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hp-65

Could you speak up a little?

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I can't hear you, because my UM2 makes strange, loud noises 8D

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xwy6bro8fw8h2ft/UM2.mp3

The hissing/rattling noise is caused by the two, outer fans and stops if the PWM is

reduced below ~90%.

The clicking sound, well, I don't know where it's coming from, but my UM1

has exactly the same issue.

It once got better after increasing the belt tension a bit (UM1), but

reappeared after a while.

Anyone with the same issues? Any ideas on how to get rid of this?

It's really driving me mad...

 

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There are 2 problems, yes. My side fans were fine but a few people's side fans arrived with loose or missing nuts/bolts. Tighten all 4 of them and if there is a screw without a nut, rescue it before it gets lost.

The other sound could be a belt riding up the side of a pulley but much more likely - it is the extruder losing steps. Look at the extruder on the back of your UM when you hear the click does it rotate backwards? If so you are printing too cold (or too fast). Here is a table of how fast you can print with the UM2 and with the blue pla that comes with um2 and with various temperatures:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3418-um2-extrusion-rates/

I'm pretty sure you are going WAY over those limits. Just raise the temp based on your printing speed. e.g. at 100mm/sec with .2mm layers you need to be at least 230C.

 

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By the way you can turn on the side fans without printing - just wait till nozzle is < 200C, then choose "print" then while it is warming up the nozzle, choose "TUNE" and then it will not start printing as long as you stay in the tune menu. In the tune menu you can put the fans at 100%. When done experimenting kill the power so it doesn't start printing.

 

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By the way you can turn on the side fans without printing - just wait till nozzle is < 200C, then choose "print" then while it is warming up the nozzle, choose "TUNE" and then it will not start printing as long as you stay in the tune menu. In the tune menu you can put the fans at 100%. When done experimenting kill the power so it doesn't start printing.

 

M106 :wink:

I fixed it:

I fix it

 

The noise is caused by the metal sheets. They are not rigid (or damped) enough.

===

The other part, the quite loud clicking noise is not caused by the material feeder,

this one sounds very different.

I already had and solved the feeder/stepper issue (yup, I had 3 noises before this post :wink:

This one is caused by the X/Y movement, but I can't figure it out.

I already spent hours and hours on diagnostics on my UM1 (sounds the same, but occurs

less) and the only thing that helped was increasing the belt tension (too much).

click, clickclick, click, click

*aaaaaaarrrgh*

 

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It's very common to get a clicking sound related to the belts riding up the pulleys slightly and slapping back down. It is very difficult to see but easy to fix - you loosen the tiny screw in the pulley and then line the pulley up with the belt better: slide the print head close to that pulley so the black plastic block gets close - then you can see where to line it up). Basically straight over/under the metal rod.

 

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Hi HP-65

I have the same issue but only on my left fan, if i put my finger gently on the side when its at 100% the noise stops, i have done something very similar to you but only around the left fan....

if i turn the fan down to about 80% -85% the noise also stops, anything above that the noise kicks in.. everything is tight and secure...

its as if the fan when at 100% the frequency produced causes a vibration with the tin surrounding it, strange how the right fan is ok though on mine...

 

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We're working on a better solution to fix the fans. We're just waiting for the parts, as soon as we have this, I'm sure we'll ship new fan-shrouds to everyone with issues with the current fans.

If you can source them, it's easy to fix the fans to the shroud with 2.4mm*12mm pop-rivets.

 

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It's very common to get a clicking sound related to the belts riding up the pulleys slightly and slapping back down. It is very difficult to see but easy to fix - you loosen the tiny screw in the pulley and then line the pulley up with the belt better: slide the print head close to that pulley so the black plastic block gets close - then you can see where to line it up). Basically straight over/under the metal rod.

 

I programmed an endless back and forth travel for the y-axis and clearly heard

the clicks coming from the left, but I did not notice the belt moving up and down.

But I can imagine that.

At least, I can't think of any other source for these clicks :wink:

After loosening the pulley, three things happened:

1) the pulley moves right if the y-axis is moving backwards

2) the pulley moves left if the y-axis is moving forward

3) the rod leaves the case

I guess I have to put in some clamping collars there...

8/

 

if i turn the fan down to about 80% -85% the noise also stops, anything above that the noise kicks in.. everything is tight and secure...

 

 

We're working on a better solution to fix the fans. We're just waiting for the parts, as soon as we have this, I'm sure we'll ship new fan-shrouds to everyone with issues with the current fans.

If you can source them, it's easy to fix the fans to the shroud with 2.4mm*12mm pop-rivets.

 

I bet these are 12V fans, attached to the 24V supply...

*clickclick..click*

 

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I think the point was to loosen the pulley, line it up, and then clamp it tight again. There should be spacers between the pulleys and the bearings in the printers side walls. Basically, you need to loosen the pulley, push the pulley sideways so that spacer is up against the bearing, and then tighten it. Do that at both ends of the rod if necessary. Then it shouldn't be possible for the rod to move.

 

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I bet these are 12V fans, attached to the 24V supply...

 

Yep...

2Balls

These won't last long...

 

===

 

I think the point was to loosen the pulley, line it up, and then clamp it tight again. There should be spacers between the pulleys and the bearings in the printers side walls. Basically, you need to loosen the pulley, push the pulley sideways so that spacer is up against the bearing, and then tighten it. Do that at both ends of the rod if necessary. Then it shouldn't be possible for the rod to move.

 

I am sorry, but I don't understand what you mean...

