3D Benchy Print Issues

[JackL 0]

So I have some experience with 3D printing, doing it at my school. But recently, I got a new Ender 3, and so I'm need to learn Ultimaker Cura, which I thought would be good to use for it. In adding some basic upgrades to the printer, I thought it would be a good idea to get some benchmark using 3D Benchy. On my first print of Benchy, I saw some salmon skin artifacts, as well as some random bumps on the sides of the Benchy, and some random lines on the deck. So I installed some TL Smoothers and printed the same Gcode. On the result, most of the salmon skin was gone. However, the other problems still remained.

**SIDE VIEW: Left side is first Benchy print- notice the salmon skin near the top of the ship. Right is second Benchy print- after TL Smoothers are added. Circled in red are the random dots**

 

I'm pretty sure that I can fix the lines on the deck of Benchy by turning combing off. Please, correct me if I'm wrong.

**TOP VIEW: Left side is first Benchy print. Right is second Benchy print- after TL Smoothers are added. Circled in blue are the lines on the deck of Benchy**

 

However, I'm not really sure about the bumps on the side of Benchy though. I don't believe it's a problem with my filament because the bumps are consistent. All bumps are in the same spots, on both prints. Maybe it has something to do with the extruder doing this (circled below in BLACK) in the Gcode (attached if you want to look at it), because the areas where the dots are seems to correlate with the places in the Gcode where the extruder does this. If this is not the problem, what is? How do I fix this?

**SIDE VIEW: Random small bumps on the side of Bechy. This is the Benchy printed BEFORE TL Smoothers were added.**

**SIDE VIEW: Random small bumps on the side of Bechy. This is the Benchy printed AFTER TL Smoothers were added. THE BUMPS IN THE RIGHT IMAGE ARE ALSO FOUND ON THE FIRST BENCHY IN THE SAME PLACES, BUT I LEFT OUT THAT IMAGE OUT BECAUSE THE FIRST IMAGE ALREADY PROVES THAT THIS IS TRUE.**

 

**Below are the images from a similar Gcode (Combing off, slightly thicker walls) where this problem is still present. It's found mostly in the layers just after layer 18. What I think might be causing the problem is circled in black, though I'm not sure if it actually is the problem. The original Gcode is attached if you want to look at it.**

 

 

CCR10_3DBenchy.gcode

[gr5 2,167]

I thought someone might answer by now.  In general I get better quality if the speeds are all the same - every speedup or slowdown causes over or underextrusion and I get these bumps like this.  Also printing slower is better as then the pressure is lower in the nozzle and less likely to splurt out like this.

 

So set all 7 or so printing speeds to be 25mm/sec (I know - slow) to see if that helps.  Leave the travel speed >= 150mm/sec.  

[JackL 0]

3 hours ago, gr5 said:

I thought someone might answer by now.  In general I get better quality if the speeds are all the same - every speedup or slowdown causes over or underextrusion and I get these bumps like this.  Also printing slower is better as then the pressure is lower in the nozzle and less likely to splurt out like this.

 

So set all 7 or so printing speeds to be 25mm/sec (I know - slow) to see if that helps.  Leave the travel speed >= 150mm/sec.  

 

So I tried some of the settings you suggested, only changing the settings above 25mm/s to it and leaving the rest that were slower than 25mm/s. However, I still got the same resulting bumps, which the only difference was that they were a tiny bit smaller.

 

- Combing turned off did fix those random lines on the deck.

- I stopped the print early because the rest of Benchy isn't necessary to for this problem.

 

**Ultimaker Cura settings used. The speeds changed to 25mm/s were originally faster than that, and I left the slower speeds.**

**TOP/SIDE 1 VIEW: There are no visible lines on the top, turning combing off did work in fixing this. However, the bumps are still visible on the side.**

**SIDE VIEWS: The bumps are still present in the same locations as before, just a tiny bit smaller.**

[Smithy 1,144]

Try to set all speed settings (except travel) to the same value. As @gr5 mentioned, you will get better results if speed is the same.

[peggyb 169]

if you want to force the z seam alignment to another place, set it to 'user specified' and look for the best location, like X 0, Y 0.

[JackL 0]

6 hours ago, Smithy said:

Try to set all speed settings (except travel) to the same value. As @gr5 mentioned, you will get better results if speed is the same.

I tried changing the settings to all at 25mm/s and I still ended up with the same results in the images from before.

[JackL 0]

5 hours ago, peggyb said:

if you want to force the z seam alignment to another place, set it to 'user specified' and look for the best location, like X 0, Y 0.

So I tried doing this and ended up with all the dots on one side, which makes it seem like it is the transition to the outer layer that causes the dots. However, that also raises the question, why does it happen to some layers and not others?

