I prefer to print a dummy "cooling-model" next to the real model. The dummy can be empty, except for the top which should have a less or more complementary print-area as your problem-area, so the total print time per layer stays almost equal. So the nozzle is moved away from the real model while printing the dummy, and the model has time to cool down. The advantage of the dummy is that the print speed and material flow stay constant, and thus the temperature and viscosity of the molten plastic. Disadvantage is that is wastes some filament.
See the pics below. The first pic shows the problem: the hot nozzle staying on top of the cones, and preventing cooling and solidifying. The second pic shows a hollow dummy (except its top), used in a real design.
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gauthier 0
I just found and will try "minimum layer time". It was at 5 s, moved to 20 s.
I have this site to thank: https://rigid.ink/pages/ultimate-troubleshooting-guide#overheating-14
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