Has anyone tried Ninjaflex filament in UM or UM2 yet?

[aelric23 2]

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-original-or-plus-feeder-damper

Try this guys settings that he input for the material profile. I printed out the stl. he posted, with no mods to my UMO+. Flawless. It might be different depending on the print and overhangs. Note that I printed it in a brand new print head (replaced everything from the nozzle to the PEEK isolator because I tried printing in Nylon previously). The temperature seems a little high (try a lower temperature so the print cools faster but make the printing speed proportionally as slow), so if you're going for a model with overhangs, try adjusting the print speed and temperature values to get a material properties equation.

What I mean by this is that for each material you use, you get a sample profile. You then interpolate the values of those two settings based on an equation. In short, you need to find the best speed/temperature value and fine tune your settings around each print based on experience. Just a thought .

[Edel 5]

OK i also need you help i have bad problems with ninja

Printing Temperatur 220 - Bed Temp 40   ------- nothing

Printing Temperatur 230 - Bed Temp 40   ------- nothing

Printing Temperatur 235 - Bed Temp 40   ------- no sticking

Printing Temperatur 235 - Bed Temp 45   ------- stinking of frist layer but the scound does not stick to the frist

240 and Bed 50 the some

does someone has advice :(:(

[gr5 2,167]

Did you read all the posts above? Did you add oil? Bed should be at 60C. If it still doesn't stick well to bed move the bed closer to the nozzle by turning the 3 leveling screws an equal amount.

[Edel 5]

no i did not use oil!

Bed 60 ok i will change it!!

Printing still 230 or 240?

[gr5 2,167]

Use oil. I think I said this above somewhere but take some thin oil like sewing machine oil or 3-in-one oil (any petroleum oil). Not wd40! Put one drop near the end of the filament before inserting and then slide that through the bowden in and out a few times until you can see small amoutns of oil all along the bowden. Then add one drop of oil per meter as the filament prints. I put the back of the printer over the edge of a table and unwind the filament until the loop almost touches the floor, then add a drop of oil. Every 30 minutes or so I check back on it and uncoil more filament and add more oil.

[jameshs 42]

Use oil then add a drop of oil.and add more oil.

 

I use Iroberti's filament cleaner with a bit of oil on it (in the UK 3in1 dripping oil) which smears a thin layer of oil on the whole printer.

Not too much oil though or it can 'drip' so really really thin.

[ian 32]

hi guys.

Ill try and find the STL files for my Extruder and add it to thingiverse.

But it only works with the old ultimaker 2.

Ian

[kristoffer 2]

I have printed some models with ninjaflex on my UM2. Yesterday i printed a model of a lysozyme molecule, which is probably the most complex printing, since the shape needs a lot of support due to overhang, and the shape is so organic and with tiny details.

I print at 220-235 °C depending on the model type and sice, 50 °C bed, from 5-10 mm/s, 0.1 mm layers. 0.8 walls and 0.6 top/bottom.

I have swapped the bowden tube with a 1 mm wider ID tube, and don't use any oil.

The feeder is Roberts modified feeder.

Retraction is a big no-go since any clogs caused by the retraction will just stop the material. If the temperature is too high, the material will carbonize in the hotend and cause a clog, so i would recommend you try to start at 220 °C and go as slow as possible.

You should do the atomic method with PLA for cleaning the hotend until the PLA material comes out completely clean, and change the PTFE coupler for a new one before starting.

If you begin to clog up in the start, just stop and do the atomic method again until you get a smooth start.

Other than that, just go slow and at as low a temperature as possible.