Hey Nancy,
I'd like to see how the UM2 prints this model scaled down a lot (0.2 of the original model):
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50212
I'd be interested how the ears at the top come out. When I printed it, I had to rotate the model to have the beak face the fan. But I guess you don't need it now.
nicolinux: the prints on the thingiverse 50121 image are acetone vapor polished.
otherwise, the prints from the UM2 will look pretty much like the prints from a well tuned UM1, there is no fundamental difference in print quality
So.. good news is that I had a good print. A bit rough on the lower layers, but by and large decent.
The bad news is... I think the reason the lower edges were rough is because the fans aren't working... yup. Just my luck. The gcode has M106 S255 in it.
Any ideas on how to test the fan? The third fan works, the side fans aren't working, they all go up into the same wire cluster.
Well I would get pronterface. It's free. You can transmit an M106 S255 manually with pronterface and see if the fans come on without having to heat up the hot end or anything. If they don't come on then you will need to check the wiring all the way back to the board somehow.
Oh awesome! I didn't know you could do that. I was trying to figure out how to write a custom GCode file to test, but this is a lot simpler. Yeah, turned out one of the wires was lose and I just had to move it a little.
Aw, thanks @gr5! I'm far from knowledgeable.. I'm just channeling the collective wisdom of you guys!!
Now, is this the best cube ever or is it the best cube ever?!
[ximg]
The vertical lines look like the infill "visible" from the outside. As the material you printed with is slightly translucent.
I'm working hard on getting a proper Cura out for the UM2. There was a slight miscommunication between sales and R&D, which is why the software was not 100% ready yet (we did not know they would sell 5 of them at NY). There will also be a firmware upgrade which will improve your UM2 even more.
The 13.09 pre-release are recommended for UM2 right now. A new full release will be out soon, I still need to verify and fix a few minor things.
nicolinux: the prints on the thingiverse 50121 image are acetone vapor polished.
otherwise, the prints from the UM2 will look pretty much like the prints from a well tuned UM1, there is no fundamental difference in print quality
I know the difference between vapor polished ABS and normal PLA prints. I'd just like to see how well tuned the UM2 is out of the box so to speak.
Hello how bad your UM2? I'm also eager to see if it is difficult to print for a beginner who has never had a 3D printer? On the bed is it possible to scratch the glass? Bed is now automatic but I saw screw settings in the plateau.Est it difficult to have a perfect bed? Regarding adhesion you still have problems? nozzle mouth that easily?
Regards
@Daid -- if you need help testing bugs, just let me know (nancy@mixeelabs.com).
@Daid -- now that you guys have a heated platform.. would it make sense to have a setting in Cura to turn off the heated platform partially throughout the print? Is there a reason for the platform to be heated throughout the entire print?
FYI: Latest Print! http://iama3dprinter.tumblr.com/post/62808381426/ -- printed on glass. Took about 50 minutes
Hello how bad your UM2? I'm also eager to see if it is difficult to print for a beginner who has never had a 3D printer? On the bed is it possible to scratch the glass? Bed is now automatic but I saw screw settings in the plateau.Est it difficult to have a perfect bed? Regarding adhesion you still have problems? nozzle mouth that easily?
LOL, it's not bad at all. The majority of my issues stemmed from an ABS print that went awry, and there was a clump of ABS that clogged up the print head. It's the 3d equivalent of a paper jam, but much more annoying to deal with. It would be nice to have some sort of autocleaning mechanism, and a clog detection mechanism.. not sure what that would look like or how to do it, but I put my vote for more foolproofedness! (didn't realize how much I take the "paper jam" light for granted on my 2d printer).
Bed seems to stay level pretty well.. though I've only had this for a few days so really not sure yet. Screw is for adjust the printer bed, which is a big improvement from U1, where you had to use an allen wrench. My allen wrench is too tall so it was pretty awkward to adjust the bed on the U1. The U2 firmware comes with a bed leveling wizard that walks you through the process--very simple!
My prints are adhering just fine, and I'm now printing directly on the glass bed.
I am still getting to know this printer, so maybe in a week when I have more prints under my belts I can write a more comprehensive review?
I'll be updating http://iama3dprinter.com as I go, so you can check there for live printer feeds, photos, reviews, etc.
As requested: tiny cuddling owls behind a US Quarter (24.26mm diameter): http://iama3dprinter.tumblr.com/post/62815410991/
Video of the print (partial video) is here: http://iama3dprinter.tumblr.com/post/62812743258/
I should probably do redo this with filament that isn't translucent. You can't really see the details. It feels smooth, you can still feel the ridges so nothing like a lego block. The ears are the roughest part (still pretty f'n nice!), especially the one on the tippy top where the print head disconnected from after it stopped printing. Unfortunately, I don't have a macro lens so I can't take close up photos.
Hello.. I'm back again, this time with a funkier problem. The print was going fine and dandy, until it skipped forward about 2cm. This is the second time this happened on this machine, any idea why?
