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Indeed, PLA parts do deform quickly, even here in Europe in mild spring and autumn weather. Not only on top of the dashboard in direct sunlight, but even in the dark in the trunk, the coolest place.
Now I make parts for my car in PET or in colorFabb NGEN (which I think is similar?), both of which are still easy to print. Since then I haven't had parts warping. But these materials are harder to glue. While cyanoacrylate works very well for PLA, bonding is only mediocre for PET and NGEN, and tends to break suddenly under load, or due to temperature related expansion/shrinking. So I am not sure if this is a good idea for planes... I don't need painting, but if you do, it might be difficult. Before buying PET filament, try glueing and painting a PET water or cola bottle.
I have no experience with 3D-printing ABS or PS (=polystyrene, which is typically used in HO-model railroads, houses, and planes that you glue together).
As a kid I never had any trains or planes in PS warp, and PS is easy to glue and paint. So maybe this is worth trying, if you can find it?
ABS is also easy to glue and paint, but might be prone to warping while printing, and layer-delamination later on. But you can acetone-smooth it to remove layer lines.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
A year after the merger of Ultimaker and MakerBotQQ, we have unlocked the ability for users of our Method series printers to slice files using UltiMaker Cura. As of this release, users can find profiles for our Method and Method XL printers, as well as material profiles for ABS-R, ABS-CF, and RapidRinse. Meaning it’s now possible to use either Cura or the existing cloud-slicing software CloudPrint when printing with these printers or materials
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geert_2 557
Indeed, PLA parts do deform quickly, even here in Europe in mild spring and autumn weather. Not only on top of the dashboard in direct sunlight, but even in the dark in the trunk, the coolest place.
Now I make parts for my car in PET or in colorFabb NGEN (which I think is similar?), both of which are still easy to print. Since then I haven't had parts warping. But these materials are harder to glue. While cyanoacrylate works very well for PLA, bonding is only mediocre for PET and NGEN, and tends to break suddenly under load, or due to temperature related expansion/shrinking. So I am not sure if this is a good idea for planes... I don't need painting, but if you do, it might be difficult. Before buying PET filament, try glueing and painting a PET water or cola bottle.
I have no experience with 3D-printing ABS or PS (=polystyrene, which is typically used in HO-model railroads, houses, and planes that you glue together).
As a kid I never had any trains or planes in PS warp, and PS is easy to glue and paint. So maybe this is worth trying, if you can find it?
ABS is also easy to glue and paint, but might be prone to warping while printing, and layer-delamination later on. But you can acetone-smooth it to remove layer lines.
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