ABS print help

[berzinskristaps 0]

Hello, 

 

Bought a new filament from formFutura Titanx. Have tried some many settings but cant seem to get it quite right. 

The problem can be seen in the picture. First layers looks really good but then the filament leavs more material after each line and in some parts it also creates holes small. 

Have gone from print temperature 240-260 with fan from 0-30 % and extrusion 95-106 % speed from 30-45 mm.

 

 

 

[andbaglin 0]

I used 3434 tap on my build plate, this has helped my prints to stay on the plate and not warp. Hope this can help 🙂

 

[geert_2 557]

4 hours ago, berzinskristaps said:

...

 

 

I don't know this material, but if I would see this effect in PLA on my UM2 printers, this would be overextrusion.

 

Is there a specific reason why you prefer ABS? Because it is known to be more difficult to print than materials like PLA, tough PLA and PET. (Although PLA can't handle warmer temperatures, and PET is more difficult to glue and paint than ABS.)

 

[gr5 2,167]

titanx is ABS which as geert_2 says is difficult to print (but doable).  It took me about 100 prints to get really good at PLA and then another 100 to get really good at ABS.  You haven't started on the major issues with PLA yet (you will get there when you create an entire print).

 

If I go above around 250C with ABS on a UM2 I have to print faster or it will clog.  Be very careful - ABS creates nasty clogs if you leave the nozzle hot and ABS sits in the nozzle too long (like just a few minutes).

 

ABS tends to be very weak so you have to set the fan very low to get good layer adhesion.  ABS warps more so you need to cover the top of your printer and use ABS glue on the glass (or liquid PVA).  But you haven't hit these issues yet so back to your problem...

 

I don't see any holes.  I see tiny bumps.  Is this what you mean?  I suspect that will go away if you go up a few more layers.  It looks like slight overextrusion.  You could try printing 90% extrusion (I see you mentioned going down to 96%).  You can modify this live while printing from the TUNE menu.

 

Could those bumps be particles?  Maybe the material that makes the filament white?  chalk?  I find that white filament (pla, abs, CPE, whatever) is the hardest material to print.  It doesn't behave as well. 

 

[berzinskristaps 0]

On 9/27/2019 at 6:48 AM, geert_2 said:

 

 

I don't know this material, but if I would see this effect in PLA on my UM2 printers, this would be overextrusion.

 

Is there a specific reason why you prefer ABS? Because it is known to be more difficult to print than materials like PLA, tough PLA and PET. (Although PLA can't handle warmer temperatures, and PET is more difficult to glue and paint than ABS.)

 

 

 

I did choose the ABS because i thought i will print a mould witch i can termo form later, but it was a bad idea. I basically make a silicon mould and then i will pure in epoxy for mould or polyurethane.

[berzinskristaps 0]

On 9/27/2019 at 9:28 PM, gr5 said:

titanx is ABS which as geert_2 says is difficult to print (but doable).  It took me about 100 prints to get really good at PLA and then another 100 to get really good at ABS.  You haven't started on the major issues with PLA yet (you will get there when you create an entire print).

 

If I go above around 250C with ABS on a UM2 I have to print faster or it will clog.  Be very careful - ABS creates nasty clogs if you leave the nozzle hot and ABS sits in the nozzle too long (like just a few minutes).

 

ABS tends to be very weak so you have to set the fan very low to get good layer adhesion.  ABS warps more so you need to cover the top of your printer and use ABS glue on the glass (or liquid PVA).  But you haven't hit these issues yet so back to your problem...

 

I don't see any holes.  I see tiny bumps.  Is this what you mean?  I suspect that will go away if you go up a few more layers.  It looks like slight overextrusion.  You could try printing 90% extrusion (I see you mentioned going down to 96%).  You can modify this live while printing from the TUNE menu.

 

Could those bumps be particles?  Maybe the material that makes the filament white?  chalk?  I find that white filament (pla, abs, CPE, whatever) is the hardest material to print.  It doesn't behave as well. 

 

Did print a full 100 % . Forgot to put brim on bottom had a little warping but overall it did look great as i think . Ended with 106 % flow speed 40 mm/s and temperature 245 c with out a fan. Need to increase layer count on top. 

I think those bumps where because filament was wet it was making popping sound first Hours and then did stop so did the bumps. 

 

But in the middle of print have a strange line thats 1mm off you can see in the picture. 

 

[gr5 2,167]

filament that sizzles and pops is indeed "wet".  Probably only the outer few meters were affected.  Dry ABS filament by putting it on the heated bed at 90C overnight with a towel over the spool.

 

Don't do this high a temp with pla or pva.  I've *never* had to dry pla.  Not sure if it can absorb water.  PVA gets soft around 80C so dry PVA at 70C.  Nylon can be dried at 90C.

 

 

[gr5 2,167]

10 hours ago, berzinskristaps said:

But in the middle of print have a strange line thats 1mm off you can see in the picture. 

I can't see that very well.  it could be underextrusion or it could be bad layer adhesion.  ABS is tough to print.  I recommend PLA for now.  Unless you are patient and willing to spend a week or two figuring it out.

 

[geert_2 557]

The brown spots on your print - if they got there while printing (not afterwards due to post-processing) - are likely material that got accumulated on the outside of the nozzle, then partially burned or decomposed, sagged and got deposited on the print. Or material that got partially burned inside the nozzle and then extruded.

 

If your purpose is to make a model as a base to create silicone moulds later on, I would also recommend trying PLA. I have good experiences with Ultimaker Pearl PLA, and with colorFabb red and orange PLA/PHA. And smooth this later on, so the mould is smoother and can be removed easier. ColorFabb's Traffic Red can be smoothed very well with acetone, if desired (see the dedicated thread on acetone smoothing PLA from user cloakfiend, with lots of good photos). I don't know how Ultimaker PLA would smooth, as I never tried that.

 

With PLA you are far less likely to run into problems like delamination, warping and clogging.

 

I never had delamination and never had real clogs, so I can't say much about the gap in the last photo. Except this: keep watching closely while printing, and use magnifying glasses. Then you can see most of the causes of the problems as they are happening. This takes some time in the beginning, but gives a lot of extra understanding. And try lots of small testpieces, each with your typical problem aspects (depending on your designs and complexity), before doing big prints. Consider this part of the learning curve and cost. I still do this today, even after thousands of prints: if I don't really know how a new design feature is going to come out, I make a small test piece with only that feature, and with small variations on that feature.

 

 

 

[berzinskristaps 0]

Made the first almost successful print. Conclusion when i tried to print with ultimaker settings 0.6 mm extra fine i hade a lot of problems . Then i tried 1mm , with 0 fan and speed 40 mm/s with 260 temperature and 106 % flow. 

The surface feel kind of ruff , i know should it be like that ? 

There was 0 warping with heat bed on 85 c for me 100 c was to hot and the materials got small foot . But as you can see in the picture it still looks like under extrusion.  

 

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