Google plus link doesn't work. Mine was originally the other way round, but the fan didn't work... I guess the pink and blue wires got crossed at the head end.
Hello,
I hear a lot about this third fan!
Is it not possible to add an option in Marlin?
Now -> Test -> Fans
Thus, the Fan 1 on, it would turn off after 2s and 1s later, Fan 2 is put on and then finally would turn off the turn of Fan 3.
In case of trouble, what I would do is unplug the card and test with a multimeter continuity and orderly son. To see that the map délibre and when!
We can not improvise, it will take an indication Daid at least on this subject.
In any case, this is the way to go at first will be a test for maintenance.
Alex.
I've have a look later when I get a chance. I hope this board is easily accessible :shock: . I agree that it would be good to have an official test/maintenance option for the fans as well as any other important mechanical areas. I'd even go as far as having a sensor to warn you at the time of printing if any of the fans are not working as they should.
Or at least put a "fan check" step in at assembly time along with the test print that already gets done I understand?
Yes, indeed! It is important to have a check before printing.
But I do not know if the electronic card is designed for this test!
However, it would be easy to create a gcode who face displacement of the head, a launch of fans waiting for Marlin is changed.
Finally, I just suggested. It is me, perhaps I not allowed mixes the case. If this is the case I'm sorry. In short!
I hope Daid see it all and will bring us a reliable test solution.
In attandant, as I told you, I think follow the thread is the solution. See also, by chance if son is not stuck so a short circuit malfunction would one of your fans.
Alex.
Can anyone tell me which screws I need to remove in order to gain access to this connector on the board? This would save me dismantling the entire thing on a trial and error basis which I'd rather not do.
I hope Daid see it all and will bring us a reliable test solution.
I did not read all of the thread, as I noticed Sander was already helping out. But on the "testing the electronics", the electronics boards are 100% tested and verified in an automated test bed before they are installed in the machines. It's one of the major upgrades compared to the UM-Original, where the electronics are hand-tested and problems might slip trough.
The print estimates are off, this is a known issue for quite a while now. And it has made it quite high on the priority list to solve this once and for all. The problem here is that Cura acts if there is instant acceleration on the printer, while the printer actually has to accelerate. Cura currently also forgets to add time for retraction.
The "hotend standing hot" will be solved with the next release, which will include a new UM2 firmware.
USB printing on the UM2 has problems with quite a few hardware combinations, and this is not supported from Cura (actually being able to start the USB printing interface when an UM2 is selected in Cura is a bug) SD printing is not ideal, but it is the best option we have right now.
Ideal we would have ethernet/wifi. Which is mostly an time&money issue. I've done a ethernet based board on my previous job, just developing the board into a stable system, with all testing and setting up production took 1.5 year from initial idea to final having the product on the shelve. I'm pretty sure it can be done faster now (as tech has advanced), but it is still a complex piece of technology. SD cards are pretty simple in this aspect, which is why they are used right now.
Can anyone tell me which screws I need to remove in order to gain access to this connector on the board? This would save me dismantling the entire thing on a trial and error basis which I'd rather not do.
When you put the UM on it's side it's pretty obvious. I think it might have been only one screw - maybe two. Anyway it's
the screw that is CLEARLY holding the cover on the the metal box. We are talking the bottom covers, right? It's very simple. Compared to changing the battery in my watch which required me to watch two videos? This is amazingly simple.
When you put the UM on it's side it's pretty obvious. I think it might have been only one screw - maybe two. Anyway it's
the screw that is CLEARLY holding the cover on the the metal box. We are talking the bottom covers, right? It's very simple. Compared to changing the battery in my watch which required me to watch two videos? This is amazingly simple.
I might be missing something but on one side of my UM2 there are 19 screws, 15 on the other side, 13 on the back and on the bottom there are several. Near the back where I expect the board to be there are 2 nuts. I assume I remove those?
Good news folks.
I removed the bottom 2 nuts and slid the cover off exposing the board.
It was plugged in and wired as per the picture from illuminarti so I turned the plug around (now it has the blue then pink when seen from the same angle as illuminarti) and the fan now switches on when I power up as it should do.
Thank you very much everyone for helping me with this. I guess the plug was wired the wrong way around at one of the ends.
I'll see if this helps with my filament jamming problems what happened again last night and I'm still trying to resolve now.
Does the fan spin the correct direction? It should be blowing air into the head not sucking air away from it.
Does the fan spin the correct direction? It should be blowing air into the head not sucking air away from it.
Confirmed with a piece of tissue paper, the air flow is blowing towards the front of the machine past the head.
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UltiMaker Cura 5.7 stable released
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
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(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
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gr5 2,167
First make sure nozzle is not super hot - must be below 200C or so (you'll see why in a second).
Then choose "Print", then choose anything to print. At this point it heats the nozzle and waits. Then go to "TUNE"
Once you are in tune it will not print until you exit so you can take your time. Go to fan setting and turn to 100%.
When done testing fans, hit the power switch (otherwise it will start homing and printing).
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