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Dim3nsioneer

best quality with Colorfabb PLA/PHA

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Hi there

I'm having quality issues with Colorfabb signal red PLA/PHA. I get a lot of knots and clearly visible layer structures when printing this material.

This is a typical example:

Example Colorfabb signal Red

 

This print was made with 50mm/s, 220°C for the first layer only, then 205°C until the velocity dropped under 25mm/s due to minimum layer time from which I used 195°C. The filament diameter was measured and set to 2.85mm. The layer height was 0.1mm.

I do not have these issues with standard PLA. The very same settings result in a very convincing quality with pure PLA.

Any hints how the quality could be improved?

 

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I don't get the knots on my prints (changing to KISSlicer got rid of them for me, but I haven't tested the very latest cura so that may not be an issue anymore) but I do get the visible layers. Have you tried measuring the diameter of the filament in more than one direction? My filament seems to be slightly oval and I'm thinking that may have something to do with it.

 

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I can confirm that with the ovality of the filament. I think every filament has some? Actually, I get a larger diameter when measuring in radial direction compared to axial direction. I usually take the axial measurements as I think the bending around the reel might make the measurement quite arbitrary.

Thanks for the hint with KISSlicer; as soon as I have set it up for the Ultimaker, I'll give it a try.

What about the temperatures? Higher, lower or the same as for pure PLA?

 

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What I can say is that colors have a heavy influence. The two samples were printed with ColorFabb fluorescent green and yellow with the same settings. While yellow behaves almost like regular PLA, the green looks much more "liquid".

columns 1 cm high, 0.1 mm layer height, 2 perimeter lines, 50 mm/s, temp on the lower end, but doesn't have much influence

plapha.jpg

But in both cases the extrusion / pressure graph doesn't match with the nozzle movement very well. There is always to much pressure at the end of a path when the printhead stops and "waits" for retraction, while there is insufficient pressure after priming for a new path. You can see the round corners in the green part, especially at the corner where the path ends. And you can see the extrusion gap at the beginning of a path. It looks like the lower PLA/PHA viscosity doesn't forgive as big pressure changes as standard PLA.

I would really appreciate having something like the Jetty-Kubicek-Newman (JKN) algorithm implemented as it addresses this issue. While regular PLA works quite well without that kind of fine tuning, my impression is that it would be very helpful in this case. It looks like the real pressure is always a little behind the actual requirements. Of course, you could go slower but that would mean curing the symptoms only.

 

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Funny how we get different results. I have been doing a lot of work with Faberdashery PLA over the past few weeks, running mostly at 60 m/s and 210 degrees. On Saturday I opened up my first reel of Colorfabb (Dutch orange) PLA/PHA. Wow it was so much better. I ran the same speed/temp as the PLA.

I did not suffer under extrusion on path start or oozing during retraction but, printing 4 copies of the same model simultaneously I was suffering some oozing during the travel from the last model back to the first model. Reducing the temperature to 205 fixed that. So I seem to be somewhat lower in temps. Of course a couple of print runs does not mean I have the optimum setting.

Right now I do not think I will be going back to PLA.

 

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I use colorfabb white; and whatever temperature i choose, i get these dreadful strings. Corners are never straight with this plastic. Not even talking about retraction. Best results i had with 235 degrees. I am capable of printing 150 mm/s with filament twice cheaper than colorfabb. Please tell me what to do with a box full of 165 euro garbage?

 

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I use colorfabb white; and whatever temperature i choose, i get these dreadful strings. Corners are never straight with this plastic. Not even talking about retraction. Best results i had with 235 degrees. I am capable of printing 150 mm/s with filament twice cheaper than colorfabb. Please tell me what to do with a box full of 165 euro garbage?

 

Must be some variation with different machines - I print architectural models in colorfabb white and love it - but I mainly use a .65mm nozzle and it seems to work best for me at 220 and above.

 

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Colorfabb fluorecent green and leaf green are in my list of favorite colors...

I think you guys want it to hot and to fast .. I usually do 35-50 mm/s at 205 celcius. for nice quality.

translation from french ...

 

Hello, I just ordered a new PLA on igo3D INNOFIL3d, making the Netherlands, for ultimaker.Des that I receive, I test to see its quality.

I like Innofil PLA,  I'm pretty sure they are also (one of) the supplier(s) of the Ultimaker PLA.

I also often use cheaper PLA form makerpoint, pretty nice and easy.

In general I like the softness of Colorfabb as it seems to be easier the finish the last part of the spool. With "real" PLA I often don't like the "springiness" (is that a real English word?)  and the tension in the last part of the spool. This of course is no issue with the large huge roles of spool-less pla from faberdashery...

Edited by Guest

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Just started printing small parts for my board game – photo's will follow as promised – with ColorFabb PLA. Standard Cura settings and what beautifull results.

So on topic of Dim3nsioneer: I've got a standard UM2, standard Cura normal quality settings and ColorFabb just works great. Must be something in you UM.

Deep colors, smooth finish. Really great. I'll be testing the filament from Emmen(Innofil) next week.

Edited by Guest

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I'm having issues with Colorfabb PLA/PHA too. What do you guys think?

check the link below please:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16428-printing-issue-under-extrusion

IMG_1365.thumb.JPG.23fd377a9822cd56075d7a2e11b1f343.JPG

 

I am having similar results with the silver. I had to push the temperature up to 228 C to resolve them; but, I am printing with a 0.2 mm tip on a Merlin hotend.

Edited by Guest

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I'm having issues with Colorfabb PLA/PHA too. What do you guys think?

check the link below please:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16428-printing-issue-under-extrusion

IMG_1365.thumb.JPG.23fd377a9822cd56075d7a2e11b1f343.JPG

 

You might want to clean the nozzle, I have the same issue when I change from XT (or regular PET) to PLA, not perticular to ColorFabb PLA/PHA.

After using the atomic method for cleaning the nozzle the issue is solved for me.

Edited by Guest

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