Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up

pats distorting

Recommended Posts

Posted · pats distorting


I printed some parts for a friend out of tough pla, he left them in the car for about 4 hours when he went to get them they were all distorted and changed shape. these are RC plane parts and are likely to be in a car for long periods of time. what would be the best material to use for these parts so they do not melt/ distort. I have attached a picture showing the parts they are aerials for one of his planes  

thanks for your help in advance 


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · pats distorting

Indeed, PLA parts do deform quickly, even here in Europe in mild spring and autumn weather. Not only on top of the dashboard in direct sunlight, but even in the dark in the trunk, the coolest place.


Now I make parts for my car in PET or in colorFabb NGEN (which I think is similar?), both of which are still easy to print. Since then I haven't had parts warping. But these materials are harder to glue. While cyanoacrylate works very well for PLA, bonding is only mediocre for PET and NGEN, and tends to break suddenly under load, or due to temperature related expansion/shrinking. So I am not sure if this is a good idea for planes... I don't need painting, but if you do, it might be difficult. Before buying PET filament, try glueing and painting a PET water or cola bottle.


I have no experience with 3D-printing ABS or PS (=polystyrene, which is typically used in HO-model railroads, houses, and planes that you glue together).


As a kid I never had any trains or planes in PS warp, and PS is easy to glue and paint. So maybe this is worth trying, if you can find it?


ABS is also easy to glue and paint, but might be prone to warping while printing, and layer-delamination later on. But you can acetone-smooth it to remove layer lines.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · pats distorting

Nylon with fiberglass would be probably the best option. Also consider ASA, it prints like PLA and has the toughtness off ABS.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • Talking additive | The 3D printing podcast
      Why should we be the only ones asking questions? Join us and ask Jabil all your questions on September 22nd 5pm CET
        • Like
      • 2 replies
    • Ultimaker masterclass: Optimizing your Ultimaker Cura workflow
      Save your seat for either broadcast on September 23.
      What will you learn?
      · Best practices for iterative print preparation and every lesson you should learn from each print
      · The right way to use per-object settings and when they are most useful
      · Easy-to-use resources for anyone who wants to develop their own printer definitions, plugins, or print profiles
      · How to optimize print profile settings and whether to “keep” or “discard” changes
      · When is the right time to export your drawing from CAD? (Based on Ultimaker Cura’s surprising power as 3D control software)
      · And a whole lot more tips and tricks!
      How can I join?
      This free masterclass will take place twice:
      1. 11am CEST (5pm SGT, 5am EDT)
      2. 5pm CEST (11am EDT, 8am PDT, 11pm SGT)
        • Like
      • 0 replies
    • Do you use 3D printing at work? Let us know
      It doesn't matter if you are using 1 Ultimaker or 10, there is inspiration in everything. We're looking for ...
      • 1 reply
  • Create New...