The pulley can either be moved outwards, pushing the spacer against the bearing,

which is the current "clickclick...click" setting or I can move it towards the inside of the machine.

Probably less clicking, but the rod isn't hold in place any more...

Maybe I soak it up with grease 8)

*blobblob..blob*

 

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Yep...

 

These won't last long...

 

===

I am sorry, but I don't understand what you mean...

The pulley can either be moved outwards, pushing the spacer against the bearing,

which is the current "clickclick...click" setting or I can move it towards the inside of the machine.

Probably less clicking, but the rod isn't hold in place any more...

Maybe I soak it up with grease 8)

*blobblob..blob*

 

The two 12V fans are wired in series to the, presumably 24V, connection.

If pulleys and spacers on both ends are pushed outwards against the bearings, and then locked in place, then there shouldn't be any room for the rods to move back and forth at all, and so there shouldn't be any clicking.

 

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The two 12V fans are wired in series to the, presumably 24V, connection.

 

You are right!

My fault, didn't check and they seemed to be much too fast...

 

If pulleys and spacers on both ends are pushed outwards against the bearings, and then locked in place, then there shouldn't be any room for the rods to move back and forth at all, and so there shouldn't be any clicking.

 

But I guess G. meant the clicking was caused by the belts, moving up and down on the

edge of a misaligned pulley and not the rods?

I am terribly sorry, but I still don't get this...

 

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Yes, it's either the rods moving around (which is fairly common on the UM1, that don't have the spacers), or misaligned belts, or maybe a bit of both. I'd try tightening the pulleys with the spacer at their widest, so that it definitely can't move around. The belts are a bit narrower than the pulleys, so you might be able to center the belts a bit better on the pulley if needed.

 

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I am terribly sorry, but I still don't get this...

 

If you loosen both pulleys on either end of the rod, then the rod can slide around and the pulleys can slide inwards. If you push both pulleys out as far as they can go and make the rod flush with the edges and then tighten the pulleys then the rod will behave but you might get a little clicking. If you move one or both pulleys in away from the edge just a few mm then maybe can you compromise where the rod is free to slide a little bit but not enough to fall out one side and the pulley's stop clicking.

These pulley's positions have 2 purposes: lining up with the belts and also holding the rod from falling out. On the UM1, the rods were held with end caps so on the UM1 you could position the pulleys where they belonged. On the UM2 you have a little less freedom but if it is designed right it shouldn't matter much.

 

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Phew, I am relieved...

So, I indeed understood what you meant rightaway, but it doesn't work

very well on my machine.

To align the pulley, I loosened it and looked at where it moved.

This is where the

 

1) the pulley moves right if the y-axis is moving backwards

2) the pulley moves left if the y-axis is moving forward

 

came from.

After tighening the pulley at "the best place" (no matter where):

 

3) the rod leaves the case

 

 

 

Additionally, it even got more complicated:

As it seems, the appearance of the noise is not linear nor time invariant

and - in addition - temperature dependent :wink:

 

I'll have to do some experiments...

 

Thank you for all the hints!

 

 

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Hi everyone,

I got my UM2 a few days ago, and I've noticed the rear fan on the back is quite loud. Is this expected? It doesn't seem as loud when a print is running, and I'm not sure if that is controlled by a PWM. The fan seems to be running all the time, even when my printer is idle, so I wonder if there's a short somewhere.

 

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I looked at the schematic (open source, yay!) and I think the rear fan is on J20, and is not a PWM controlled one. I may have a fan with a bad bearing then, but I'd still be interested to know if that's the norm before I try to find a replacement fan to swap it out with. The machine is much quieter than the original UM, though the buzzing fan on mine overpowers the other noise at times.

 

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The rear fan should always be on and it comes even before the lights.

It should be quiet.

What country do you live in? Illuminarti lives in USA and he found one quickly. It would be nice if you added your country to your profile settings.

 

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Thanks for the info! I'm in the USA too; I would be interested in sourcing a quieter replacement fan. I think there was mention that it was a 5V fan, but the schematics show it's hooked up to 24V (unless I read it wrong). Most likely the one I have has noisy bearings then.

 

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Yep...

*can't quote the image* :(

 

===

 

Yaaay, another cheap-ass China brand fan :(

I'd really consider shipping the UMs with fans that are worth something... Doesn't need to be ebm-papst but just something reasonable!

Also, I think ball bearing fans are in general a bad choice on moving parts, because the balls tend to get loose inside the bearing and spin around, making crazy noises. Or, use fans with high quality, encapsulated ball bearings.

http://www.blacknoise.com/en/site/page/products.industry

They'll definetly be around 3 or 4 times more expensive, but in my opinion it should be worth the saved trouble!

Btw. I didn't try those, but these would be the first ones I'd try if I was searching for a replacement. I use the consumer versions of those fans a lot and never had problems with any of them.

 

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but the schematics show it's hooked up to 24V

 

The two side fans on the UM2 are hooked in series to 24V so they each receive 12V. Although if one shorts out the other will receive 24V. Also this means if one fails in the open state the other will shut off.

 

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The two side fans on the UM2 are hooked in series to 24V so they each receive 12V. Although if one shorts out the other will receive 24V. Also this means if one fails in the open state the other will shut off.

failure_rate = 1 / ( fan_diameter ^ 2 )

:wink:

But back to something completely different:

As it's getting colder out- and inside (at least here, in Germany), both

machines have stopped making clicking, belt noises...

See you in spring :wink:

 

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