Cura settings explained

[nallath 1,120]

16 hours ago, Flutelab said:

So, after re installing Cura and selecting all settings I do not get the print temp in material setting. Perhaps change over to Slic3r? I love how Cura works with my UM2+ but this is sort of annoying.

 

 

Ooh! This is why our bug template also asks you what machine you are working with! The UM2(+) wants the material temperatures to be set on the machine (and not in the slicer).
 

[ahoeben 1,948]

1 hour ago, nallath said:

The UM2(+) wants the material temperatures to be set on the machine (and not in the slicer).

And if you want to change the temperatures in Cura, ignoring what is set on the printer, then you can change the "gcode flavor" to "marlin" (instead of "ultimaker 2") in the Machine Settings.

[Flutelab 4]

15 hours ago, GregValiant said:

@Flutelab - I'm sure you're aware there should be 4 lines for the temperature visible at the top of the material section.  In the visibility dialog you have open what do the information circles tell you?  ("This setting has been hidden by the active machine and will not be visible"???).  When you use the search bar with Temperature as the criteria does anything come up?

Yes you are right, the circles say "this adjustment is hidden by the actice machine." OK then. Thanks, Maarten

[KirkThomas1 0]

Need help understanding the cura quality files and their naming conventions.  I have copied a creality ender 3 profile to be my own for a Multoo MT2X IDEX printer. Using only PLA. Profiles are not showing for my machine nozzle variants. Can't figure out my error.  Is the correct place to post my Resource files for inspection?

[nallath 1,120]

13 hours ago, KirkThomas1 said:

Need help understanding the cura quality files and their naming conventions.  I have copied a creality ender 3 profile to be my own for a Multoo MT2X IDEX printer. Using only PLA. Profiles are not showing for my machine nozzle variants. Can't figure out my error.  Is the correct place to post my Resource files for inspection?

Have you looked at this wiki page yet (https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki/Profiles-&-Settings)?

[KirkThomas1 0]

On 4/12/2021 at 12:31 PM, KirkThomas1 said:

Here are my definition files.  I'm trying to emulate the structure of a Creality Ender 3 which has individual print profile qualities for each nozzle size.  Try as I might, I can not get ANY print profiles to show up.  I read the link you provided till my eyes were red.  Looks like it is extruder driven but the organization of the definition files suggest otherwise.  I have a gut feeling I'm violating some unknown to me file naming convention.

 

Multoo_MT2x_Definitions.zip

[GregValiant 1,246]

This isn't a questions of settings, but rather the right click command "Merge".

 

With two models placed in the build area, and positioned where I want them, and locked in place...

• If I slice them in their over-lapped position, the overlapped areas for both models print "intertwined" so the overlap areas contain plastic for both models.  Double outside walls, double inside walls, etc...it doesn't fit.

• When I select "Merge" from the right click menu the models jump independent of each other.  Rather than being "married" and becoming as one, they get divorced and move to different cities.  The following images show the parts "merged".  (I had to use my X-ray vision to actually see the parts.)

 

My expectation was that the meshes would merge together creating a single mesh.  Instead, the mesh is a mish mash.  They are locked together and l did move them to 0,0,0.

What am I missing or doing wrong here?  Is my definition of "Merge" in error?

It's a visor for a tablet and it's supposed to end up something like this.  It does when I use other software to "merge" the two models.

[MadNess69 0]

Hey Greg-

 

kmanstudios hooked me up with the same type of prob...I had text on a top surface getting printed every other layer inside...in Blender, I took the text and just dropped it partially inside the top, saved both separately, then into Cura... thinking that the Cura 'ignore internal geometry' would clean it up...didn't...kmanstudios said its an x/y/z prob from the modeling software.  In Blender for example, I then snapped the text to the top face rather than inside it and then again saved both files as .stl separately.  Import into Cura and both .stls have the Blender x/y/z information kind of baked in...merge both and the text snapped to the top and printed fine in 2 colors...

 

I hope I'm not off base here...still learning myself so hope I helped.

 

Cheers

Madness

Edited May 6, 2021 by MadNess69

[GregValiant 1,246]

I can put the models together fine.  Using MS 3dBuilder for STL's or back to Mechanical Desktop for solids.  I was playing with Cura to see if I could manage the same task without having to jump to different softwares.  I guess it's the word "Merge" that has me confused about what the command actually was designed to do.

[MadNess69 0]

Yeah...sorry man...my problem was of course being lazy modeling and not understanding the merge function...I know you know what's up with modeling and printing  😀

 

I was kind of shocked to see you asking rather than answering lol

Edited May 6, 2021 by MadNess69

[3D_BOY 0]

is there a tutorial anyplace on how to print a model hollow, please?

thanks 

 

Newbie (serious newbie)

[GregValiant 1,246]

@MadNess69 it was another post that provided the clue.  When I export models from the detail files they have no relationship to each other and so don't merge correctly and have to be manually placed.  If I localize the models into the assembly file and export them from there they do have a relationship to the origin and merge correctly.

