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gbr1

Nylon on a UM2

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Hi All,

As it says in the title, has anyone tried this yet or had much success with it?

If so what are you printing on and what temps etc.

Are you using Taluman or 3ntr nylon??

I have read quite a lot that the Taluman can be a little to thick for the UM (maybe not UM2) Bowden tube!?

Many thanks..

GBR1

 

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Several people have printed with some of the taulman nylons. I've printed PA6 with no problems. With the taulman I think you have to print extra slow because I think it tends to stick a bit in the tube. So I think 20mm/sec is recommended.

The diameter has not been a problem as far as I can tell. Why don't you do the work and search these forums. Someone definitely posted here or over on the ultimaker google group.

 

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The diameter has not been a problem as far as I can tell. Why don't you do the work and search these forums. Someone definitely posted here or over on the ultimaker google group.

 

Thanks, I had a good look and on the Google forum as well and didn't see much (if anything) related to the UM2, thats not to say it not there though.

Will have another dig.

Cheers

GBR1

 

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and didn't see much (if anything) related to the UM2,

 

Oh! I meant people who printed taulman on the UM1. They are pretty similar as far as the extruder and the bowden are concerned. I think the bowden tubes are the exact same tubes (why would they be different?).

 

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I've also printed Taulman 618 on UM2, works really well I think. Maybe I was lucky with the bowden ID, but I get no sticking. I used the standard PLA-profile and changed temp to 245, dimension to 3mm and buildplate 40 degrees. First I tried glue with the glass plate. I got some slight warping on the UM-robot.

Now I have switched to an art canvas (some sort of textile on a masonite) which works great, I get no warping. (Build plate of course changed to 0 degrees)

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i use superbig rafts (both layers maximum settings) on Blue tape sprayed with fixative.

Still, sometimes the print warp so strong.. they are able to pull the tape from my buildplate.

i have yet to try masonite as build-surface.

if you want to try a cheaper alternative nylon.

check this tread:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4264-another-nylon-trimmer-line-found-working-as-filament/

 

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I have just made some samples on an Ultimaker 2. Works pretty good.

Don't know who supplied it though.

printing at 50mm/s, 215°C and heated bed at 95°C.

On one of the prints I had quite some stringing, and instead of it being fluffy like PLA it were a lot of small rubber elastic bands, which makes it more difficult to remove.

 

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Today I tried 100mm/s, 0,2mm layers, 260°, no fan and that worked ok. The quality is a little worse. Bonding is better with no fan. Possibly due to higher temp also, have to do some tests on what settings will decrease delamination. I tried putting the diameter to 2.95, because I read that over extruding material would help with bonding, but that covered the nozzle tip in nylon :)

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I have just made some samples on an Ultimaker 2. Works pretty good.

Don't know who supplied it though.

printing at 50mm/s, 215°C and heated bed at 95°C.

On one of the prints I had quite some stringing, and instead of it being fluffy like PLA it were a lot of small rubber elastic bands, which makes it more difficult to remove.

 

Same here.

the stringing is like supertough spiderwebs in your grandmas attic. could be used to make a whole-printed Nylon filtersystem. i tried to get rid of them by a bunsenburner.. not a nice idea on a white part btw...

i managed to minimize the stringing by cleaning the nozzle and giving it a ligh polish on the tip from time to time.

 

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Seems like a really low temperature for nylon? I've only tried taulman at 245 minimum and I have basically no stringing.. I printed at 260 today and I ran out of filament, so I just fed some more in while the machine was running. Now I got some stringing since the retraction was not working well, but decreasing the temp to 245 almost removed all stringing, despite retraction not being able to function well..

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There are many types of nylon so you should specify the seller and brand e.g. taulman 615, pa6.

Some are stretchy soft, some are hard like PLA. For the hard pa6 nylon I had to go 250C minimum temp or the layers didn't bond well and the part broke too easily.

 

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I've tried taulman 645 now, and it is definitely more difficult to print with than 618 for me. When printing the bracelet for example, it works fine, but with parts that have lots of retraction it is under-extruding. Maybe it sticks more to the bowden tube or something. It is more translucent compared to 618, and at higher temps it seems to "crystallise".. currently using 245 degrees, 2,5mm retraction, 3,05mm nozzle setting, 0,2mm layers.

Edit: The layer bonding seems to be better, and it's less brittle I think.

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