Non-solid infill isn't an option,
You can't put holes in the bottom? In the middle of the big flat area?
Anyway - did you use brim when printing on glass?
I also have a hard time getting my models up off the blue tape. It is a pain in the neck and I pretty much always tear it to hell and it can take a while. I'm looking forward to testing printing on glass.
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I went back to using the blue tape and added clips along the outside edge of the tape after stretching it as tight onto the acrylic surface as I could. I finally got one of the flattest prints I've been able to get using this setup.
Non-solid infill isn't an option, as the walls of this part are only 3mm thick and are required in order to maintain torsional stability. It's basically a very shallow box.
The print from the tape is on the left below. The print on glass, using PVA glue is on the right.
I'm wondering if I should have mixed the glue stronger than 3 to 1. I really liked that smooth bottom surface. I wish I could get the same print surface that I have on my CubeX because hairspray works crazy well on that surface. It seems like a ceramic surface. I printed a skull overnight on the CubeX and had a hard time removing it this morning. Unfortunately, the tolerances are too tight on this solar cell casing to switch to using the CubeX for printing them, at this point. I designed it to adjust for the print error on the Ultimaker, because I had 5 lbs. of red filament for the Ultimaker. I'd have to re-work the model measurements by trial and error to get it just right on the CubeX. Plus, the CubeX version of red is more like red-orange. Yuck.
Just for fun, here's the skull I printed overnight on the CubeX.
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