Ultimaker With Skr 1.4

[Porkpie 23]

on my github, i've updated

 Configuration.h

 Configuration_adv.h

 pins_BTT_SKR_common.h

for the latest changes. this is the configuration that my franken-UM2+ is now running on. i'm still sporadically getting a hard reset during print. not sure about the root cause of the issue, though. will exclude temperatures for now, as these are pretty constant at 60°C on the drivers and some 45°C on the processor.  everything else, including the heatbed- and hotend-MOSFETs is running cooler than that ( measured 1 hour into a print).

seems that the issue is gone when i do a hard reset right before a print, and is more likely to show up after a filament change and consecutive print w/o hard reset in between. idk.

anyway, max speeds on x,y axes have to be diligently fine-tuned to avoid case resonances (and head resonances, especially the fan duct interacting with the hotend body, go figure!) to really enjoy the smoothness of the stepper motors on the TMC drivers. rule of thumb: to avoid resonances and at the same time maintain print quality, _increasing_ speeds may be way to go, rather than lowering them. otherwise, speed ripple of the stepper motors will bite you. for the z-axis, i can't go any higher than approx. 20 mm/s, or serious "screaming" will kick in, albeit not as nerve-wrecking as the original sound. on the other hand, the feeder is absolutely dead silent now, apart from the sporadic "cracking" on retract, that seems to be typical of the bondtech DDG that i am using.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 5, 2020 by Porkpie

[suspiciouspingpong 1]

On 4/30/2020 at 1:43 AM, Anthrix said:

Couple photos for now.

@Anthrix Wow, this is great! I've got a spare MK52 laying around, have exactly this idea with it. It looks like you've simply drilled additional holes in the original base plate? Could you share the locations of the holes you drilled?

PS: why aren't the cables running through the original location?

[Anthrix 19]

Hi sorry for late replay 🙂 @suspiciouspingpong So for the holes location you'll need to put screw in the end middle hole (that is original hole) and then mark-it rest of the holes.

Front holes are very close to the edge so need to be careful with size of the drill.

 

Cables are rooted this way to reduce stress on the cable bends. Bigger bend radius less stress on the cable.

 

[michil 0]

Hello Anthirx,

 

thanks for the hints using the original Ultimaker Controller with SKR 1.4. It was very usefull. Currently I build also a SKR 1.4 Turbo into my Ultimaker 2+ and it is working fine.

In the next step I tried to add a BLTouch for AUTO_LEVELING and here I'm having an issue. When trying to do the AUTO_LEVELING it homes the build plate (which is at Z_MAX) at the bottom of the printer. The BED_LEVELING is starting with a HOME and the it starts the BLTouch probe to come out. And here is the problem, the build plate have to be raised to 0mm before starting the probing. ANy hint to get it wokring?

I saw from your images that you also use a probe (even it is a inductive or capacitive probe).

 

#Kind regards

 

Michael

[michil 0]

On 8/1/2020 at 11:47 AM, michil said:

Hello Anthirx,

 

thanks for the hints using the original Ultimaker Controller with SKR 1.4. It was very usefull. Currently I build also a SKR 1.4 Turbo into my Ultimaker 2+ and it is working fine.

In the next step I tried to add a BLTouch for AUTO_LEVELING and here I'm having an issue. When trying to do the AUTO_LEVELING it homes the build plate (which is at Z_MAX) at the bottom of the printer. The BED_LEVELING is starting with a HOME and the it starts the BLTouch probe to come out. And here is the problem, the build plate have to be raised to 0mm before starting the probing. ANy hint to get it wokring?

I saw from your images that you also use a probe (even it is a inductive or capacitive probe).

 

#Kind regards

 

Michael

 

Meanwhile I got the AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR working but I do not get it working with correct values. I do everything what I found to evaluate the Z Offset for the BLTouch (it's a clone not the original). When I check the Z 0 I still have about 1 to 1.5mm between nozzle and print bed. When I try to print something, The nozzle is directly on the Glass of the printbed, so that no filament could come out. Very strange. Something I have to take care about in Cura?

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Anthrix 19]

On 8/1/2020 at 10:47 AM, michil said:

Hello Anthirx,

 

thanks for the hints using the original Ultimaker Controller with SKR 1.4. It was very usefull. Currently I build also a SKR 1.4 Turbo into my Ultimaker 2+ and it is working fine.

In the next step I tried to add a BLTouch for AUTO_LEVELING and here I'm having an issue. When trying to do the AUTO_LEVELING it homes the build plate (which is at Z_MAX) at the bottom of the printer. The BED_LEVELING is starting with a HOME and the it starts the BLTouch probe to come out. And here is the problem, the build plate have to be raised to 0mm before starting the probing. ANy hint to get it wokring?

