Heated bed for the Ultimaker 1

[highlea 2]

Just fitted my heated bed kit and done a pla test using the UM robot.

Everything went well, including the software upgrade.

Few points:

Why is there a Prit stick in the kit?

Looking at the pictures in the manual, the aluminium base plate is fitted with the cable exit to the left. However, as mentioned elsewhere there is nothing to activate the Z down switch.

Looking at the plate, there is a tapped hole at the back on the right. If the plate were turned over, so the cable exits to the right, it looks like a screw could protrude down from this hole to operate the down switch. Anyone else noticed this?

Screws to hold cover over electrics were too long.

[tommyph1208 55]

I've installed my heated bed yesterday.

The nozzle temp is displayed as 19° when cold, which seems to be realistic.

The bed temp is displayed as 37° when cold, which must be wrong.

Any ideas whats wrong???

 

I saw a similar question somewhere, and I believe the answer was found in the fact that the poster had already soldered in a resistor on the board for use with home build heatbed kits... As described here: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Heated_Bed#Sensor

Do you have something like that.?

[rob 0]

Why is there a Prit stick in the kit?

 

Not sure, no instructions to explain it's usage but I assume it's for some sort of bed adhesion. I've found cleaning glass with washing up liquid (dish soap) and warm water and then printing with the bed at 65/70C produces great adhesion with PLA.

 

Looking at the pictures in the manual, the aluminium base plate is fitted with the cable exit to the left. However, as mentioned elsewhere there is nothing to activate the Z down switch.

Looking at the plate, there is a tapped hole at the back on the right. If the plate were turned over, so the cable exits to the right, it looks like a screw could protrude down from this hole to operate the down switch. Anyone else noticed this?

 

I noticed that the hole in the back of the plate which didn't appear to do anything. Flipping it would place it in the correct position for the limit switch as you say but the cable grip ends up on the right meaning you would have to clamp the middle of the cable rather than the sleeving at the end. I think there was a cockup somewhere in the ordering/design process and UM just decided to ship them as they are with no lower limit switch mechanism. Not caaused me any problems so far but it would be nice for UM to let us know what happened here.

 

Screws to hold cover over electrics were too long.

 

I though that to begin with but the wood actually rests on top of the 24V power connector housing causing a gap between the plastic standoffs and the wood. I was expecting it to work like the fan cover on the UM electronics but after further inspection it rests on the power connector housing with a gap.

 

[3dcase 37]

Not sure, no instructions to explain it's usage but I assume it's for some sort of bed adhesion. I've found cleaning glass with washing up liquid (dish soap) and warm water and then printing with the bed at 65/70C produces great adhesion with PLA.

I noticed that the hole in the back of the plate which didn't appear to do anything. Flipping it would place it in the correct position for the limit switch as you say but the cable grip ends up on the right meaning you would have to clamp the middle of the cable rather than the sleeving at the end. I think there was a cockup somewhere in the ordering/design process and UM just decided to ship them as they are with no lower limit switch mechanism. Not caaused me any problems so far but it would be nice for UM to let us know what happened here.

I though that to begin with but the wood actually rests on top of the 24V power connector housing causing a gap between the plastic standoffs and the wood. I was expecting it to work like the fan cover on the UM electronics but after further inspection it rests on the power connector housing with a gap.

 

 

See below a 'official' comment on the Z limit switch

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ultimaker Test Engineer

 

• [*]

[*]Team Ultimaker

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[*]54 posts

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted 26 May 2014 - 11:25 AM

Hi Guys,

Here's some news!

Daid released a new update for Cura,

RC4 contains some new things for the Heated Bed update

-New Firmware!

-Bed leveling now does 3 points.

-Extra option in machine setup for Heated Bed (Kit).

New firmware updates:

-Z homing speed updated.

-Manual Z movement to help with Bed calibration added in Prepare menu

-Software Endstops added. To prevent error from missing Z-bottom stop.

I'll try to release a new Manual today incorporating the new bed leveling procedure and a lot of your feedback.

 

 

[peggyb 170]

After updating the firmware for the HBK the prepare menu changed to preheat pla1 and preheat pal + heated bed, but both do the same...

