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Heated bed for the Ultimaker 1

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hey if anyone has had any of the problems that i posted about earlier this week on this thread,

please post any solutions that you have. This is a problem if it happens during a print, because it is just a waste of plastic.

again.... love this thing to death! I just want to make it work correctly

 

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.... features of my solution that I'm going to miss like the redundant over-heat cut-off sensors and the led light that indicates when the bed is hot (even with power off)...

 

How have yopu managed this additional features? I would be especially interested in the LED heat indicator...

b.r.

chris aka drason

 

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hey if anyone has had any of the problems that i posted about earlier this week on this thread,

please post any solutions that you have. This is a problem if it happens during a print, because it is just a waste of plastic.

again.... love this thing to death! I just want to make it work correctly

 

I just finished installing the upgrade last night and updated the firmware. I haven't actually had a chance to run a print on it yet as it was getting late, I'll be playing with it tonight though so I'll let you know how I get on. I'm running a rev4 Ultimaker with v1.5.7 electronics for reference.

 

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How have yopu managed this additional features? I would be especially interested in the LED heat indicator...

b.r.

chris aka drason

 

Hi Drayson,

The temp sensor ports on the Ultimaker are all designed to work with thermocouples, which require a thermocouple amplifier to work. That's the little board with the blue light on it on the top of the print head (on the UM1 at least...). I just used a thermistor for the temperture sensor instead, but I took advantage of the +5v power supply for the TC amp on the connector to charge a small 1F SuperCapacitor on a little board under my heated bed. I ran this through a resistor and a 35 degree bimetal thermal switch to an LED. Thus when the bed is above 35 degrees the switch closes, causing the LED to light. When the machine is powered off the supercapacitor holds enough charge to keep the LED lit for nearly an hour, but of course the bed cool off much faster than that.

My bed itself is heated by 2 x 150 watt AC heating elements powered direct from the wall and swtiched through a solid state relay. The Heating elements are in series so if either of them fail they both will stop. There are two normally closed thermal 110 degree thermal switches positioned on each side of heated bed that are in series with the elements so that if either of them get above 110 degrees the power is cut.

Cheers,

Troy.

 

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After installing the heat bed kit from Ultimaker, and upgrading the firmware (cura 14.09) to original plus, I got an error. after a new try I got a time out and on my controller the menu disappeared. I uninstalled the heatbed, but there is still no menu on the controller. Any idea what to do now?

 

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I had no problems. But i i use the Ultimaker Original firmware. After that you have to choose your upgrades.

If i understand it in the right way the Ultimaker original plus is the new Ultimaker Original with the new electronic and the heatbed included.

 

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After installing the heat bed kit from Ultimaker, and upgrading the firmware (cura 14.09) to original plus, I got an error. after a new try I got a time out and on my controller the menu disappeared. I uninstalled the heatbed, but there is still no menu on the controller. Any idea what to do now?

 

As Zungara say, you installed the wrong firmware. You want the "Ultimaker Original" and then "Heated bed upgrade" box ticked. The Ultimaker Original Plus has different electronics and needs a different firmware. (And the Ulticontroller is exactly one of these things where there are differences between these boards)

 

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In my experience, you will need to remove the Arduino from the printer. Then try flashing through Cura. If that doesn't work, you will need to flash through the Arduino IDE. If you have to fall back to the Arduino IDE, follow this information: <a data-ipb="nomediaparse" data-cke-saved-href="http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6008-ultimaker-dead-after-installing-heated-bed/?p=70324%20to%20build%20the%20basic%20firmware.%20%C2%A0NOTE%20however%20you%20don" href="http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6008-ultimaker-dead-after-installing-heated-bed/?p=70324%20to%20build%20the%20basic%20firmware.%20%C2%A0NOTE%20however%20you%20don" t%20need%20to%20rebuild%20the%20firmware%20for%20the%20bed%20so%20stop%20before%20that%20point.%20%c2%a0%20once%20you%20reinstall%20the%20arduino%20in%20the%20printer%20and%20the%20basic%20firmware%20is%20running,%20you%20should%20be%20able%20to%20use%20cura%20to%20flash%20the%20correct%20firmware%20noted%20above."="">http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6008-ultimaker-dead-after-installing-heated-bed/?p=70324

to build the basic firmware. NOTE however you don't need to rebuild the firmware for the bed so stop before that point. Once you reinstall the Arduino in the printer and the basic firmware is running, you should be able to use Cura to flash the correct firmware noted above.

Good luck.

 

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Thank you Anon,

This evening I have tried to compile / flash the firmware of the printer on the way you described to build the basic firmware through the Arduino IDE 1.0.6, but unfortunately, here I get a timeout as well during the upload and nothing appears on my ulticontroller. I think he is dead :(

 

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Although it is always possible, I really do not think your UltiController is dead.

The problem is that as long as you do not have a valid firmware on the printer, the pin assignments will probably be wrong and the UltiController will not come back to life...

 

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I have just fitted my headed bed kit today. I too noticed that there was no way to trip the lower Z switch but thankfully this question was answered in this thread.

I did have a problem after updating the firmware, when I was trying to do a test print from SD card. The UM would start to heat up and then trip off to zero and just say ready. I tried it a few times and thought I might have done something wrong, until it occurred to me to remove the USB cable. Then it worked absolutely fine. :mrgreen:

I'm looking forward to non warped prints and hopefully we can build up a knowledge base of good settings to make full use of the heated bed.

Dave

 

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I asked Ultimaker. They told me, that the lower switch will not be used. I told them that is not very comfortable because you have to use it with Cura (first installation) . They will check it. :-)

In general i can say, that everything works fine except the first calibration with Cura

 

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Hey All,

I got my kit and got it installed last weekend. Everything is working good. I just had a couple of questions.

Steps per millimeter for the new lead screw must be different.

Based on the old lead screw there was a thread floating around that the minimum distance was .001875mm So I was going to print with layers according to a multiple of that number but any idea what the new number might be?

Is this still the same?

I can't put them next to each other as the printer is running but it seems like there more threads per/cm or inch or whatever.

Also I'm clumsy and broke a tiny surface mounted capacitor on the heat bed electronics board. It pretty much cracked in half. I tried to solder in what was left of it and the Heated bed seams to be working and reading temps. I'm not printing with it now until I hear back from support but I'm concerned I shortened it's life without fixing it properly. I can solder another one in, I just don't know how to find out the size of the capacitor or orientation it should be. It's labeled C4 on the board and was the same as C5.

 

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The pitch is different. On page 33 of the instructions, you are given steps to update the firmware. Did you do those? I believe the new firmware will have the correct steps/mm for the new Z screw. Just make sure you select the Heated Bed (kit) when indicating what upgraded parts you have.

https://www.ultimaker.com/spree/uploads/199/original/Heated_Bed_upgrade_kit_Assembly_Manual.pdf

 

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My bible is the source code...

For the screw:

 


-#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.7402,78.7402,200.0*8/3,760*1.1} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker
+#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.7402,78.7402,200.0,760*1.1} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker

So what used to be 1 / (200 * 8 / 3) = 0.001875 is now 1 / 200 = 0.005 (which is much easier ;) )

(But I never took care of that in the past to be honest...)

 

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Anon4321 I updated the firmware appropriately and everything is working the way it should. I was just wondering what the difference was.

Amedee thanks for that. I'll keep that bible in mind for more info like that. This was more of a curious question than a concern. Everything is working great so far. even with my blown capacitor :(

 

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