I saw from your images that you also use a probe (even it is a inductive or capacitive probe).

 

#Kind regards

 

Michael

Hey, sorry for so late replay. I do use inductive sensor same as on Prusa mk3 4s wires. Works really well. 

I do use  AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR this is link to my config files so you can check them out. Config files.

[empeka 0]

I've mounted the bed using three original screws, but I'm experiencing slight flexing.

How many screws have you used to mount bed? In the picture above i see that there are at least one extra on middle front.

have you tried to mount it as it is in prusa, using  all eight mount points and distance tubes?

[Anthrix 19]

On 9/25/2020 at 5:52 PM, empeka said:

I've mounted the bed using three original screws, but I'm experiencing slight flexing.

How many screws have you used to mount bed? In the picture above i see that there are at least one extra on middle front.

have you tried to mount it as it is in prusa, using  all eight mount points and distance tubes?

On my set up i used 8 off them. Results bed is rock solid :)

[Dilphat 0]

Hi, 

 

Was curious, what power supply did you use? As I am going to attempt to overhaul my Ultimaker 2. Thank you, 

[Anthrix 19]

On 10/22/2020 at 1:43 AM, Dilphat said:

Hi, 

 

Was curious, what power supply did you use? As I am going to attempt to overhaul my Ultimaker 2. Thank you, 

I used MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 24V 14.6A 

[stefan787 4]

@Anthrix Could you tell something more about your setup?

 

I'm building my ultimaker with the same bed and Z probe.

Could you tell something about the printhead, you had shared the link to the files? But how about the Z probe. Did you made a bracket yourself?
 

And how about the marlin setup? do you still have a Z max endstop or only the Z probe. I always have a hard time setting these probes up. I also saw you have a github with your Marlin version, great! 

 

And how is the heated bed mounted, fixed or with springs?

 

Thanks!

 

[ETA_Boeckle 0]

@Anthrix I would also apreciate if you would be willing to share the Z probe fixture... My old UMO is aboute 80-90% complete. Z probe and filament runout detector being the last two little mod's I would like to add to it.

 

Thanks a lot!

[gilles-manzato 2]

I've come with an hybrid solution, since I wanted to keep the PT100 for both bed and nozzle. 
By using Klipper , I'm able to run all the heating on the original board ( also the screen ) , but all 4 steppers ( and endstops ) are controlled by the SKR board. I'm still using the original powerbrick , just soldered 2 wires from the original board connected to the new board. The printer is dead silent when printing abs with only the nozzle fan on. Impressive.

[joebleaack 1]

On 6/15/2020 at 12:12 PM, Porkpie said:

thanks anthrix for your findings! to take things a little bit further, i did some work lately on this particular topic, and these are my findings so far:

1. have some freewheeling diodes added to the PWM outputs of the SKR V1.4 to avoid overvoltage damage to the output MOSFETs:

bigtreetech-skr-v1-4-turbo-freewheeling-diodes

2. also, do _not_ use smoothing capactors on PWM outputs. this is simply bad practice that puts a lot of  extra stress on the MOSFETs. instead, use proper PWM settings in your MARLIN configuration.

3. TMC5160 drivers should have stealthchop enabled, but _disabled_ through the printer's config menu. this reduces noise of the steppers.

4.  it took me quite some time to figure out the basic settings in MARLIN 2.0.5.3 to make it cooperate with the skr1.4 and the UM2+. besides that, you need some extra hardware to properly connect the PT100 sensors and the hotend-fan to the board. see more details on my github:

Marlin+SKR1.4+TMC5160+UM2plus

 

 

 

 

Can u please share the stl for the power supply mout?

[xChrismas 0]

On 6/27/2020 at 12:22 PM, Porkpie said:

this is the final setup of the SKR V1.4 Turbo in my UM2+ chassis.

without white cover and extra fan being off, the TMC5160 drivers easily reached 60°C @ 28°C ambient temperature, causing a hard reset of the SKR approx. 90 min into the prints on three different occasions.

 

hence, i opted for forced cooling of the SKR, using a 12 VDC fan (60x60x10), connected to the 5VDC output of the DCDC module. also tried a 12VDC impeller from a radeon graphics card, connected to  5VDC. air flow was massive, but torque noise was way too loud.

 

a note of caution: the heatsinks that BTT supplies with the TMC5160 are utter BS. they actually  fell off the MOSFETs when the temperature reached 60°C. the MOSFETs btw don't need any cooling at all, i've tested that. its just the TMC5160 heating up the driver modules and the MOSFETs.

