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Well, I've made some progress and got much better results - not great, but much better. When I was printing with 0.4mm nozzles (PETG) I often turned the cooling down to zero to get the material to flow together a bit better - it seems that this isn't a great idea when printing with 0.8mm nozzles. Maybe the thermal mass of the fresh layer is a bit greater (although it's the same thickness) anyway, it seems that the nozzle picks up on the layer too easily and causes that frilling effect. Turning up the cooling flow to 75% cured most of the problems. Slowing down the print from 60 to 50mm/s also helped (it is laying down four times the volume than 0.4mm nozzles at the same speed after all). I also reverted to a hotter baseplate (85DegC) and my preferred setting of a super-slow initial layer or two (10mm/s). I then switched to 40% infill (Gyroid for a laugh) and increased the outer wall thickness to 2.4mm or 3 wall passes - the overhangs are still a bit rough and the surface feels more like paper than the silky smooth plastic feel I usually get - put the part is functional at least.
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The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
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JonGregory 0
Well, I've made some progress and got much better results - not great, but much better. When I was printing with 0.4mm nozzles (PETG) I often turned the cooling down to zero to get the material to flow together a bit better - it seems that this isn't a great idea when printing with 0.8mm nozzles. Maybe the thermal mass of the fresh layer is a bit greater (although it's the same thickness) anyway, it seems that the nozzle picks up on the layer too easily and causes that frilling effect. Turning up the cooling flow to 75% cured most of the problems. Slowing down the print from 60 to 50mm/s also helped (it is laying down four times the volume than 0.4mm nozzles at the same speed after all). I also reverted to a hotter baseplate (85DegC) and my preferred setting of a super-slow initial layer or two (10mm/s). I then switched to 40% infill (Gyroid for a laugh) and increased the outer wall thickness to 2.4mm or 3 wall passes - the overhangs are still a bit rough and the surface feels more like paper than the silky smooth plastic feel I usually get - put the part is functional at least.
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