Would you purchase an S3 or a raise3d E2?

[Belezeebub 9]

I am thinking S3 or a E2

I purchased a Craftbot 3 for the idex function as I have to print a large number of Identical parts for one of my big clients (don’t even get me started on that POS) that didn’t work out it is going back once I can borrow a truck to haul it down to UPS it won’t fit in my car and the RMA was not configured for pick up but I digress.

I need something to print meshing surfaces with tight tolerances and the option for PVA supports.

I can’t post designs do to NDA but I can post items with similar interlocking, meshing and tolerances

 

My Taz 6 printed this out of the box with no issues on a .5 Nozzle

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917515

 

My S5 was never able to print this design so I gave up after three tries

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1817180

 

S5 failed twice on this even with the .25

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451

[Carla_Birch 116]

What profiles did you use in Cura to print the items with on the S5 and in what way did they fail?

3 times don't sound like many try's if you have never taken the time to dail all the settings in right to be true.

[Belezeebub 9]

To be honest I tried only three times if I was home I could tell you which settings I tried but 99% of the time my S5 is too busy with actually items that line my pockets to futz with a toy I wanted. 

 

[Smithy 1,144]

I printed the Iris box on the UM3 I think and it worked.

Most tolerance issues are slicer or settings issues, but I can't remember which Cura version I used for the box.

[Belezeebub 9]

I tried a few different  horizontal expansion settings and I also imported a profile from Smithy’s

Tried printing at .15 and .2

20% infill

Pattern Triangles

Zhop enabled

speed 30

No Support

No Adhesion

Infil skin wall and jerk at 30 or lower, I am using -.

-.04, and-.05 for my expansion  

I dropped the extruder 5c

I changed the first layer to 100 not 1.05

Line width is has been tried at .35 and .4

Tried, all three of my .4 nozzles

Tried my .25 nozzle

Imported Smithy’s profile and tried his

I only use PLA and Tough PLA and Only Ultimaker branded

I used an Exacto knife and thin metal blades to reach between the petals and cubes all I did was cut my fingers

 

See this thread

 

https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/29350-ultimaker-s5-dimensional-precision-adjustments-refinments/?tab=comments#comment-250198

[Smithy 1,144]

Ahh yes I can remember. 
Maybe I have time the next days to print again the Iris box on the S5. There should be no big difference between the UM3 and S5, but now I am curious why it doesn't works for you. 

[Belezeebub 9]

No rush my Printers are all in use on other things right now so I couldn't test anything.

 

 

[Framar 38]

Considering that the E2 has an enclosure and HEPA filters right out of the box I think it offer better value. Also the index system allow you to print identical parts faster.

I'm not too impressed with our S5 print quality (assuming the S3 would give similar results)

E2 would be my pick.

[Smithy 1,144]

Maybe one more thing you should consider - the E2 uses 1.75mm filament. 

I have one printer which uses also 1.75 filament and it is terrible to have both filament sizes on stock, I really hate it and I probably will sell the 1.75 printer again for that reason.

 

So if you use a lot of different materials you should really think about it.

[Belezeebub 9]

This will be my 13th printer I already have both sized not a big deal.

 

[Smithy 1,144]

Ok, then you are already in this situation 🙂 

[Belezeebub 9]

26 minutes ago, Smithy said:

Ok, then you are already in this situation 🙂 

Yes I have done the 2am Filament change and curssed out the dam thing for not loading only to notice I had grabbed the wrong spool.

 

[gpitts 1]

40 minutes ago, Smithy said:

Maybe one more thing you should consider - the E2 uses 1.75mm filament. 

I have one printer which uses also 1.75 filament and it is terrible to have both filament sizes on stock, I really hate it and I probably will sell the 1.75 printer again for that reason.

 

So if you use a lot of different materials you should really think about it.

I bought my printer mostly for hobby use plus to learn a new "skill" (not that I'm skilled 😁). I've considered buying a second printer for improved throughput, so this consideration is definitely relevant for people in a similar situation to mine.

[Smithy 1,144]

3 minutes ago, Belezeebub said:

Yes I have done the 2am Filament change and curssed out the dam thing for not loading only to notice I had grabbed the wrong spool.

 

Yeah, it can happen easily and you want to load and think, hey come on, grab the filament, and so on.... 🙂 

[Smithy 1,144]

3 minutes ago, gpitts said:

I bought my printer mostly for hobby use plus to learn a new "skill" (not that I'm skilled 😁). I've considered buying a second printer for improved throughput, so this consideration is definitely relevant for people in a similar situation to mine.

For me it is really annoying. I was aware that I have to handle two sizes but I thought ok, should be no problem. But then I wanted to print something in a specific color and found out that I only have this color in the other size. And this happened not only once. But to buy every filament in both sizes also makes no sense for me.

 

On the other hand, if you have dedicated use cases for the printers, then it should be no problem.

[Belezeebub 9]

What bugs me is I glance at my shelf and see four rolls of black Ultimaker filament and think I can get this order out I burn three rolls reach for the fourth and it is Tough PLA not ABS (yes my fault but damm it is annoying)

 

[Belezeebub 9]

HUmmm I posted the same question on Raise3d forums not a single reply this forums is so more active, puts a few extra points in the S3 side

 

[Smithy 1,144]

The community here is great, in most cases you get an answer or support within a few hours.

[SandervG 1,521]

yaay, points for the community! I think most accuracy settings can be dialed in by the slicer, but if there would be any difference the UMS3 might be a bit more accurate just because it is smaller, so it has less weight to move around. 

But most gains can probably achieved via Cura (and the tips you can get from our expert users in the community!). How tight are the tolerances that you are looking for?

 

I have also tried that last model you tried on an Ultimaker, not sure if it was the UM3 or UMS5, but for me it failed because the bottom layer blended. Elephant's foot. When you compensated for the elephant's foot by decreasing 'initial layer horizontal expansion' it worked.

[Smithy 1,144]

It is also often the case that model from Thingiverse (or other platforms) are not working out of the box. I guess the reason is that the user who designed the model, has designed the tolerances which fits his own printer. So it is often a try and error game with these "print in place" models. 

 

But as SandervG mentioned, the elephants foot is often the reason why it is not working. I usually use -0.3 for the Initial Horizontal Expansion, but sometimes I need more.

[Travis7s 25]

For what its worth I was able to print the Predator Pliers first try on my UM3 with 0.4 nozzle.

Edited October 20, 2020 by Travis7s

[Belezeebub 9]

Any input on the MAKERBOT METHOD X it is on major sale right now, to be honest this is one brand of Printer I have never used, seen or know anyone that has one.

 

[Framar 38]

I think Makerbot is part os Stratasys now. I would expect good quality and support from  that company. I haven't seen the printer myself but I would consider it if priced similar to S5 / Raise E2.

[SandervG 1,521]

But do they have such a helpful community though? 😉

[Belezeebub 9]

Nope no one does, UM forums rock