PLA and PVA acting weird

[katchanielsen 0]

Hi
I'm having some trouble with a ultimaker s3 
When I'm printing, I get unsatisfying results - hardly any smooth surface 
I've attached some pictures of the print, the ultimaker is doing right now & the file I've used to the print.
I  mean the print isn't all bad, it's still useable 
Anyone who knows what the problem could be?

It's not just this file, but anything I'm trying to print.

I've cleaned the heads totally using hot and cold pull
I've changed both the PVA and PLA to new rolls 
 

høj flaskeholderv1.3mf

[katchanielsen 0]

I'm using tough PLA for my AA and PVA natural for my BB

[Framar 38]

This looks similar to what I get with our S5.

[katchanielsen 0]

On 9/25/2020 at 4:19 PM, Framar said:

This looks similar to what I get with our S5.

Is it an issue for you? 
I'm more or less assigned to the printer at my work, and my ''boss'' arent satisfied with the result at all
He got much cheaper printers, who delivers a much better and nicer outcome  

Edited September 28, 2020 by katchanielsen

[katchanielsen 0]

Tried the 3DBenchy test, and this was the outcome?
It's only the side u can see on the picture that looks like this - the other side is almost perfect.
And I for sure know it isn't the file 

Now I'm trying the 3Dbenchy test once again, where I've tried turning the boat towards ''me'' Bc i suspect this ^ being of the heat

Edited September 28, 2020 by katchanielsen

[Framar 38]

That is not right. The bechy shows cooling issue and uneven extrusion.

Please check if the cooling fans are clean and working. If all right, I would reprint a Benchy in PLA using the default parameters, You should get better print that this.

[Smithy 1,146]

I suggest to also check your temperatures, because it seems that the print or bed temperature are too high. 

But as Framar said, check the cooling fans, when you say one side is good and the other one look terrible, then it could be that one of the two cooling fans (on the side) are not working.

 

When you reprint the benchy, just use the "Visual - Normal" Profile without changing anything else.

[Torgeir 280]

Hi katchanielsen,

 

Just an observation of your prints and printing with white ”PLA”.

 

--

 

The color of the filament is very important for the outcome of our print.

Due to the color, the heat radiation “into the object and from the object” is very much affected by by the objects color.

 

In short, white (or lighter colored) object “reflect off” some off the income radiation.

This reduced income radiation of white “colored” object, is also working the opposite way, I.E. when this object is cooled down.

 

On the other side of the “scale” we have the black object (black boody), this theoretical object

will not reflect any radiation going into it, but will radiate all energy as well from the object (when there is temperature difference).

 

So, white filament need better (and more) cooling to make a nice print.

Further, most thermoplastics collect humidity directly from the air, so we know that our filaments are collecting some water.

 

As white filament hold the heat a little longer, “very small” bubbles of vapour might escape to the surface before the filament start to dense and stop those arriving surface.

 

All filaments acts like this, but white color suffer faster of this issue if it’s contaminated by water.

 

---

 

So, for white color, reduce the print temperature and make sure to use proper cooling.

 

The example of 3DBency is a known issue, as the overhang start directly from the bed the overhang suffer for this extra heat radiation from the bed. Cooling from the fans will not be sufficient here, so only way to print a proper model of 3DBenchy is to print without using the heat bed and using glue for having the object to stick to the heat bed.

 

If you study the way the printer moves around when printing 3DBenchy you’ll see that at some orientations of the objects will suffer from fan flow, due to high overhang vs. fans position.

 

For the first problem, I downloaded your model (Cura 4.7.1) and used PVA support on head 2.

Then selected “tree” support (from default “normal” to “tree”), selected some support angles, then to experimental and then selected “make overhang printable”.

 

As the bottle holder lo part is wide and kind of solid, this part can be printed without support using this experimental setting.

 

I did not adjust the temperature, but this is needed to be done. Try (205 or even 200) deg. C.

 

The project file is still for S3 with same filament setting, but look trough it..

 

The benefit of this use of tree and support makes the removal of support very easy.

 

 

Edit: Forgot to mention that the printing time is reduced by much less travel.

       

        I'm using skirt and print it with nozzle no1 (having the primary filament).

        

        Also, make sure you have at least a firmware for S3 like: 5.8.0 or higher.

 

 

Here is the file:UMS3_1971334718_hjflaskeholderv1(2)_4_7_1.3mf

 

I've just added 4_7_1 as it's easier to identify..

 

 

Good Luck

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

Edited October 4, 2020 by Torgeir
Correcting text