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I recently 'fixed' my destroyed nozzle by grinding it down until the flaw went away, and then angled in the edges. Additionally I polished the surface to an almost mirror finish. Now my broken nozzle prints ever so slightly better than the original one. (at least at 0.06mm) haven't tried anything else yet.
Left (original) Right (fixed nozzle)
The only problem is my fan is too close to the build plate now since I loose a few mm grinding the nozzle down. but it works!
I sanded it down with fine sandpaper, then used my amazing machining skills with a drill and a pair of tweezers to cut the brass at an angle. You aren't kidding the brass is soft when chinese pot metal tweezers can lathe it.
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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valcrow 144
I recently 'fixed' my destroyed nozzle by grinding it down until the flaw went away, and then angled in the edges. Additionally I polished the surface to an almost mirror finish. Now my broken nozzle prints ever so slightly better than the original one. (at least at 0.06mm) haven't tried anything else yet.
Left (original) Right (fixed nozzle)
The only problem is my fan is too close to the build plate now since I loose a few mm grinding the nozzle down. but it works!
I sanded it down with fine sandpaper, then used my amazing machining skills with a drill and a pair of tweezers to cut the brass at an angle. You aren't kidding the brass is soft when chinese pot metal tweezers can lathe it.
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