[peggyb 169]

with the coordinates you should look for the spot that the z seam will happen in the (back) corner. 

 

[escknx 0]

On 1/3/2019 at 12:41 PM, JackL said:

So I tried doing this and ended up with all the dots on one side, which makes it seem like it is the transition to the outer layer that causes the dots. However, that also raises the question, why does it happen to some layers and not others?

 

So have you fixed the issue? I have same artifacts on Benchy only using Cura. I use Railcore2 with Bondtech + v6. I'm not the only one who has issues w Cura+Benchy on our Railcore forums and no one has a clue.

[Mitchell2k 0]

Does anyone know why this would happen on my benchy? The rest is practically perfect but on small extrusion areas, it seems to be weak. I have retraction at 1.5mm and when it reverts, I increase by 0.2mm^3. Doesnt seem to be better.

 

Any help is appreciated.

 

Cheers guys...

[rzepa10 0]

On 6/7/2020 at 12:05 AM, Mitchell2k said:

Does anyone know why this would happen on my benchy? The rest is practically perfect but on small extrusion areas, it seems to be weak. I have retraction at 1.5mm and when it reverts, I increase by 0.2mm^3. Doesnt seem to be better.

 

Any help is appreciated.

 

Cheers guys...

You had this multiple time or only once and exactly in the same place?

It look like some part of your filament was bad.

[Hovidjian 0]

I am having problems with the walls. If I do cube on vase mode though, comes very clean. I think it has to do with layer change. Tried different materials and same. Calibrated my steps, cleaned and regressed the rails and rods. Flow and retraction calibration. Same results with no retraction.

Any suggestions please.

[gr5 2,167]

@Hovidjian - usually those lines are caused by Z axis issues and cleaning the Z screw(s) will fix it but the cube looks much better.    What kind of printer do you have.

 

Make sure you have "Z hop" turned off in cura.  I've seen this issue recently on the forum where z-hop was enabled by default.  It should not be enabled for 99% of printers.

[Hovidjian 0]

@gr5 - I have creatbot f430, used be great but recently it started doing this.

I have cleaned the all the axis. X and Y feels little sticky though.

Part came out worse without Z hop. I have it at 0.2 mm all the time

I had some dust issues last week in the room of the printer, so I'm guessing the bearings need to be cleaned. Tough job though.

[gr5 2,167]

Yeah turn off zhop for sure.  The issue you are having is inconsistent movement in the Z axis.  Assuming 0.2mm then if the Z axis returns to the wrong position by .02 (0.02 - that's not a typo - that's 1/5th the thickness of paper) then it will over or underextrude by 10% which is enough to notice as it will show as horizontal lines in the part.

 

Z hop should only be used by delta printers since they don't have a Z axis so it doesn't hurt.  And super expensive printers that use amazing, expensive Z screws and nuts that cost more than my entire printer.

 

Typically Z screws are triple helixes (like dna but one more) so you if you clean out all the gunk in the z axis make sure you get all three threads.  This may improve your prints a little but getting rid of z hop should improve much more.

 

It might also help to add a heavy weight like a brick to your Z axis so there is less play.

 

[YTrakas 0]

Hello, try to turn on equalize filament flow and maybe bring up retraction settings a bit. This will retract filament through the nozzle and will less likely cause blobbing. And equalize filament flow will make sure that all lines throughout the whole print get the same line thickness. Good luck!

[mcmuffin6o 3]

Y'all should probably create new posts for separate problems that you are having, but to the original poster: try setting up linear advance. It's a bit of a learning curve to figure out how to build it into the firmware, but teaching tech has a really good video on it. Also, this other of his goes into better depth on how to build custom firmware. Best of luck!

[Benchypurgatory 0]

Novice printer enthusiast here. I’m trying to diagnose this benchy and fine-tune my Ender 3 V2. Previously had the hotend at 210, but switched mid-print to 205.

 

Also, upgraded the bed springs, installed JyersUI w/ BLtouch 10x10 mesh.

 

Does anyone have any input?

 

Thank you in advance.

CE3_3DBenchy.3mf

[GregValiant 1,248]

I'm not real fond of that profile.  For one thing, the 200% line width on the first layer can cause adhesion problems and jst looks crappy as well.  If you look at the bottom of that Benchy you will see that the iindividual extrusions aren't welded together.

Here is another way to print that.  I've moved the Zseam to the back left and set the temp to 205 as that photo does make it look like the filament didn't like 210 (210 is my normal print temp for PLA).  I'm also sticking in a calibration shape I made.  It isn't better (or worse), just different.

GV_3DBenchy.3mf GV_CalibrationShape.stl