Air Manager Firmware

[neute 16]

On 12/10/2019 at 12:49 PM, robinmdh said:

 

Because we can't stop people from putting air-manages on top of pro bundles, and when you have an air-manager and it doesn't spin it's not good

 

Hi, 

can you elaborate on that? I've used 3rd party hoods on our older UM3 and UM2s before, and am at this moment using the Air Manager as a "pretty hood" without it being connected... It helps to elevate the build chamber temperature and thus yields stronger prints. What can go wrong?

 

thanks, 
Niklas

[SandervG 1,521]

Hi @neute, thank you for your message. It indeed helps to elevate the build chamber temperature, but what you don't want is that it elevates the temperature beyond a point that is safe for various parts in that same build chamber. Like for example, the slider blocks. That is why we generally don't recommend to keep the hood without any exhaust / active filtering so it can warm up the build volume, but not too much. Hope this helps!

[micboe 0]

@SandervG what is the maximum allowed build volume temperature?

[SandervG 1,521]

17 hours ago, micboe said:

@SandervG what is the maximum allowed build volume temperature?

 

I believe that would be 50ºC. 

[PaulK 14]

I've been running my S5 with an acrylic "hat" pretty much since I got it. When not printing PLA, I leave the doors closed (I open them for PLA). Now, my hat is not as closed up as the air manager; notably, it has an open section where the Bowden tubes enter, so will not hold heat as well as the air manager, but the chamber temperate has never gotten even close to 50, even with 100C build plate. So' I'd imagine the risk of over temp is relatively low, though I may be underestimating the additional sealing of the air manager.

 

BTW, here I forgot to open the doors for PLA; you can clearly see the line where I remembered to open them 🙂 (the overhang is much rougher with the door closed). So, although I think the air manager should be closed loop control, clearly the auto-exhaust for pla would help me 🙂

 

My preferred algorithm would be: Exhaust for PLA. Run at absolute minimum for everything else (though I'm not sure about CPE, haven't printed enough of it in long prints to know how warm the chamber has to get before the disadvantages outweigh the advantages)

 

 

Edited December 19, 2019 by PaulK

[PaulK 14]

I should add that my ambients run 16-21 (depending on the time of year), and clearly some people will have much higher and that will definitely make a pretty big difference.

[micboe 0]

7 hours ago, SandervG said:

 

I believe that would be 50ºC. 

thanks!

 

3 hours ago, PaulK said:

I should add that my ambients run 16-21 (depending on the time of year), and clearly some people will have much higher and that will definitely make a pretty big difference.

in my situation this temperature variation can be even larger, and this within the same print  - I understand the air manager has no real time temperature measurement and will base its settings on initial data (@ start of the print) so I'm afraid it will result in print to print variation.

As I'm printing most of the time more engineering grade materials for functional parts I want to minimise this and I'm afraid the current Air Manager functionality is falling short on this.

Considering building my own hood now with temperature controlled fan regulation, hence the max allowed temp question 🙂 

[greatg 0]

OK. So, the material station works. As soon as I plug in the air manager I keep getting the error that the fan cannot spin to speed? There are no obstructions, firmware updated to latest, filter taken off fan...

[Gabriele 8]

Today I tried to print a medium sized object in ABS, build volume temperature set at 50° from cura 4.4. 

The internal build volume temperature measured was around 30 deg (build plate at 100°).

The object warped and delaminated.

With the air manager turned off the internal build volume temperature was higher, around 45°/50° and the print was perfect. 

 

 

 

[Elfonerio 5]

27 minutes ago, Gabriele said:

Today I tried to print a medium sized object in ABS, build volume temperature set at 50° from cura 4.4. 

The internal build volume temperature measured was around 30 deg (build plate at 100°).

The object warped and delaminated.

With the air manager turned off the internal build volume temperature was higher, around 45°/50° and the print was perfect. 

 

 

 

I do the same, I wish I could turn that fan down to the very minimum with ABS

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

@Elfonerio do you have the latest firmware version installed?

[Elfonerio 5]

1 hour ago, Dim3nsioneer said:

@Elfonerio do you have the latest firmware version installed?

As far as I know.  It is 5.4.27.  I am happy with it, works great, just too much fan with ABS, even ultimaker ABS.

[gr5 2,167]

50C air temp is pushing the limits where you might damage something.  I'm not sure what the specification is for maximum air temp.

