It looks like slicing issues. I would look much more carefully at the gcode. You can try repetier host or this website:
Look carefully at the areas that you know were a problem for you.
It looks like slicing issues. I would look much more carefully at the gcode. You can try repetier host or this website:
Look carefully at the areas that you know were a problem for you.
By the way - if you look at your model in cura in "xray" view - does it have any red areas? Red areas are bad for cura.
Thanks guys. I'm not at my place right now but as soon as i get there, i'll try to slice/check/print and send you pictures and gcode.
I think it can really be slicing issue because my belts are very very very tight (maybe too much) and i don't think i had this kind of issues 1or 2 months ago.
But your right i do have backlash issues and i'll put my motor on direct drive as soon as i get my couplers.
Juste one more question, i've the ultimaker since september and i did not update the firmware in it (it's the original one). I've to do something ? Update or change for different ? (it's the part i dont understand very well).
Thanks again for your help.
No, the current firmware that comes with Cura is the same as you currently have on the machine. It hasn't changed in about 9 months. You can build your own firmware from the source on Github if you need newer or custom features (such as a heated bed) but there's no particular need to do so.
OK. Thanks illuminarti.
Hey guys,
I was doing some test. And i noticed something. When my print start the temp ( set to 210) don't stop changing from approx 190 to 216. I didn't noticed that before but can be part of my missing line issue ?
When my print start the temp ( set to 210) don't stop changing from approx 190 to 216
double negatives are confusing. You mean the temp oscillates between 190C and 216C? Yes that could be a problem. At 190C the plastic is thick like toothpaste and tends to underextrude.
UM Original? Do you have an ulticontroller?
Consider re-running the Cura first-run wizard that autotunes the PID values for your nozzle. You will need to connect your computer to your printer with a USB cable to do this. Make a note of the PID values. If not displayed by cura there are 2 other ways to get them (pronterface or using ulticontroller).
The PID values control how the UM sets the temperature. If P or I are too large it will oscillate. D reduces oscillation but if D is too high or P is too low it will take a long time to reach the desired temperature.
Sorry gr5, i'm french and my english is not perfect.
And yes the temp oscillates but it's only on the first 6/7 layers i think. I'll check the PID and let you know.
It's an UM 1 with ulticontroller.
I printed a batch of banana belt tensioner and i noticed that on those print on front the problem is more present than those at the back. Do you think my problem can be the bed level ?
(Very sorry for my english it's not always easy.)
Bed level only affects the first layer. Sometimes the second layer.
Consider simply lowering the P value by 2X. More about PID here:
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/R%C3%A9gulateur_PID
My values are:
P 22
I 1
D 114
I think these are the default values.
Hi,
So i did re-run the wizard, temp problems are gone !! I put my motors on direct drive and it's awesome ! No more backlash or ugly top/bottom layers.
The intresting thing is that in order to do the upgrade i had to loose all the long belts. I directly print after the big instal and the first print was PERFECT. So i guess that means my "missing" or "miss placing" line issue is due to the large blet tension.
Can it be to much ? I've the banana tensioner, is this one good ?
If the large blets dont have exaclty the same tension, is that a problem ?
My UM1 belts are much looser than I would have expected belts should be. I get good quality.
I have heard that tight belts cause high friction and may cause other problems.
Thanks gr5.
Hi guys,
So temp problem are back there is my values :
PID :
-P 22.20
-I 00.14
-D 869.75
-C 1
I tried to put 11 as P value but it's not better.
Sometimes there is electrical noise/interference between the fan signal and the temperature signal. Sometimes the problem is worse when the fan is *not* at 100% or 0%. The solution is usually to move the fan wires in the print head away from the thermocouple wires. The problem area is not above the head. The problem area is between the thermocouple and the tiny circuit board on the print head.
As a test, set the fan to 0% and temp to 200C. Watch the temperature curve. After it settles, turn the fan on to 50%. See if it starts to oscillate or swing randomly. Then set fan to 100% and watch again.
Another common problem is the cable and connector. AFter the above test, while head is at 200C push it around to the 4 corners several times. Pause in each corner to see if the temperature changes suddenly. If it does you have bad wiring above the head.
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illuminarti 18
I think it's probably backlash due to the belt tension still being off a bit. Did you make sure that your shortbelts are nice and tight? If not that, then it might be some sort of underextrusion due to oozing during travel moves, depending on the geometry of what you're printing.
Seeing the gcode for the affected parts might help see if there's anything odd going on.
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