It has a really high melt strength, so it's going to want to hold a round shape rather than spreading out like PLA does. When you're crossing the non-supported areas, it bridges well for the first layer you put down. Then when you go to later layers, instead of just spreading nicely across the previous layer, the material holds the round shape and pushes the previous material down. Going to a higher temp will make it less more liquid, so it should make it easier for the material to spread
On a side note, I'm surprised your prints are turning out that well in XT at that low of a temperature. I wonder if your calibration is a little bit on the cool side?
BTW, if you are in the US and want XT, PrintedSolid who I believe the last poster represents has it and the service was very quick. Ordered Sunday night, shipped Mon and received on Tues. I'm in PA and I believe they are in DE so that helped the shipping time but the rest was quick too.
Hi guys,
just started printing with Colorfabb XT and therefore digging out this old thread. Seems they changed the formular. I didn´t try but printing at 220°C would be difficult, I think...
The recommended settings for an UM2 with heated bed and 0.1mm layer height are:
Speed: 50-70
Nozzle Temp: 235-240°C
HB Temp: 70°C
...
Note that these are nozzle temps, not "set temperatures". Your nozzle is probably a bit colder than the measured temperature at the heater block...
Thanks for all your answers helped a lot, have been on a short holiday trip, but getting back to 3D printing now.
Didn´t do a calibration with my printer, but yes maybe I´m on the cold side. Tried the guessed settings and they worked good, but XT seems to be trickier to print with, than I thought. I did not want to go too high with temperatures because of the teflon part in the original UM1 hotend. Not sure which temperatures it can withstand for a longer time.
I choose 250°C for the nozzle, 70°C for the bed and a higher layer thickness of 0.2 and an increased flow of 150% and it worked very well. With fan turned off, it smeared like hell, so I turned it on with 12%, the slowest I can for getting it turning constantly. (I have a large cross flow fan installed, works very well, but the fan settings are of course different. Most of the time significant lower than with the small original fan.)
@anon: I took the UM2 settings because of the heated bed on my UM1, maybe I should have taken I mix up, the UM1 temps, but the UM2 heated bed temp, but we don´t know how exact and comparable our temperature readings are.
Right now I am faceing two new problems. First is sticking to the heated glas plate, I tried glue stick. In some cases it worked in others it didn´t. Soso. Will try hairspray. New problem is, one of the parts is very small and thin, 5mm in diameter and conical at the top. So everything prints fine, but the top layers are a brown blob and delaminated... Like the material overheated. Any tricks on this? I wanted to print several at a time to give each the time to cool down, but couldn´t find the option in Cura. Where the hack is it? Or has Daid removed it with some of the last updates? Right now it´s printing on at a time and starts with the new part when the first is finished...
Cheers,
Philip
Just printed a vase in XT and apart from the base leaking like a sieve it came out really well
UM 1
255°C
70°C bed
0.2 layer height
speed 50
otherwise standard settings
I use pritt stick with a brim and it stuck fine, gave up trying it with blue tape as it curled that hard it used to pull the tape off the bed.
Print several at once in cura Tools: Print all at once
In my experience at 70c it sticks good to the glass... as long as your glass is clean. I think its more of an issue compared to pla. Just to be sure wash your glass with some soap. And i usually run it under hot water for some time to make sure all the soap is gone...
I do have an issue with black spots in my print. On longer prints ( 15 hrs or so) i suspect some xt is sticking to the outside of the nozzle and carbonises. On my latest long print i had 3 black blobs in my print....
Anyone know how to prevent this?
Do you have abrasion from the belts? I have tons of the small black particles. Some of them land on the print bed. The fans, especially when they start, can blow directly at the nozzle.
So far I see the only way to deal with it is regular cleaning.
No its not from the belts.. only have it at the high temps used for xt. Not abs from the feeder either as i use my own feeder for quite some time already...
I've had that issue, too.
It happens just as you described. If some XT sticks to the nozzle, it will turn black after some time. When your print lifts or expands slightly (for example on overhangs, or when it melts a bit too much and expands) and then touches the nozzle, it will take the black gunk with it.
Make sure you clean the nozzle often (at the outside). You have to heat it up just until the material gets soft enough to tear off.
XT is a hell of a beast. Printing at 157°C nozzle temp now. Print looked good but then it broke off the build platform. Happened with all the prints afterwards... Had a plate of Tufnol from E3D for Nylon printing laying around. So I gave that one a try. Worked like a charm. XT sticks to it like hell, but is still easy to remove when it cools down. Added Tufnol to my evil tricks. Seems to work for PLA also, but have to keep the temperature high.
Hairspray on glass works well with XT too.
Tried that, but for me it did not. Don´t know why. Added 3 layers of hairspray to a cleaned glass plate and heated it up to 70°C. Tufnol worked better. Maybe you´ve got better hairsprays over there ;-).
Did use XT for the first time.
temp. 234 degrees
blue tape
from reading previous posts I turned of the fan, but that didn't work:
bottom part without, top part fan full on
Did anyone see this also?
air bubbles in the filament...
don't know if this has any effect yet..
Well, in the US, we are more self involved so we have a multitude of hair care products.
For reference it is all weather Aqua Net professional hairspray extra super hold, unscented. UPC 6799060011
http://www.pharmapacks.com/product_images/g/093/111755__73463_zoom.jpg
I'm surprised. I was getting XT to almost stick good enough to a clean glass plate. I dusted it with hairspray and had trouble removing it !!!!
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XT has recently been changed to a higher molecular weight formula that is stronger and more heat tolerant. I think there is a discussion on this in the google groups with input from Gijs.
So I'm not sure the dishwasher trick probably won't work on newer batches.
It did produce a really cool opaque white effect. Now that colored XT is on the way, it probably doesn't matter much anyways.
If you do have the older XT around, you can do the dishwasher trick if you can hit about 70C in the dishwasher.
dim3nsioneer: totally unrelated to 3D printing, but how do you know what temperature your dishwasher reaches? Have you hacked your dishwasher
or do you just have a more sophisticated dishwasher than me? All I know about mine is that it melts anything on the bottom rack!
No concerns around fumes. You might smell a sweet smell in the air, but the fumes of XT are very low compared to ABS and PLA.
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