Complete heated bed kit for Ultimaker

[jason-hk 0]

HI

 

If you intent to do a future batch, an extra hole (or an option) for using 3-point bed leveling would be cool. I'd probably pick one up if it had that.

 

It already supports 3 point levelling, there are 6 extra holes on the 2 edges, there is one hole in between the UM's default screw holes on each edge, they can use for 3 point levelling.

 

[xeno 108]

@Jason

I received the kit a few days ago, I wish I waited for the glass and extras.

any chance to get the extra parts not in my kit ?

nvm, I ordered the separate kit from ebay (thealienatemywallet)

but maybe getting a longer extension cable would be nice ?

 

[drayson 75]

Your kit sounds great, unfortunately too late, as I already got mine self-sourced.

Nevertheless, the heat-sensitive sticker sounds interesting! Is there a way to get them seperately??

[tommyph1208 55]

Thanks for all the support from UM users, the first batch sold out quickly.

 

A new batch of heated bed is ready to ship now. For the new batch we increased the size of the soldering pad for the connector and now it is much tougher now. A 0.8 meter long extension cable is now included in the kit as the default cable is likely to be too short for most users.

 

We also rolled out a glass kit containing a borosilicate glass fitting the HPB and some accessories.

It contains following stuff:

 

1x Borosilicate Glass (3x220x240mm), ensure flatness.

4x Wire Clips for holding glass plate, light and very convenient to use.

4x Mini Clamp for holding glass plate, strong and sleek.

8x Silicone cushion, for protection of the heated bed when using clamp.

4x Stiffer springs (to replace the original springs) , less springy and easier to tune.

4x Metal leveling knobs.

1x Reversible heat sensitive sticker, for quick visual indication of print surface temperature. ( Turn red from black when over 55C, so ppl know when would be safe to touch)

 

Best regards,

 

Bad timing :( I already ordered and got my HB kit, but all the customs and fees and stuff means placing a new order for the glass is a bad deal for me... Should have gotten it along with the HB :(

[anon4321 16]

oh Jason! I just ordered the HBP! Would love to have also ordered the glass kit.!

 

[kitwashere 1]

HI

It already supports 3 point levelling, there are 6 extra holes on the 2 edges, there is one hole in between the UM's default screw holes on each edge, they can use for 3 point levelling.

 

Awesome, didn't notice that in the pictures. Once all that sweet tax money comes my way I will be placing an order!

 

[anon4321 16]

It is a pleasure doing business with Jason HK!

I was able to add the glass kit to my order shipping tomorrow. WOOT!

He is very responsive.

 

[tommyph1208 55]

It is a pleasure doing business with Jason HK!

I was able to add the glass kit to my order shipping tomorrow. WOOT!

He is very responsive.

 

I concur...

After I ordered two of the borosilicate glass plate kits yesterday he contacted me here on the forums to ask if there was any way that he could help me in terms of the stupid danish customs. I don't think there are, unless you do stuff that is borderline fraud, which is what I told him, but still... This is damn good customer service people!

 

[drayson 75]

I can also support this - he´s a great guy :-)

 

[discostu 0]

Has anybody recived the bed from Jason HK?

Or can someone report about it? I also want to buy one in the next few days.

[tommyph1208 55]

Has anybody recived the bed from Jason HK?Or can someone report about it? I also want to buy one in the next few days.

 

Recieved it and the glass kit (which he somehow snug past customs - Im telling you, this guy is great)

I have not installed them yet, so cant say if, and how good, they work.

Both kits seem of excellent quaility for the price though

[duesentrieb 0]

Bought it from Jason. Good quality, fair price, works great, looks good. Was also easy to install. With 12V the heating up time is a little high, but I don´t have such a beefy 24V PSU at the moment. Recomendation to buy. Shipping took two weeks to germany, no problems with customs.

Mounted it on a woodplate with 3 point levelling, but maybe I will do a 3 point levelling design especially for this heated bed. This would save 10mm printing space in Z-direction. 3-point leveling is so much better than fourpoint. If I see the first layer is not printing perfect, I adjust the bed during the print. Works very good.

 

[anon4321 16]

I just received stuff to amp the bed up to 24V. Heats up to 70c as fast as the hotend heats up to 210.

The feedback I have for Jason would be:

- longer unspliced leads

- redesign the connector to reduce how much it sticks out. on the UM1, the connector might interact with the lower side panel

- some form of insulation on the bottom.

All in all though, it's a nice kit. I'm thinking about rewiring the connector with some nice long flexible wire, getting some cork board for insulation and running the leads towards the center to address to above.

 

[discostu 0]

Great.

You have ok convinced me. I have bought a kit for myself now, too. But unfortunately, no more Glass kit was left =(. Now, I have only a heated bed without glass.

Will you offer them again? JasonHK?

[bkoh 0]

Hi Jason HK,

 

I have tried it again last night, but I was not update the firmware.