 

so, for now, i'd call this mod done, my UM2+ is running not really silently, but much more silent than with the original stepper drivers. especially the many case resonances and the utter screaming of the Z-axis are gonsky. the USB "pigtail" will get an upgrade with a panel-mount adapter that fits into the original aperture on the back of the printer.  next thing to tackle with is the noise of the part fans.

 

two points remain, though:
1. many comments on the TMC5160 say that there is no heatsink required. why is the TMC5160 running so hot in my   configuration? can somebody confirm the temperature of the drivers? i mean, did anybody else really measure the temp of the drivers?
2. i'd would have expected the steppers to run "dead silent" on the TMC5160. in fact, there is still a well audible humming (but no whining), when the steppers are moving.  what's your experience?

 

 

SKR14_axial60_lid.stl 4.56 MB · 23 downloads SKR14_imp_cass.stl 3.83 MB · 25 downloads SKR14_pcb_base_V2b.stl 2.55 MB · 28 downloads

Hey, great work on this one!

My any means is there a chance that you could share the .stl file for the lid and the PSU mount aswell? That would be really appreciated. 

I'm currently doing this conversion with an SKR 2.0 REV B and it seems to work pretty well so far. 
But instead of using some extra boards for the Pt100 Thermocouples I used a standard glass thermistor for the bed (type 0 in marlin) and a B3950 for the hotend (type 13 in marlin). 
Other than that I will change the heatsink cooling fan for a 24V fan that I can directly control via a PWM port on the 2.0. The part cooling fans will also be replaced by blower fans (Link to mod: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4888655).
This saves a lot of the guesswork and extra parts but also requires some soldering skills if you don't want to take the whole machine apart. But I think it's worth it. 

[Porkpie 23]

yeah, this mod is no longer in operation on my trusty UM2+, as the BTT SKR 1.4 failed my expectations big time.

anyway, here are the files. you need the lid for the controller box ("..plate_comb_stretch"), 4 pcs. of board holders and the PS adapter.

for the PS mount, note that you _will_ need an extra beam (quadratic brass or aluminum profile, approx 0.2" x 0.2" to enforce the left mounting flange of the PS adapter. PLA isn't stiff enough, it will bend after some time. maybe PETG has better stability under load, but i didn't test it.

have a look at the above picture, it is the golden bar with a center screw on the left hand side of the PS.

sorry, can't find the STL for the PS terminal protection anymore.

 

SKR14_plate_comb_stretch.stl SKR14_Mounting_Tab_4pcs.stl PS_Adapter_V2.stl

[xChrismas 0]

2 hours ago, Porkpie said:

yeah, this mod is no longer in operation on my trusty UM2+, as the BTT SKR 1.4 failed my expectations big time.

anyway, here are the files. you need the lid for the controller box ("..plate_comb_stretch"), 4 pcs. of board holders and the PS adapter.

for the PS mount, note that you _will_ need an extra beam (quadratic brass or aluminum profile, approx 0.2" x 0.2" to enforce the left mounting flange of the PS adapter. PLA isn't stiff enough, it will bend after some time. maybe PETG has better stability under load, but i didn't test it.

have a look at the above picture, it is the golden bar with a center screw on the left hand side of the PS.

sorry, can't find the STL for the PS terminal protection anymore.

 

SKR14_plate_comb_stretch.stl 1.42 MB · 0 downloads SKR14_Mounting_Tab_4pcs.stl 393.89 kB · 0 downloads PS_Adapter_V2.stl 2.45 MB · 0 downloads

Thank you very much for the quick response. 

Regarding your PSU mount: Yeah I can imagine why this wouldn't hold up over time. PLA gets extremly weak at 55C plus and I don`'t think the PSU has any problem reaching that temperature because the volatage regualtors use the metal case as a heatsink. It really gets toasty under there. I would not print this out of PLA. PETG at minimum or at best something like ABS+. 
Currently my PSU is fixed to the bottom of the Ultimaker with some doublesided tape, which will be a pain to get off at anytime I would want to change it...


Other than that I think it should be recommended to put the Ultimaker onto some feet to get some extra airflow to the PSU. Additionally plugging a 120mm 24V Fan into the 3rd PWM fan port (of the SKR 2.0) to use it as a Electronics Case Fan in Marlin is not a bad idea and can't hurt performance either. 

For terminal protection of the PSU I use this print: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/74538-mean-well-lrs-200-24-psu-cover

but I could also imagine this to work well: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3572269

 

May I ask what problems you had with the SKR 1.4? What did you switch to? 
 

[Garufa 11]

On 2/19/2021 at 1:50 AM, gilles-manzato said:

I've come with an hybrid solution, since I wanted to keep the PT100 for both bed and nozzle. 
By using Klipper , I'm able to run all the heating on the original board ( also the screen ) , but all 4 steppers ( and endstops ) are controlled by the SKR board. I'm still using the original powerbrick , just soldered 2 wires from the original board connected to the new board. The printer is dead silent when printing abs with only the nozzle fan on. Impressive.

