Overhangs Sag Too Much

[gr5 2,172]

Is the one you mentioned better?

 

Not really. The only thing better about the one I linked to is that all the other ones I used broke within a month. Whereas the one with the wire tie will last forever.

 

[gr5 2,172]

But....

Doesn't Ultimaker use colorfabb for their filament? I don't really know. But the reels that the filament comes on looks similar.

 

[dwalton 0]

But....

Doesn't Ultimaker use colorfabb for their filament? I don't really know. But the reels that the filament comes on looks similar.

 

I apologize for not being clearer. I was using Ultimachine filament, not Ultimaker filament. I don't know if Ultimaker gets their filament from colorfabb or not, but the colorfabb sure printed nicely:

 

Here is the print profile I used:

[profile]

layer_height = 0.1

wall_thickness = 1.2

retraction_enable = True

solid_layer_thickness = 1.2

fill_density = 10

nozzle_size = 0.4

print_speed = 25

print_temperature = 185

print_temperature2 = 0

print_temperature3 = 0

print_temperature4 = 0

print_bed_temperature = 0

support = None

platform_adhesion = Brim

support_dual_extrusion = Both

filament_diameter = 2.84

filament_diameter2 = 0

filament_diameter3 = 0

filament_diameter4 = 0

filament_flow = 100.0

retraction_speed = 40.0

retraction_amount = 4.5

retraction_dual_amount = 16.5

retraction_min_travel = e

retraction_combing = True

retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.25

bottom_thickness = 0.3

object_sink = 0

overlap_dual = 0.2

travel_speed = 150.0

bottom_layer_speed = 20

infill_speed = 0.0

cool_min_layer_time = 5

fan_enabled = True

skirt_line_count = 5

skirt_gap = 3

skirt_minimal_length = 150.0

fan_layer = 1

fan_speed = 100

fan_speed_max = 100

cool_min_feedrate = 0

cool_head_lift = True

solid_top = True

solid_bottom = True

fill_overlap = 15

support_fill_rate = 20

support_xy_distance = 0.7

support_z_distance = 0.15

brim_line_count = 10

raft_margin = 5

raft_line_spacing = 1.0

raft_base_thickness = 0.3

raft_base_linewidth = 0.7

raft_interface_thickness = 0.2

raft_interface_linewidth = 0.2

fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = False

fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False

fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False

fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False

plugin_config = (lp1

.

object_center_x = -1

object_center_y = -1

 

[gr5 2,172]

Nice. Now try that secret I sent to you privately and the antennas will look even better.

 

[illuminarti 18]

Oooh, intrigue.....

 

[dwalton 0]

I used gr5's trick to get better antennas and it worked. I had been wondering how to do this in Cura and thanks to gr5, I know how to do it.

Here are the prints:

 

Thanks again for all of the help!

 

[gr5 2,172]

Wow! The arms look better also!

 

[IRobertI 520]

So, is there a reason for keeping this "trick" to yourselves? I thought we were here to help each other?

 

[gr5 2,172]

Well Weiin has been bugging me to make a robot "as good as the one on his friends machine" (which is not an ultimaker) but he won't tell us what the settings are.

Nick Foley managed to do amazing results and he didn't want to share with weiin how he did it. He privately told me the trick and asked me not to reveal until Weiin tells us the settings his friend used. I think I managed to make a UM robot as good as Weiin's friend but I'm kind of annoyed he won't take the trouble to find out what the settings were for his friend. So this is motivation for him to tell me ("I'll tell you if you tell me"). I have pm'ed several people what the "trick" is and it only helps antennas so it's not all that useful. I published all the other settings except for this one trick.

Other people have published the trick at other times but I had never tried it before.

See this HUGE thread here and here:

("since when did um users stop caring about print quality?")

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/ultimaker/rx4t5ADCc8U

And this thread on the forums:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3038-can-your-ultimakerultimaker2-print-such-quality/

 

[IRobertI 520]

Ah ok, gotcha. I'll give those threads a read tomorrow, my brain isn't awake enough right now hehe (I hate reading the google groups... so disorganised).

 

[lennart-bruggink 3]

...He privately told me the trick and asked me not to reveal until Weiin tells us the settings his friend used. ...

 

Has the "trick" already been revealed?

I'm sort of Curious..

 

[gr5 2,172]

Yes. Simply print 2 robots - that fixes the antennas. All the other tricks were not a secret. The antennas are a special case because they are so small and they don't have a chance to cool as the print head is almost always touching them.

 

[lennart-bruggink 3]

... and they don't have a chance to cool as the print head is almost always touching them.

 

But wouldn't that mean that you can change it with the layer wait function? Or is this not similar?

 

[illuminarti 18]

The minimum layer time doesn't really help on small parts - While it slows down the print speed so that plastic has time to cool, if the part is small, the head is moving very slowly and actually transferring more heat into the print, rather than letting it cool.

Printing multiple items at once allows the head to go somewhere else while the first part is cooling.

 

[lennart-bruggink 3]

So one more check if I get the idea.

Printing with a sort of "heat dissipation" column next to the object would increase the accuracy of the layer by offering it a better cooldown, not just because there is more time to cool down, but because the print head is not in the direct vicinity of the layer anymore.

...(processing)..,

Wouldn't that mean that an isolating coating (just thinking out loud) in the downside of the head would also lead to a "faster cooled" layer, and thus a better resolution?

Or would more isolation on the head mean overheating of the head?

Cheers!

Lennart

 

[aaronalai 2]

The minimum layer time doesn't really help on small parts - While it slows down the print speed so that plastic has time to cool, if the part is small, the head is moving very slowly and actually transferring more heat into the print, rather than letting it cool.

Printing multiple items at once allows the head to go somewhere else while the first part is cooling.

 

Could one use increase Minimum speed and check Cool head lift on Expert config to move the head away from the build to allow for cooling, or am I just misunderstanding the intent of these settings?

 

[gr5 2,172]

and check Cool head lift

 

Yes, that might work. You would have to do some calculations to make sure the feature is working for your intended spot. Lift might also create vertical spikes of PLA.

 

Wouldn't that mean that an isolating coating (just thinking out loud) in the downside of the head would also lead to a "faster cooled" layer, and thus a better resolution?

 

That won't work. Look at the tip of your nozzle with a magnifying glass. It has a hole and then surrounding that hole is a flat area. That flat area has to be hot I believe because occasionally it is good that it remelts the PLA that it touches. Especially if it is trying to extrude a trace *wider* than the hole size (yes it does that sometimes! - strainge, right?).

Even if it was okay to have the flat spot cool, how could you cool that tiny tiny flat area but still have the PLA hot coming out of the hole?