I guess that the mega 2560 in pcb is old model.

 

I also sent an email to Ultimaker yesterday, but no response.

How can I fix it to use your beautiful glass heated bed.

Please find the error message as enclosed.

 

Regards, BK from Korea

 

[martin-bienz 36]

Dear Jason HK,

This Looks great!

I just tried to order a kit. It seems you are sold out (or maybe there is another link)? Are you planing to order another Batch from the factory anytime soon?

Thanks

Martin

 

[anon4321 16]

Jason provides the relay and also has a recommended 24V PS for the kit.

However, I decided to spend lots of money and went with:

http://www.meanwell.com/search/GS280/GS280-spec.pdf (it's a monster, the UM1s PS looks like it's baby sitting next to it).

If you go with the MW PS, here is the connector you will need to use with the one installed on the PS (if you aren't going to cut it off):

http://www.newark.com/te-connectivity-amp/1-480703-0/plug-socket-housing-receptacle/dp/46F2068

and you will need four of these:

http://www.newark.com/te-connectivity-amp/350547-1/contact-pin-20-14awg-crimp/dp/01C1197?ost=350547-1&categoryId=800000006503

Just for yucks I went with a SSR and it works real well in PID mode after training:

http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=3950_0

Neither the PS or SSR even blink when heating the bed.

Yes, it's overkill but someone else water cools there stepper motors so this isn't soooo overkill.

 

[anon4321 16]

You might get a quicker response from Jason through the ebay store contact link on the right of:

http://www.ebay.com/usr/3dprinting_hk

 

[aviphysics 9]

So, are any more of those heated bed kits coming along anytime soon?

 

[rx2mazda 0]

came downstairs to this...........

whats the best way to fix this? I'm scared of melting the plastic. Take the contacts out of the connector and solder?? Thanks.

 

[jason-hk 0]

I would like to say thanks to all the guys supporting and choosing the kits.

We did not have any experience about making and delivering products previously, so all of this is a little overwhelming.

As the product roll out we made (or will make) several improvements based on user feedback.

1. the connector of the first batch tends to break off just like the post above, the latest version has much larger soldering pads to ensure strength.

2. the cable provided is too short, this may also add stress to the connector and make it break. So we will increase the length of cable.

3. the relay module has quality issue and tend to burnt, so we will replace it to a much more robust relay module which is rated for 30A and is equally easy to install.

In the coming batch of production, the Aluminium plate will be 3mm thick instead of 2mm, this will add weight but will improve the flatness consistency.

I really thank the early birds who bought this product when the first couple of batches rolled out. Your support and feedback is crucial for us to improve and continue. If users of early versions have problems please contact us for support (ebay/email).

Best regards,

 

[aviphysics 9]

came downstairs to this...........

whats the best way to fix this? I'm scared of melting the plastic. Take the contacts out of the connector and solder?? Thanks.

 

To me, the way the plug is attached looks like a week point. The way it sticks out gives the wire a lot of leverage. I would start by soldering wires directly to the pads. This would reduce the mechanical advantage. You could then solder those wires to the plug or use a different connector altogether. I would also consider using some Kapton tape or something that can take the heat to help take tension off the solder join altogether.

 

[anon4321 16]

I plan to rewiring the connector or even remove it and solder directly to the board. Then I'm going to run the wiring along the platform to a center point near the back. Finally, I need to figure out some kind of low profile cable chain that will fold up under the bed so the wiring is kept out of the way.

The idea is twofold. Get the stress off of the connection point and get any tension caused by the wiring to be in the center of the platform as near to the lead screw as possible. This way the pull of the wiring isn't likely to distort the leveling of the bed or break the connection joint. The bed of the UM is fairly easy to "bend" out of level with the slightest amount of force. I've even felt it change just from the weight of the hex driver while trying to level the front portion which is furthest from the lead screw.

If you are going to wire or rewire, try to get something like this stuff for the power:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCGKB

and this for the temp sensor:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEATJ

It's super flexible.

 

[jonnybischof 60]

...

whats the best way to fix this? I'm scared of melting the plastic. Take the contacts out of the connector and solder?? Thanks.

 

These connectors are made to be soldered. You can just take it and solder it back on the PCB. The plastic won't melt as long as you don't heat it up excessively.

But especially if you use 12V, it would make a noticeable difference to just solder the wire directly to the PCB and leave the connector away. 12V, 120W means a lot of current, and it's better to have as little components on that line as possible.

 

[jonnybischof 60]

...

and this for the temp sensor:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEATJ

It's super flexible.

 

You can use a much smaller diameter wire for the thermistor. Anything up to AWG26 (0.14mm2) will do just fine. I'd ONLY use high-flex cabling as this cable is constantly moved around, and using a shielded cable wouldn't hurt, too.

The shield would just be connected to the GND wire (thermistor cables are GND and Signal).

-> You could use a single wire, shielded cable and use the shield as the GND wire.