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LePaul

Evaluate my print (IKEA LED HOLDER)

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These strands are support material. I guess the default/quick mode adds these by default when it detects evil overhang :) I'd suggest that you _never_ use the quick mode and go for the full settings. There is so much stuff that you can change, especially when you want high(er) quality prints.

By the way, I added the IKEA Dioder led strips just yesterday to my printer. I printed the same models but ditched them afterwards because on the left/right sides the sliding blocks were hitting the lower area of the long part. Turns out it was a user error. Check out the comments on thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:130530/#comments

I printed these instead:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:88190

Now I can mount all four led bars.

 

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50 is fine. I would try 50 at 200° (maybe 205°).

Right now I am printing the famous trilobite at speed 40 and temperature 190°:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28259

Besides the IKEA Dioder holder ist a - I call these kind of objects "duty parts" and doesn't need to be perfect. It should do its job. I usually start to get picky about quality for stuff I want to give away or that I use daily (like the iPhone stand).

 

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1) Your initial problem was you simply had support turned on.

Now you should turn on .8mm thick shell thickness (minimum 1.2 possibly but .8 should be fine).

Also .4mm top/bottom thickness.

Also - and this is the key here! - go to expert settings and check "solid infill top" as well as bottom. I think maybe you left off the top. Or maybe your print didn't finish.

2) You are now also underextruding a bit. Tighten the screw on your extruder a few turns. The spring should be compressed to around 11 to 11.5mm. You are printing at a moderate speed that should not experience underextrusion. You can fix this by slowing down another 30% but you should be able to print easily at 50mm/sec .2mm layers and 200C or hotter. Which seems like that is what you are doing. So your extruder isn't pushing hard enough. Most likely you need to tighten that spring. If that doesn't help send us a photo of your extruder in closed position. It should be able to pull 22 pounds on the filament before slipping.

 

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Thanks for those tips

At the lower temps (190) I see no flow...warm it up, I do.

I had a zip tie on the extruder clamp/spring to make it tighter and removed it to see if it was needed...not sure it is but i will put it back on. It seemed to be helping

Got home really late tonight so tomorrow I'll remove the acrylic plate and unscrew those mount screws, This time washers on the bottom and top :)

 

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I have tightened the extruder to the 11mm distance.

I have removed the silver PLA and put in the nice blue stuff I bought with the kit.

When I pre-heat the PLA, it flows

When I try to do a sample part (robot) to check things out, I can see the distance to bed is a bit too high...but no material is flowing.

So it looks like I am stuck back at the basics, bed leveling and now getting the PLA to flow properly on even the basic robot test print.

 

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The extruder is not locked - this is intentional right?

Also on one of the previous images the springs for the acrylic plate are at an odd angle. You could add a wide washer beneath the springs so it doesn't push on one of the nuts and possible slip up or down when the machine vibrates.

 

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No! Good !

I wasn't fully pressed in (re-watched the video)

Also, when I feed in the PLA, its a struggle to get past that coupler!

Now I thought I would tighten belts while I had the tools handy My test print is all shifting to the left side. Checking the X pulley now

 

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