Could you share your configuration files? I would like to try your setup

[fishycho 0]

Hi friend, i have an ultimaker 2 extended with an skr 1.3 TMX 2208, i cant configure your files and put lcd to work, can you give some help please.

[donovan027 1]

On 2/14/2022 at 5:07 PM, Porkpie said:

yeah, this mod is no longer in operation on my trusty UM2+, as the BTT SKR 1.4 failed my expectations big time.

anyway, here are the files. you need the lid for the controller box ("..plate_comb_stretch"), 4 pcs. of board holders and the PS adapter.

for the PS mount, note that you _will_ need an extra beam (quadratic brass or aluminum profile, approx 0.2" x 0.2" to enforce the left mounting flange of the PS adapter. PLA isn't stiff enough, it will bend after some time. maybe PETG has better stability under load, but i didn't test it.

have a look at the above picture, it is the golden bar with a center screw on the left hand side of the PS.

sorry, can't find the STL for the PS terminal protection anymore.

 

SKR14_plate_comb_stretch.stl 1.42 MB · 8 downloads SKR14_Mounting_Tab_4pcs.stl 393.89 kB · 6 downloads PS_Adapter_V2.stl 2.45 MB · 5 downloads

This is amazing! Wow! Sorry that the SKR 1.4 let you down, that sucks. I am busy converting mine to a SKR Pro v1.2 and would really appreciate the source files of the STL's you used. I love your designs, I just need to modify them for the bigger board. Would really appreciate it. Once again, awesome Job!

[rotorhead 1]

On 2/14/2022 at 3:07 PM, Porkpie said:

yeah, this mod is no longer in operation on my trusty UM2+, as the BTT SKR 1.4 failed my expectations big time.

 

 

Hey @Porkpie I am starting a similar project and looking at using either the SKR 1.4, the Mini E3 V3 or maybe the Duet 2 Wifi board. I was just wondering why you decided you didn't like the SKR 1.4 in the end?

[michil 0]

Hello all,

 

I switched to the Octopus V1.1 and I can't get the Ultimaker Controller running anymore with the patched EXT1 and EXT2 cables. I used the J73 connector on the board as source for SCL, SDA and 3.3V. SD card is running, the rotary controller is working as well as the speaker, but no output on the display. Nothing.

Any hints?

[zevelfloyd 0]

Hi, @Anthrix @Porkpie

Thank you so much for sharing your great work!

Just got a biqu b1 (skr 1.4, tmc2209. H2 lite extruder) klipperized (rpi 3b) + an old android as a touch gui.

 

also just got- a UM2- great condition nothing wrong with it really.

would love to hear your thoughts on this plan- 

harvest the skr1.4/ tmc2209/ rpi/ android klipperscreen. Put it in the UM2. Forgot to mention the adxl345 for the resonance. 

 

? 

 

Also, but maybe further down the line- have 2 seperate configurations, one for the original extruder, and the other, a variation of it, but modded to work with the h2 lite 1.75 direct drive extruder, which I would drop in to replace the original one  ..which might not be as cumbersome as it sounds.. 

 

Thanks!

[Yo-NuTZ 3]

Could you please post a link to a compatible PT100 adapter board?

[mrgaryth 0]

On 3/30/2020 at 10:42 PM, Anthrix said:

So if you use skr 1.4 you'll need to slice cable to extend 3 wires and make connection to different location.

that will be 3.3v - power, (SCL, SDA - this is your i2c communication for screen). 

Ultimaker controller drawing. J2, J3 Connectors

if you look at the drawings connectors j2 and j3. J2 - pins 6 and 4 this is where your i2c going.

J3 - pin 8 ,3.3v which is missing on skr side is exp 2 pin 8 you need to split and supply 3.3v from any pin on board, i did use from wi-fi interface. (i do use wi-fi connector (rx,tx) for octoprint. so 3.3v is free to use for screen if you planing to use esp3d then is couple other pins with 3.3v you could use one of them.)

i2c wire is very simple EXP1 port wire 6, 4.

Skr 1.4 pins

 

After that just in marlin to enable ultimaker 2 controller.

Also PCA9632 led controller is supported by marlin so led also will be working. just enable in marlin.

 

if need more info let me know.

 

I appreciate this is a bit old now but I am currently working on this mod due to my ultiboard dying. Where on the I2C header do EXP1 cables 4 and 6 go?

 

Edit:

I2C pins

0.0 = SDA1
0.1 = SCL1

Edited January 10, 2023 by mrgaryth