Video of it happening:
http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/39440020
(start at around 0 min 30 seconds)
This happened suddenly. It didn't gradually scooch over. After it jumped it continued printing like normal just 2 cm forward.
The one interesting thing is that this is the longest print we've done. The previous prints we've done have been fine (they've been physically taller, just shorter timewise). The previous time the jump happened to the machine's actual owner was also on a longer print.
All the belts seem pretty tight. We didn't notice any strange noises, and the printer was completely untouched during the print. I double checked the gcode in Cura and Pronterface, and the file looks fine.
Any ideas on what I should check? Thanks!
Hi Nancy, really nice that you caught it on video! Is it reproducible if you restart the print and if so does it happen at the same spot? Would be really nice to know. I hade a very similar problem in April which I suspect *might* be a firmware bug...but I never had time to re-run that print. Check the thread here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1989-big-frisbee-print-shifting-in-y-and-x-halfway-in-print-firmware-bug/%20Sorry%20for%20no%20line%20breaks%20but%20my%20Return%20key%20just%20stopped%20working....
This happens all the time for new machines. There are a few possible causes but 90% of the time it's a set screw that needs a little more tightening. Clearly the X axis didn't slip - it was the Y axis. So you only have to worry about that one. One thing that helps a lot is putting a little sewing machine oil on all those rods so it slides more smoothly. Anyway the fix is to tighten all 6 pulleys. There's 4 Y axis long belts near the top of the machine, and 2 on the short belts. One in a difficult to get to corner and the final one on the motor which is also difficult to get to. You will need to remove the cover in the back left. Sorry. It's those 2 on the short belt that are the most likely that slipped and those are the 2 that are the hardest to get to.
You could mark the pulleys and the shafts with a marker but why mar such a beautiful machine.
Another possibility is skipped steps on the motor - very unlikely though as you have been printing at max acceleration all this time (not necessarily max speed but certainly max acceleration).
You need to tighten the hell out of those pulley set screws.
gr5, from the picture it sure looks like *both* X and Y axes slipped....and also, are sure sure this is a common problem also for (pre-assembled as they are) Ultimaker2 machines?
I'm still guessing on a firmware bug....
I thought so at first also but look more carefully. The part is angled 45 degrees to the print bed. The normally "diagonal" infill is now lined up with the part. The blue arrow that nancy drew is pointing to the front of the machine.
I do need to run this print again at some point, probably today. My friend lent me his 3d printed blaster for our booth at Maker Faire. Some kid (or adult) took it. :( So I'm printing him a new one.
I think it's too early to tell whether this is common for the U2 machines, not big enough sample size.
I'll try tightening the pulley screws.
Issue #5: Major stringage on this model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28123. The GCode looks good (I checked it in Cura + Pronterface). But the blue lines (where the print head should be traveling) seems to still extrude material. I did enable retraction using the pre-released version of Cura. I tried to slice this in KISSlicer but that program crashes everytime I load the the Ultimaker Settings. Not sure why.
Printed the solid version of this vase with 0% infill, 100mm/sec, and 0.2mm layers.
Are you sure retraction is on? If you look at it in cura in layers view it shows blue lines as non-extruding as you said. But if there is retraction it also shows a vertical blue line. The head doesn't move up - that's just a symbol to indicate retraction.
You are printing on the fast side if you want low stringing. To improve the stringing issue, you could cut the speed in half to 50mm/sec (to reduce pressure in the nozzle which causes some stringing) - still retraction should take care of most of that.
Also lower temps tend to string less but I found that white PLA, at least from printbl.com will string a little bit no matter how cold you go:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/
Re: Issue #4 (y-axis scoots midway through print)
I applied some sewing machine oil (+1 for living above a crafts store). However, the scooting happened two more times. Once the axis scooted forward, the second time it scooted backwards.
Oof, this is unfortunate. I don't want to take apart the side board--this machine is a loan from a friend and I don't want to risk screwing things up too much.
@gr5: is the screw I need to reach to tighten the one facing the sideboard (in the the photo on the right below)?
You'll likely have to unscrew those 4 screws there holding the motor in and it's shown being tightened in this photo:
But it's a pain as you have to remove that cover - looks like you already removed the cover.
Much easier to get to is the other end of the short belt:
That's a UM1 picture but the UM2 has identical pulleys. I would tighten that one first as it is easier. Heck I'd just do both of them.
ArunC posted a topic in UltiMaker Cura,
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gadgetfreak 7
Really nice to see a first UM2 "in the wild"
I saw it in Birmingham at the TCT Show last week, really really nice machine. But there was still some work being done with new Cura etc.
I think that the pre-release versions of 13.09 are the only ones supporting correct settings (build size etc) for Ultimaker 2 right now:
http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/Cura_13.09-PreRelease.exe
http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/Cura-13.09-PreRelease2-MacOS.dmg
Keep us posted on the printing!
If anybody knows an object that would need cooling from both sides that does not work well with standard UM1, please paste the link to such an object for Nancy to try
Cheers
Daniel
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