What if I just want to preheat pla and not the HB (mostly for old files on the sd card which do not need a HB)?

If I change the config in the menu the settings change for both the preheat lines.

 

[3dcase 37]

After updating the firmware for the HBK the prepare menu changed to preheat pla1 and preheat pal + heated bed, but both do the same...

What if I just want to preheat pla and not the HB (mostly for old files on the sd card which do not need a HB)?

If I change the config in the menu the settings change for both the preheat lines.

 

Goedemorgen,

I have the choice for a PLA and a ABS preheat.

If You don't need the ABS preheat to often, it might be a 'workaround' to configure that option as Coldbed?

 

[peggyb 170]

this could be an idea...

but it would be nice to have the possibility to add only pla.

 

[zungara 10]

I do not use the preheat option. I go to control temperatur and adjust the temperature for nozzles and heatbed. It could take a while (up to 15min) to heat the heatbed if you want to print ABS. If i want to print ABS i heat first the heatbed and than the nozzels i want to use, but i have the exdruder / hotend upgrade and i use ABS and PLA some times simultanly

 

[amedee 349]

After updating the firmware for the HBK the prepare menu changed to preheat pla1 and preheat pal + heated bed,

 

Just curious, is that the exact labels you have?

I do not have my HB yet, but I was reading the sources, and I do not find the string 'preheat pla + heated bed'...

I might look at the wrong place, but if not we have:

"Preheat PLA" (or "Preheat PLA 1" depending on the config)

and

"Preheat PLA Bed"

The first one heats nozzle and bed, and the second one the bed only -- so there is a difference between these - not the one you would expect though...

 

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Please feel free to rewrite that part of Marlin and issue a pull request to the ErikZalm repository....

 

[amedee 349]

Tnx for the confirmation.

Actually it looks like heated bed is always on, even if you don't have one!

On my UMO -- without HB -- I am using an alternative controller and one can see that the HB t° is set to 70°C...

I think we can easily make a firmware version where we have

"Preheat PLA" : Just do the nozzle

and

"Preheat PLA Bed" : Just do the bed

So if you want to do both you would have to 'prepare' twice (which might not be a problem as the bed typically takes longer to warm up and we don't want to pre-heat the nozzle too long...)

I'll have a look at this over the weekend if I have a bit of time...

 

[SandervG 1,521]

Why is there a Prit stick in the kit?

 

 

The stick is indeed for better adhesion.

For normal PLA prints you probably don't need it, but feel free to experiment.

For ABS you probably want to use the glue stick to create better adhesion.

For PLA (on the heated bed / Ultimaker 2, which has closed sides but I think you could go towards the same profile) 60º works fine for PLA too.

 

[amedee 349]

@ Peggy (and anyone else interested )...

I have added a firmware configuration parameter to allow preheating the hotend without the bed.

Of course now, if you use this firmware and want to preheat both bed and hotend, you will need to 'prepare' both.

Aside from this, this is exactly the same firmware that the one coming with Cura.

You can download it from https://github.com/AmedeeBulle/MarlinHBK/releases/tag/HBU_PHO_14.11-RC7.

(Unless you have a dual hotend setup, you typically need the MarlinUltimaker-HBK-PHO-250000.hex file)

Note: Although I am pretty confident it is working, I cannot test it as I don't have the hardware (yet)... However it is safe to use, as the changes are minimal and limited to the UltiController menus.

 

[lars86 42]

Hey guys, I ordered this upgrade for my UMO and can't wait to put it in. There was a bit of sticker shock at first, but especially after reviewing the Github parts list and manual, it looks like a well polished kit. I was already planning to rebuild the Z stage for stability, so two birds with one stone!

I just wanted to see how the upgrade was working for everybody, since it's been out for a bit and ask a few questions.

I know that the latest Cura has a compatible firmware build, but was wondering if using this builder would be equivalent: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

I have a few other tweaks; custom extruder drive, direct drive XY, and a bunch of custom parameters for accel, jerk, etc.

Is there a way to make a dump of my current firmware as a backup?

[Curt 3]

Hi Lars,

I have to say after installing the heated bed last week that I'm very pleased with it.

After fiddling with print temp, flow and fan speed I really love printing ABS now.