S5 Glassplate chipping with ABS

[V3DPrinting 11]

Dear community members

 

I have an S5 for 3 months or so and I'm suddenly facing issues with the glass plate chipping when printing with modified ABS (FormFutura Titan X).

I print on 2 Ultimaker 3 Extended for more than a year and know that PETG is prone to do that sort of damages. Mainly if the first layer is too squished.

 

I print on the plate with a very thin layer of 3D Lac (not Dimafix) with a moderately hot bed : 80°C (minimum temp according to FormFutura guidelines). First layer is not squished at all.

 

The print finished yesterday around 10 pm and I removed it today at 10 am. So it was at room temp.

I had some slices of glass chipped off the build plate. Here's a picture, though not easy to take.

 

I had the same issues yesterday with the same material, but different parts and using the other side of the plate.

 

As the adhesion is moderate with 3D Lac, I suspect that the build plate have some flaws / quality issues.

 

Thanks for your feedback

David

[V3DPrinting 11]

In addition, finishing the print run, I had another time the same chipping issue.

Hopefully it was on the same glassplate. So now it is really dead on both sides.

 

Has someone had the same issues with the S5 glass plates ?

[kmanstudios 1,120]

I have not. I use a PVA slurry that can be dissolved. If frozen, will cut loose.

 

I have chipped glass with PLA.

 

So, I am thinking it should not be the glass.

[V3DPrinting 11]

Hi Kman

 

Being a service provider, PVA is a PITA to manage (application, removal) so I use sprays mostly.

 

Printing ABS with PVA doesn't make the trick, generally I go with Dimafix, but for that specific grade 3D Lac is sufficient.

 

I use glass plates from my local supplier on a Mankati Full-scale XT Plus, 4mm heat tempered glass made to measures, without chipping issues so far.

 

What's why I'm wondering if there isn't an issue with the genuine Ultimaker S5 glass plate....

 

BTW it would have been good to have the aluminium build plate.

 

Edited March 12, 2019 by V3DPrinting

[kmanstudios 1,120]

1 hour ago, V3DPrinting said:

Printing ABS with PVA doesn't make the trick

This I get. But I did not make clear that point or that it was just a thought of having something that would provide for a barrier. :)

 

 

[V3DPrinting 11]

Sorry I clarify my point.

Printing ABS with PVA doesn't work well for warping, not consistent compared to Dimafix spray.

 

[Shadowman 53]

3 hours ago, V3DPrinting said:

Hi Kman

 

Being a service provider, PVA is a PITA to manage (application, removal) so I use sprays mostly.

 

Printing ABS with PVA doesn't make the trick, generally I go with Dimafix, but for that specific grade 3D Lac is sufficient.

 

I use glass plates from my local supplier on a Mankati Full-scale XT Plus, 4mm heat tempered glass made to measures, without chipping issues so far.

 

What's why I'm wondering if there isn't an issue with the genuine Ultimaker S5 glass plate....

 

BTW it would have been good to have the aluminium build plate.

 

I mean not to throw a random punch; and yet.

 

Your issue is a great example of what the aluminum build plate was solicited to eliminate.

 

Takes care 

[MitchL 0]

I'm having this exact same issue on my S5, though I am printing polycarbonate.   Lots and lots of polycarbonate.

 

I never use tools to remove parts from the build plate, I just wait until the part cools and it detaches itself.  The shear force of cooling must be hard on the borosilicate.  

 

The part below was a 13-hour job consuming most of the build plate, so the bed was at high temperature for a long time.  I use school glue for adhesion (since this is polycarb) and in general the part's pretty well stuck onto the plate until the bed cools.

 

I need to stock up on build plates I suppose!

 

(by the way, weren't we supposed to get aluminum plates a long time ago?)

 

You can see the divot below and also the piece of glass embedded in the printed part, which is kind of cool when you think of it.

 

/Mitch.

 

[V3DPrinting 11]

38 minutes ago, MitchL said:

I need to stock up on build plates I suppose!

 

(by the way, weren't we supposed to get aluminum plates a long time ago?)

 

 

Yes aluminium plate would have been great ! But the project was cancelled at Ultimaker, so we would get an extra glass plate.

 

I am thinking of having some glass plates done by my local supplier for my S5.

It's not cheaper, but I suspect quality is better as far as I can see on my Mankati.

[NBull 14]

I have the same issue when printing PC. So I do understand why Ultimaker cancelled the aluminium plate, they make a lot more money of us with all the glass plates we have to replace. 😉

[Smithy 1,144]

It is an old thread, but it happens to me too. 

Printed UM ABS with 3DLac and chipped on side of the glass. Today I printed again UM ABS with Magigoo instead of 3DLac and now chipped the other side.

 

So next time I will print with the adhesion sheets to protect my glass.

[Travis7s 25]

Also be careful with CPE+, if you don't apply enough glue it chips very easily. It seems like things that need a high plate temp make it more susceptible. (CPE+ and polycarb default is 107C!)

[V3DPrinting 11]

I have managed to print FormFutura TitanX (ABS) on my S5 without any glass chipping, consistently using Dimafix.

If you spray a thick layer of Dimafix on the glass plate, it will protect it and while hot provide the right amount of adhesion.

 

It also works fine with PC and CPE+

 

For CPE, I still use 3D Lac, but the bed leveling has improved in the last FW version and I nearly don't have anymore first layer too squished on the build plate. Which is the cause of the chipping with CPE.

 

[geert_2 557]

A few years ago there have been discussions among people using ceramic plates or tiles instead of glass? I don't know if that has been developed further, and if it could be a solution?

[MattTailor 0]

I'm having lots of issues of glass chipping while printing ABS as well. Material is standard Ultimaker ABS.

 

 

I'm using a pretty thick layer of Magigoo glue, but the prints are very difficult to remove and there's always glass shards on the larger parts. Have tried removing them with lots of water (both cold and warm) but there's still a loud "snap" when the part rips off the glass.

 

Will try DimaFix (and also a Tesa Easy Stick we have laying around) to see if that helps. We're burning through glass plates like there's no tomorrow as we're printing many ABS parts right now.

 

 

[V3DPrinting 11]

59 minutes ago, MattTailor said:

I'm having lots of issues of glass chipping while printing ABS as well. Material is standard Ultimaker ABS.

Hi Matt

Since my last post on this topic, the issue has been resolved for FormFutura ABS grade using Dimafix on the standard S5 glass plate.

You need to apply a regular medium thick layer of Dimafix and a hotbed at 80°C or more

When the print is finished and the glass plate cooled down to 45 - 50 °C it starts to pop up easily.

 

Be careful of your first layer height. Check that your print cores springs are at the right value (approx 900g to start moving the core when pressing it by the mount on a scale). If it's too weak then your first layer would be too thin.

 

[Smithy 1,144]

I also have good experiences with Dimafix and I tried a lot. 

 

[V3DPrinting 11]

33 minutes ago, Smithy said:

I also have good experiences with Dimafix and I tried a lot. 

 

I prefer the spray rather than the pen because the layer is more uniform. The drawback is that you need a well vent room to apply.

The pen is very good for small surfaces or touch up.

[Smithy 1,144]

I have both, but prefer the pen, because I can apply it in the printer without taking out the glass. But you are right, the layer is more uniform with the spray.