Ok thanks, I will try it with UHU stic delivered in Ultimaker S5 accessory box.
Do you recomend to use raft or brim? I would prefer brim because it's eassier to remove it than raft. In other words the raft became welded on the part, may be I have some parameters worng.
On the other hand I use raft to get air between the glass and the part to avoid any glass damage, but some times doesn't work and the resolt is the raft welded in the part
I think you answered the question yourself. 😉
Personally I prefer a brim and replace the glass if necessary.
Good morning,
Printing with UHU stic on the glass and without any plate adhesion type, the glass became damaged again. Small glass parts appears glued in the part, see photo attached. Is it normal? this no have sense. On this way the glass must be replaced every week.
Did you smear the glue stick with a dampened cloth? A uniform distribution is important so you have no islands without glue. Renew the glue film for every print, if just by smearing existing glue again.
Is it the same glass plate? Do you use any tools for removal?
I smeared without dampened cloth. I attach a photo of the glass. The glass is the same. It's the second glass with these issues so I'm afraid to use the third.
I don't use any tool to remove it because when its cold the part pull out itself. In hot it's impossible to remove it.
I have similar experiences with some materials, not with CPE+ so far, but with ToughPLA.
I use now the chipped glas with the UM adhesion sheets as glass protection for these materials.
1 hour ago, Smithy said:I use now the chipped glas with the UM adhesion sheets as glass protection for these materials.
MeToo. CPE and Colorfabb XT were the Chipping-Kings, ABS followed and with thick wood glue and PLA I got very large chips out of the fridge 8-O Now i have two glass plates with adhesion sheets for every printer... tsss.
Sounds good to protect the UM glass with UM adhesion sheets, I will try it.
This issue only appears with CPE+, in my opinion, because high temperature in the plate, 100ºC. With tough PLA it's OK.
I have had this with PET, when using a bonding of dilluted white wood glue. Bonding was absolutely excellent, too excellent. It chipped while cooling down, even without pulling.
Now I wipe the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water, prior to printing. This method slightly reduces bonding for PET, but avoids chipping (contrary to PLA where the salt-method greatly improves bonding). PET models that need lots of cooling now tend to warp slightly, but models that can be printed without any cooling come out fine without warping, and without chipping, such as my typical long flat models. After cooling down, they come off easily. If you try this, stay with the printer to see if it works for your models, and if they don't pop off in mid-print.
No issues with PLA so far.
14 hours ago, geert_2 said:I have had this with PET, when using a bonding of dilluted white wood glue. Bonding was absolutely excellent, too excellent. It chipped while cooling down, even without pulling.
Now I wipe the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water, prior to printing. This method slightly reduces bonding for PET, but avoids chipping (contrary to PLA where the salt-method greatly improves bonding). PET models that need lots of cooling now tend to warp slightly, but models that can be printed without any cooling come out fine without warping, and without chipping, such as my typical long flat models. After cooling down, they come off easily. If you try this, stay with the printer to see if it works for your models, and if they don't pop off in mid-print.
No issues with PLA so far.
Appreciate your experience, thanks.
ArunC posted a topic in UltiMaker Cura,
.thumb.jpeg.0b7a05eafc09add17b8338efde5852e9.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Dim3nsioneer 557
Use the gluestick for a protective adhesion layer on the glass plate and make sure you renew that layer from time to time to avoid chipping of the glass plate.
Link to post
Share on other sites