Food safe

[Kerat 2]

Hello community, 

 

I have a request from a client, who wishes to create molds that will be used to make chocolate in different shapes and sizes.

 

My question is, if I use Ultimaker's PC filament, and then pour the chocolate directly in the mold, will the filament in any way interfere with the chocolate? Is there a chance that the high temperature of the molten chocolate will slightly melt the mold, and make pieces of filament remain attached to the chocolate? 

 

Even if that doesn't happen, and the PC will not deteriorate in any way, is this whole process food safe? meaning that is there a risk of contamination of any kind?

 

From what I've searched online, the average melting point of chocolate is 30-35 degrees Celsius.

 

Also, if you would, can you recommend the best filament to use in this case? The safest. most food friendly that comes to mind?

 

Thank you in advance!

 

[geert_2 558]

The biggest problem will be the layer lines and the little pockets of entrapped air. These will make the chocolate mechanically stuck, thus hard to remove. And they make the mould difficult to clean, and thus promote bacterial growth.

 

So, if I had to do this for myself, I would select a material that can be post-processed very well, and that can be smoothed very well. And it should be temperature resistant up to at least 80°C. Probably I would try ABS, even though that gives of chemical fumes while printing. But when cold, it should be chemically stable. Lots of kitchen stuff are in ABS, like egg-cups, citrus presses.

 

And ABS can be smoothed very well with acetone, into a really glossy finish without layer lines or openings at all. PLA won't be heat-resistant enough and is more difficult to smooth.

 

Alternate solution: print the negative of the mould (thus make a mould of the mould), carefully smooth and post-process that, and then make a silicone mould to pour the chocolate into. Silicone is chemically inert, food-safe, heat-resistant, very flexible (easy to remove the chocolate), non-stick.

 

[NBull 14]

Do to the same problems mentioned by Geert. I would say it's where food impractical.

 

Another solution may also be to make a vacuum pull over the 3D printed part. its not as heat heat-resistant but at 30-35c i think it will be okay.

[Kerat 2]

Thank you for advices, i will try what you said guys.

 

[yellowshark 153]

Err is this fun or business? I am not an expert on this but if it is business then you need certification, at least in the USA. Plastics need to be food safe and one/some of Taulman nylons is/are certified by the FDA. Details on their website; there may be others, I am only aware of Taulman

[Torgeir 259]

Hi folks and yellowshark,

 

I just started printing with nylon four weeks ago.. And the one I selected was Taulman "Bridge" Nylon. But, there is one other brand of nylon from Taulman, the only one food approved from Taulman: Nylon 680! The two other in here is not FDA approved. However, if you want to use 680, you have to testify that your printer is compatible to this requirement (FDA)!!! In addition..      

Is not this one easy (??) The printing temperature can go to close 260 deg. C? I'll say yes, most of the problem (bacterias) should be gone (the one we knows about) and cannot survive a temperature of 250 deg Celsius..

This is what I'm thinking, but you've always have to make sure, you know..

Nylon is a fantastic kind of plastic, if you need something super strong, this is the material for you...

As far as I could see, the Taulman Bridge is very close to the Ultimaker type of nylon, in specification wise, however my UM2 "kind" printed nylon very well.. In spit of giving some surprise on the way,  -but this is another story.. 🙂

 

If you need FDA approved nylon; print with 100% infill, and make sure to have a good fusion temperature set. Look at the product from  Taulman, -a great product with "honest" specification.

 

Print with the right fusion temperature, I used 256 deg. C. at the nozzle. No fan, at all -and bed at 75 deg C.

The result of this was OUTSTANDING..

 

So, in my opinion, Taulman is the product to investigate -closely.

 

And, an Ultimaker UM2 CAN print Nylon if you want to, and do prepare it to do..

 

Conclusion, Tauluman Nylon 680 filament is the way to go if you'll need "kind of" or a FDA approach.

 

Here's  a link to Tauluman 680:

 

http://taulman3d.com/nylon-680-spec.html

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

 

[NBull 14]

Here's a link that answers a lot of your questions in depth. And at the bottom there's also a list of FDA approved materials

 

https://formlabs.com/blog/guide-to-food-safe-3d-printing/

[kmanstudios 1,120]

I printed some 'half prints' (flat on one side and sculpted on the other) to make vacuum formed molds and sent them to my nephew to make chocolates out of.

 

The vacuum formed molds worked well. The more flexible material (I have to look up the type as I tried several types of plastic Vacuum Form sheets worked best.

 

So, the idea of making a mold positive (3D printed) to make a mold negative is the best way to get around any issues.

 

Although a filament may be food safe, it cannot be guaranteed to print food safe. Is the feeder system sterile? Is the nozzle contaminated by any external source? That list can go on, but also, as mentioned above, the FDM (really any printing method) will introduce air pockets, rough surfaces and various hollow spaces/cavities that can create a lot of issues.

 

As for smoothing something with acetone will probably produce a suitably smooth surface, I am not so sure I would be comfortable using the finished product. I would not do it for my personal usage and therefore certainly would not do it for others to use for consumption.

[WesleyE 14]

I've tried this myself by building a positive mold, then creating a food save negative from silicone. However, the surface was too rough for the chocolate to become nice and shiny. I did not yet try to smooth out the printed part, it's on my big list of things to try 🙂