Another thing to try - raise the bed temp. Default nylon print temp is 70C. I prefer 80C. 100C works just fine for Nylon. Having a higher air temp in the printer means the nozzle doesn't have to work quite so hard. Enclosing the printer helps a lot also. don't enclose the top for PLA, but enclosing it for Nylon helps a lot. I just use a large cardboard box that is big enough that it extends over the rear of the printer for the bowdens to come in. There is a huge hole back there for air to leak out but it still increases the air temperature a lot inside the printer.
- 11 months later...
I had exactly the same problem. My silicone seal was totally worn out as a result of failed prints that clogged up the nozzles. I removed it and put some duct tape over it with holes for the nozzles. I can easily print up to 250 degrees again. I did however order some new seals. They come at 3 euro's and hence must be the cheapest spare part of an UM....which is by the way still a fantastic printer.
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gr5 2,294
Usually this is a loose cable but it might be other things.
First check the silicone seal at the base of the print head. How worn out is it? Is it even installed? When two side fans in the print head come on, if the silicone seal isn't working well then that cools the nozzle too much - air gets inside the print head and the heater in the core can't keep up. Especially with higher temp materials.
Then on the print head it's extremely easy to check the cable - remove the rear two screws in the print head - it looks like the print head will fall apart but really all that happens is now the rear access door - on top of the print head - can come off. Look inside. Put the print head in a front corner. Push down on the connector with a tool (maybe a pencil eraser?). Did it move down? If so wrap some tape around the cable for better strain relief. The tape will act as a shim and keep this issue from happening again.
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