 

If your ABS part isn't sticking well you certainly don't need an air manager at all as I've printed ABS even on a UMO.  Raising the air temp is definitely a big help to getting parts to stick but it should only be one tool in your arsenal of tools.  Here's a video where I describe all the tricks to get parts to stick well and not just *what* to do but *why*.  Yes it's a long video (I edited it down a lot) but hopefully you'll learn a few key details:

 

[lrodriguez 32]

4 hours ago, Elfonerio said:

I do the same, I wish I could turn that fan down to the very minimum with ABS

 

What brand of filament are you working with, by the way?

[Elfonerio 5]

10 minutes ago, lrodriguez said:

 

What brand of filament are you working with, by the way?

UM Black ABS, but something that I did not know got brought to my attention, and that is that I can adjust the build volume temperature, something I was unaware of.  Right now it looks like default is 35°, so ill bump that up.  What I am printing is large and flat, roughly 10 inches by 6 inches, and adhesion is the easy part.  It is when I take the part off it warps, the higher build temperatures reduce warping in my situation.

 

Edited January 19, 2020 by Elfonerio

[gr5 2,167]

5 hours ago, Elfonerio said:

It is when I take the part off it warps,

 

Wow - that's new to me.  Do you let the glass bed cool to at least 80C before removing the part from the glass?  You got me quite curious.

 

injection molding has similar issues - when the part comes out of the mold it warps - they have to do weird things like make 90 corners 95 degrees (or 85 - I forget).

 

I think I need to see photographs of this warping.

[Elfonerio 5]

30 minutes ago, gr5 said:

 

Wow - that's new to me.  Do you let the glass bed cool to at least 80C before removing the part from the glass?  You got me quite curious.

 

injection molding has similar issues - when the part comes out of the mold it warps - they have to do weird things like make 90 corners 95 degrees (or 85 - I forget).

 

I think I need to see photographs of this warping.

Yeah, I let the bed get cool, I usually take the print off in the morning, It gets done 2 hours before I get in to work.  Ill have one done with the air manager unplugged tomorrow, and another one with it plugged in soon, so ill try to get a pic.  I print one of these panels every day, so I try to keep them pretty dialed in. 

The warping isn't the corners lifting up at all.  It is when it cools and seperates from my bed (I use glass and Aquanet, that's it) the center pops up.  The surface finish on the part definitely indicates proper adhesion, and there is not signs any part of the print lifting when printing. 

It's not a big deal, except we send them out to get circuit boards installed on them so I don't want them too warped. 

Before the air manager the corners would lift and I had all sorts of problems with ABS, so I printed CPE.  I installed the air manager, and it works great for most all purposes, except default setting with a UM ABS spool the fan still spins too fast and I get the center arching up when the print cools. 

 

[Elfonerio 5]

On 1/19/2020 at 8:41 PM, gr5 said:

 

Wow - that's new to me.  Do you let the glass bed cool to at least 80C before removing the part from the glass?  You got me quite curious.

 

injection molding has similar issues - when the part comes out of the mold it warps - they have to do weird things like make 90 corners 95 degrees (or 85 - I forget).

 

I think I need to see photographs of this warping.

Well here it is with build chamber temp set to 50° C, Turned out awesome!  I'm not going to print a bad one for the sake of showing what warping I had seeing that these take 20 Hrs. and $7.91.  But if you imaging, the flat side is the side that is on the build surface, and that very minor bowing you see was way more pronounced with default build chamber temperatures.  There was a dishing effect going on, when there was too much fan running.

 

The air manager works like a champ, couldn't be happier.

[Dweia 0]

On 12/13/2019 at 2:26 PM, Dweia said:

Regarding the not-working camera-stream, I did not yet do systematic testing. Yesterday I wanted to confirm the state of a print, and couldn't, because the Ultimaker apparently wasn't listening on port 8080. Today when I switched the printer on again, the camera-stream works for now. I'll try to keep an eye on it, and report if I find something systematic about it. (So far I didn't do a reset of Cura Connect.)

 

Yesterday I started a new printjob at 09:30 - the camera worked and produced images until today 07:50, so it worked for approximately 22:20 hours and now the camera-stream isn't responding any more, neither for "snapshot" nor for "stream" - the port 8080 just doesn't seem to be open any more.

 

The firmware is now 5.4.27, which according to the webpage is the newest currently available.

 

Any idea how to fix it, or how to debug it? The print will be finished this afternoon, so I can do testing only starting next week.