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Posted (edited) · build plate

What should I use on top of the build plate(aluminum) mirror glass, regular window pane glass, tempered glass, very thin smooth circuit board fiberglass?

Thanks for the help.

Ctdigger

Edited by ctdigger
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    • 3 weeks later...
    Posted (edited) · build plate

    I have tried a bunch of things over the years... From expensive borosilicate glass and BuildTak surfaces, to cheap IKEA mirrors, window glass and some PCB material which is what I'm currently using.
    So, first of all, I've found the expensive products Ive tried (dedicated borosilicate glass and BuildTak) to be unimpressive... The BuildTak I tried ended up having a print stuck so well to it, that the sheet ripped and was destroyed while removing the print.
    The borosilicate glass worked fine, but was eventually destroyed when I had used too strong a glue solution on top of it, and the print tore out chunks of glass when it was removed from the glass. I've later tried cheap window glass and mirrors, and they worked just as well... Never had a window glass or mirror shatter due to heat, so I'm not sure the borosilicate properties are really needed.
    I like window glass better of the two, since its easier to find or get cut to size.
    Currently I'm using a sort of PCB material, I'm not sure exactly what, but it seems to be some sort of fibreglass/epoxy mix and has a light brown/yellowish color... 
    I got it from some guy in a FB group that was offering to cut to size and sell them rather cheap, and its the best surface I've used yet...
    I use a little bit of wood glue and water when printing PLA, and a ABS slurry when printing ABS, and the prints stick WELL! Once the print is done and the parts cooled down, I can usually pry them off, sometimes lifting a corner with a knife.
    If this proves too difficult, I remove the bulldog clips holding the plate to my heatbed and just flex it, which pops the prints right off...

    Edited by tommyph1208
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    Don't you have issues with edges of standard glass or mirrors curling up, due to the temperature differences between their upper- and bottom-sides? Standard glass has a much higher thermal expansion. Or is it more flexible, so its flexibility compensates for the curling up, and the clamps can easily keep it down?

     

    The PCB material is most likely fiberglass-filled epoxy indeed. Its natural colors usually range from brown-yellow, over pale yellow, to pale green. If the PCBs were manually cut to size, you should be able to see the glass fibers on the edges.

     

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    3 minutes ago, geert_2 said:

    Don't you have issues with edges of standard glass or mirrors curling up, due to the temperature differences between their upper- and bottom-sides? Standard glass has a much higher thermal expansion. Or is it more flexible, so its flexibility compensates for the curling up, and the clamps can easily keep it down?

     

    The PCB material is most likely fiberglass-filled epoxy indeed. Its natural colors usually range from brown-yellow, over pale yellow, to pale green. If the PCBs were manually cut to size, you should be able to see the glass fibers on the edges.

     

    Curling glass is not something I've noticed no... I used to hold it down with plenty of bulldog clips (I currently use 8 on the PCB plate)
    Regarding the PCB, I think you are right, there is definitely fibre structure when looking at the edges... I also believe the guy I bought it from sold it as epoxy-filled fibreglass pcb material... The colors you describe match very nicely as well... But seriously, can't recommend it enought. Great cheap alternative to FlexiPlate and all the other commercial flexible buildplates out there... obviously, I haven't tried them all, but hard to imagine them being much better, since I can't really find any flaws with the PCB material... Great durability too!

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    Posted (edited) · build plate

     

    On 11/20/2018 at 3:51 AM, tommyph1208 said:

    I have tried a bunch of things over the years... From expensive borosilicate glass and BuildTak surfaces, to cheap IKEA mirrors, window glass and some PCB material which is what I'm currently using.
    So, first of all, I've found the expensive products Ive tried (dedicated borosilicate glass and BuildTak) to be unimpressive... The BuildTak I tried ended up having a print stuck so well to it, that the sheet ripped and was destroyed while removing the print.
    The borosilicate glass worked fine, but was eventually destroyed when I had used too strong a glue solution on top of it, and the print tore out chunks of glass when it was removed from the glass. I've later tried cheap window glass and mirrors, and they worked just as well... Never had a window glass or mirror shatter due to heat, so I'm not sure the borosilicate properties are really needed.
    I like window glass better of the two, since its easier to find or get cut to size.
    Currently I'm using a sort of PCB material, I'm not sure exactly what, but it seems to be some sort of fibreglass/epoxy mix and has a light brown/yellowish color... 
    I got it from some guy in a FB group that was offering to cut to size and sell them rather cheap, and its the best surface I've used yet...
    I use a little bit of wood glue and water when printing PLA, and a ABS slurry when printing ABS, and the prints stick WELL! Once the print is done and the parts cooled down, I can usually pry them off, sometimes lifting a corner with a knife.
    If this proves too difficult, I remove the bulldog clips holding the plate to my heatbed and just flex it, which pops the prints right off...

     

    I have been printing with solely ABS for quite some time now. I used an ABS/Acetone mixture which gave great surface adhesion for ABS prints but was messy to deal with. I just recently discovered PEI Sheets which are a special plastic that gains adhesion properties when it is heated. Since I installed it onto my ultimaker 2+ glass plate I have had 0 adhesion problems using ABS and all you have to do before every print is wipe it with an alcohol pad. Best method by far and can find installation videos on youtube. Here is a link for where I bought my PEI sheet. Also, to get the best enclosed heating for an Ultimaker 2+ I suggest getting the front cover through ultimaker and use a large cardboard box to cover the top. P.S. when using an enclosed heating space for ABS I highly suggest turning your fans on to 20%

     

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XF3NGP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

    IMG_0930.thumb.jpg.2019dcb173c1d7df7eed74ebc186c0e3.jpg

    Edited by sfeldman
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