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Posted (edited) · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4

on my github, i've updated

 Configuration.h

 Configuration_adv.h

 pins_BTT_SKR_common.h

for the latest changes. this is the configuration that my franken-UM2+ is now running on. i'm still sporadically getting a hard reset during print. not sure about the root cause of the issue, though. will exclude temperatures for now, as these are pretty constant at 60°C on the drivers and some 45°C on the processor.  everything else, including the heatbed- and hotend-MOSFETs is running cooler than that ( measured 1 hour into a print).

seems that the issue is gone when i do a hard reset right before a print, and is more likely to show up after a filament change and consecutive print w/o hard reset in between. idk.

anyway, max speeds on x,y axes have to be diligently fine-tuned to avoid case resonances (and head resonances, especially the fan duct interacting with the hotend body, go figure!) to really enjoy the smoothness of the stepper motors on the TMC drivers. rule of thumb: to avoid resonances and at the same time maintain print quality, _increasing_ speeds may be way to go, rather than lowering them. otherwise, speed ripple of the stepper motors will bite you. for the z-axis, i can't go any higher than approx. 20 mm/s, or serious "screaming" will kick in, albeit not as nerve-wrecking as the original sound. on the other hand, the feeder is absolutely dead silent now, apart from the sporadic "cracking" on retract, that seems to be typical of the bondtech DDG that i am using.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Porkpie
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    Posted · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4
    On 4/30/2020 at 1:43 AM, Anthrix said:

    Couple photos for now.

    IMG_3665.jpg

    IMG_3658 2.jpg


    @Anthrix Wow, this is great! I've got a spare MK52 laying around, have exactly this idea with it. It looks like you've simply drilled additional holes in the original base plate? Could you share the locations of the holes you drilled?

    PS: why aren't the cables running through the original location?

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    • 3 weeks later...
    Posted · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4

    Hi sorry for late replay 🙂 @suspiciouspingpong So for the holes location you'll need to put screw in the end middle hole (that is original hole) and then mark-it rest of the holes.

    Front holes are very close to the edge so need to be careful with size of the drill.

     

    Cables are rooted this way to reduce stress on the cable bends. Bigger bend radius less stress on the cable.

     

    IMG_4113.jpg

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    Posted · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4

    Hello Anthirx,

     

    thanks for the hints using the original Ultimaker Controller with SKR 1.4. It was very usefull. Currently I build also a SKR 1.4 Turbo into my Ultimaker 2+ and it is working fine.

    In the next step I tried to add a BLTouch for AUTO_LEVELING and here I'm having an issue. When trying to do the AUTO_LEVELING it homes the build plate (which is at Z_MAX) at the bottom of the printer. The BED_LEVELING is starting with a HOME and the it starts the BLTouch probe to come out. And here is the problem, the build plate have to be raised to 0mm before starting the probing. ANy hint to get it wokring?

    I saw from your images that you also use a probe (even it is a inductive or capacitive probe).

     

    #Kind regards

     

    Michael

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    Posted · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4
    On 8/1/2020 at 11:47 AM, michil said:

    Hello Anthirx,

     

    thanks for the hints using the original Ultimaker Controller with SKR 1.4. It was very usefull. Currently I build also a SKR 1.4 Turbo into my Ultimaker 2+ and it is working fine.

    In the next step I tried to add a BLTouch for AUTO_LEVELING and here I'm having an issue. When trying to do the AUTO_LEVELING it homes the build plate (which is at Z_MAX) at the bottom of the printer. The BED_LEVELING is starting with a HOME and the it starts the BLTouch probe to come out. And here is the problem, the build plate have to be raised to 0mm before starting the probing. ANy hint to get it wokring?

    I saw from your images that you also use a probe (even it is a inductive or capacitive probe).

     

    #Kind regards

     

    Michael

     

    Meanwhile I got the AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR working but I do not get it working with correct values. I do everything what I found to evaluate the Z Offset for the BLTouch (it's a clone not the original). When I check the Z 0 I still have about 1 to 1.5mm between nozzle and print bed. When I try to print something, The nozzle is directly on the Glass of the printbed, so that no filament could come out. Very strange. Something I have to take care about in Cura?

     

    Any help would be appreciated.