 

@3D_BOY CHEP or some other video master might have a basic video on slicing.  Most STL files are solid.  Hollow models (of characters and so forth) present problems because the wall thickness has kind of been set by whoever created the model. @kmanstudios might have some insight into that.  If you have a particular model you'd like some pointers on, Load it in Cura, choose the settings you think work, and then use "File | Save Project" and post the 3mf file here.

 

 

[3D_BOY 0]

I would like to print this object with a hollow interior. The hope is that it can have a smooth interior so that I can cut it in half and display the inside of the face. Help appreciated. Thank you. 

Edited May 16, 2021 by 3D_BOY

[GregValiant 1,246]

It depends on what you really need.  The tops of the shoulders, the top of the head, the top of her hair bun, the angled portion of the base will all require support.  Since they are all over an interior space, that means infill.  Without any infill those areas will fail.

You can try using support blockers configured for "overlaps".  Make one of the support blocker settings "infill density" and set it to 0.  For the rest of the model set infill to 15% and then set "gradual support infill steps" to 4.  It might work.

 

 

[coseng 4]

Any local experts willing to do a little paid consulting on Cura setting optimization for a custom printer?  I know there a lot of guides, but there is a lot of info to review that someone with more experience than me would be more effective at.  Also, I have a ton of other work on my plate at the moment!

 

See my post here:

 

Thanks,

 

Chris

[mardoudan 0]

I use CURA with my CR-10S Pro V2 . I select my settings, etc. Slice my model save it to SD for printing. 
 

Do all of the settings from CURA APP transfer to the SD Card and then read by my printer or do I have to Print from the CURA APP  via USB cable? 

Edited October 9, 2022 by mardoudan

[GregValiant 1,246]

No.  Cura creates a text file in the Gcode language and that's what the printer reads.  There is a section at the end of a Cura Gcode file that has comments that contain the name of the profile and any overrides you used.  Since the lines they are on start with a semi-colon (that indicates they are comments and not commands), the printer ignores them.

 

The Marlin Gcodes (and related Mcodes) are listed HERE.  You don't need to know them all but you should get familiar with the ones that come up a lot (G0, G1, M106, G28, etc).

 

You can open a gcode file in any text editor and find out what the printer is being told to do.

Edited October 10, 2022 by GregValiant

[crowmel148 0]

On 7/1/2020 at 4:41 AM, SandervG said:

Hello there, do you also love Cura but sometimes get lost in all its beautiful settings? 

In our knowledgebase on Ultimaker.com we have dedicated many articles explaining how those settings work. So if you find yourself wondering how a certain setting works or if you just want to learn more about what Cura can do, visit this link; 

 

Cura settings explained.

 

We put a lot of effort in writing these guides so let us know what you think! Looking forward to hear from you! 

Every time I try to download, I am getting errors.  Is it possible that the link no longer works for the information????  Need help 

[DivingDuck 104]

There seems to be no redirections for former link addresses.

 

I found a new location, but this isn't as elegant as before:

 

https://support.makerbot.com/s/topic/0TO5b000000Q4utGAC/ultimaker-cura

[MPestana 2]

Hi

 

I am working with colorfabb pa cf and I choose as filament generic pa on cura, then I go into the fan speed and change to 50% and also lower the glass temperature. But when I start printing it seems that the ultimaker 2 doesn't receive this info and I have to go on tune and manually adjust fan and bed temperature. what am I missing?

 

Regards

 

Miguel 

[gr5 2,167]

Ultimaker 2 wants you to configure the materials on the printer and not in the slicer.  go to the UM2 menu and go into the materials screen and save all your profiles to the uSD card.  Then load that card on your main computer and edit it - add your own materials with temperatures and fan speeds.  Then load the uSD back on the UM2 and load that.  Going forward you select the material on the printer, not in cura.

 

That way you slice for all materials once and then you can choose which material to print later, on the printer.

[gr5 2,167]

By the way, cf filaments will grind down the tip of your nozzle slowly and it will get a HUGE "shoulder" within a few hours of printing and also you will ruin the feeder unless you print pretty slow.  The CF will grind down the teeth in the feeder so that it will no longer be sharp.

 

You can get 3rd party upgrades (e.g. bondtech feeder and 3dsolex sapphire nozzles).

[gr5 2,167]

 

[MPestana 2]

I have already a micro swiss steel nozzle , isn´t the bondtech too much  technical? and should I risk that, with the risk of not being able to go to the original state. As far as I know the firmware has to be also changed, is that correct? 

[gr5 2,167]

Well you will destroy your feeder so:

1) fix it before you destroy it

2) fix it after you destroy it

3) don't print cf (this is my recommendation)

 

If you install the tinkerMarlin firmware then you can adjust steps/mm for the bondtech feeder.  In other words, that version of firmware, designed for UM2 will let you change the steps/mm right on the display.  All you need is usb cable to update the firmware on UM2.

 

Installing firmware is pretty darn easy.  Google about tinkermarlin as I'm going away for a day or two.