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Quick question...bed to nozzle...


LePaul

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Posted · Quick question...bed to nozzle...

Yeah, the Eiffel Tower requires your retraction to be dialed in well. Print a couple hollow pyramid calibration cubes/pyramids to get your retraction where you want it before attempting unless you are extremely confident and ambitious! Yoda is a fun one to print that doesn't require a lot of work to print well aside from getting your temp settings close (important for retraction as well) and it can be printed without infill and 3 perimeters.

 

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    Posted · Quick question...bed to nozzle...

    If you are getting stringing on the eifel tower just slow down the print. Make the decision that you can wait a few more hours. I recommend layer height .2mm and 50mm/sec max to avoid stringing. And keep the temp low - no higher than 220C. 200C might be better. And at those cold temps I might go down to 30mm/sec. If layer height is .1mm then you can go twice as fast of course (60-100mm/sec) - the whole issue is keeping the pressure in the nozzle low so when it stops extruding you don't get leakage/stringing.

     

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    Posted · Quick question...bed to nozzle...

    You brought up a good topic, perhaps its covered in the Wiki or another thread...

    For printing bigger items, what temps, rates, etc are the best to use?

    More of my Ultimaker Printing 101 education :)

     

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    Posted · Quick question...bed to nozzle...

    For the most part, the printer doesn't care what the size is of the object that you are printing. It's all just more or less moments of extrusion. Whatever the size, the key is to ensure that you aren't asking the extruder to push more plastic per second than it can sustain - which is about 10mm³ per second. And then, depending on the object geometry - the angle and amount of overhangs; the number of separate islands, the need for retraction, and the amount that the filament will advance between retractions; the amount of bridging - you need to adjust your other settings accordingly.

    The larger the object of course, the longer it will take to print, ceteris paribus. And so the more likely you might be to go more for speed over quality, in order to get a result in a sane time frame. But the actual performance and requirements of the printer won't really vary depending on the size of the object.

    Bear in mind though, that larger objects will usually be viewed from further away, and so you can probably get away with thicker layers and lower quality in absolute terms than for a very small object that will be closely inspected.

     

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    Posted · Quick question...bed to nozzle...

    I'd rather wait until you have problems before explaining how to fix them. That way you will remember the answers better. If you want to know more just read every question and answer on this forum. Subscribe to the google groups ultimaker group also.

    I can tell you things you will run into if you want to search for issues and answers now until when it happens:

    Part not sticking to tape

    tape not sticking to bed

    underextrusion aka holes in top of print, or holes in side of print

    insufficient cooling

    warping

    stringing

    clogged nozzle

    min or max temp error

    infill not touching sides

     

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    Posted · Quick question...bed to nozzle...

    You could write a small manual with those topics you mentioned!

    So far getting the part off the tape has been the trickiest for me. The scaper I bought does the job a bit too good...it'll take the tape too. Using the canned air/CO2 duster to chill the part helps a lot.

    I made another owl and when trying to remove some tape residue from the bottom, peeled off the bottom layer. Opps!

    What would you gents suggest for test prints for a newbie to move up from? Someone mentioned pyramids and some other things before moving into big stuff.

    I also meant to ask...how do you remove the PLA to change out to a different spool? Just tug it out? I thought I would check if there was a best practices/best process for doing so.

    Thanks for all your help. I'm enjoying the small steps/progress I'm making. I'm really curious about using ABS for some stuff in the future, but with that needing a heated bed and so on, I'll keep learning with PLA for now

     

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    Posted · Quick question...bed to nozzle...

    1) Good about the tape. I assume this means you used isopropyl alcohol. Either that or by the time you do the 3rd print the tape is getting sticky. If you rip the tape obviously you just put down new tape on the areas that you rip. To get the tape off the PLA soak it in a puddle of isopropyl alcohol for 5 minutes and then it just slips off.

    2) The pyramid is just to get stringing down to minimal. It's a good test peice before printing eifel tower. The tower will have thousands of strings if you don't print it right. More details on stringing experiments here:

    http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

     

    3) To change plastic, heat up the head to 180C (or hotter but 180C is fine). Then release the extruder and pull out the filament. Sometimes I forget and the head is cooling and is down to 150C and I pull nice and hard and it pulls out more plastic than if I pull it out normally so there is less in the head when you put the new filament in. You will need to prime the head with the new filament. For that try 240C. Or at least more than 180C. This is a good time to feel the pressure - turn the gear slowly and watch filament come out and at the same time set the temp to 240 after being at 180 and watch the relationship between temperature and viscosity (180C is like toothpaste, 240C is like honey).

    4) Don't do ABS yet. lol. If you print anything larger than 2 inches in X or Y you will probably need a heated bed. Plus I hear that ABS clogs your nozzle real easy if you print too hot. Clogged nozzles aren't fun.

     

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    Posted · Quick question...bed to nozzle...

    I've been following the threads on ABS and I agree...seems like something to wait a bit longer on and see what the Ultimaker teams comes up with for a heated platform, etc

    Is there a domestic source for the PLA Ultimaker sells?

     

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    Posted · Quick question...bed to nozzle...

    Google it and you will find the answers about PLA - there are great summaries out there on all the wonderful and crappy PLA out there.

     

    I use printbl.com and they have very good quality.

     

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    Posted · Quick question...bed to nozzle...

    Thanks for that.....they have a glow in the dark that looks interesting too!

     

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