     

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    • 1 month later...
    Posted · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4
    On 8/1/2020 at 10:47 AM, michil said:

    Hello Anthirx,

     

    thanks for the hints using the original Ultimaker Controller with SKR 1.4. It was very usefull. Currently I build also a SKR 1.4 Turbo into my Ultimaker 2+ and it is working fine.

    In the next step I tried to add a BLTouch for AUTO_LEVELING and here I'm having an issue. When trying to do the AUTO_LEVELING it homes the build plate (which is at Z_MAX) at the bottom of the printer. The BED_LEVELING is starting with a HOME and the it starts the BLTouch probe to come out. And here is the problem, the build plate have to be raised to 0mm before starting the probing. ANy hint to get it wokring?

    I saw from your images that you also use a probe (even it is a inductive or capacitive probe).

     

    #Kind regards

     

    Michael

    Hey, sorry for so late replay. I do use inductive sensor same as on Prusa mk3 4s wires. Works really well. 

    I do use  AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR this is link to my config files so you can check them out. Config files.

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    Posted · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4

    I've mounted the bed using three original screws, but I'm experiencing slight flexing.

    How many screws have you used to mount bed? In the picture above i see that there are at least one extra on middle front.

    have you tried to mount it as it is in prusa, using  all eight mount points and distance tubes?

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    Posted · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4
    On 9/25/2020 at 5:52 PM, empeka said:

    I've mounted the bed using three original screws, but I'm experiencing slight flexing.

    How many screws have you used to mount bed? In the picture above i see that there are at least one extra on middle front.

    have you tried to mount it as it is in prusa, using  all eight mount points and distance tubes?

    On my set up i used 8 off them. Results bed is rock solid :)

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    Posted · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4

    Hi, 

     

    Was curious, what power supply did you use? As I am going to attempt to overhaul my Ultimaker 2. Thank you, 

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    Posted · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4
    On 10/22/2020 at 1:43 AM, Dilphat said:

    Hi, 

     

    Was curious, what power supply did you use? As I am going to attempt to overhaul my Ultimaker 2. Thank you, 

    I used MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 24V 14.6A 

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    Posted · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4

    @Anthrix Could you tell something more about your setup?

     

    I'm building my ultimaker with the same bed and Z probe.

    Could you tell something about the printhead, you had shared the link to the files? But how about the Z probe. Did you made a bracket yourself?
     

    And how about the marlin setup? do you still have a Z max endstop or only the Z probe. I always have a hard time setting these probes up. I also saw you have a github with your Marlin version, great! 

     

    And how is the heated bed mounted, fixed or with springs?

     

    Thanks!

     

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    Posted · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4

    @Anthrix I would also apreciate if you would be willing to share the Z probe fixture... My old UMO is aboute 80-90% complete. Z probe and filament runout detector being the last two little mod's I would like to add to it.

     

    Thanks a lot!

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    Posted · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4

    I've come with an hybrid solution, since I wanted to keep the PT100 for both bed and nozzle. 
    By using Klipper , I'm able to run all the heating on the original board ( also the screen ) , but all 4 steppers ( and endstops ) are controlled by the SKR board. I'm still using the original powerbrick , just soldered 2 wires from the original board connected to the new board. The printer is dead silent when printing abs with only the nozzle fan on. Impressive.

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    Posted · Ultimaker With Skr 1.4
    On 6/15/2020 at 12:12 PM, Porkpie said:

    thanks anthrix for your findings! to take things a little bit further, i did some work lately on this particular topic, and these are my findings so far:

    1. have some freewheeling diodes added to the PWM outputs of the SKR V1.4 to avoid overvoltage damage to the output MOSFETs:

    bigtreetech-skr-v1-4-turbo-freewheeling-diodes

    2. also, do _not_ use smoothing capactors on PWM outputs. this is simply bad practice that puts a lot of  extra stress on the MOSFETs. instead, use proper PWM settings in your MARLIN configuration.

    3. TMC5160 drivers should have stealthchop enabled, but _disabled_ through the printer's config menu. this reduces noise of the steppers.

    4.  it took me quite some time to figure out the basic settings in MARLIN 2.0.5.3 to make it cooperate with the skr1.4 and the UM2+. besides that, you need some extra hardware to properly connect the PT100 sensors and the hotend-fan to the board. see more details on my github:

    Marlin+SKR1.4+TMC5160+UM2plus

     

     

     

     

    Entire_Install.jpg

    Can u please share the stl for the power supply mout?

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