UBIS Hotend on an Ultimaker

[hreedijk 4]

For anyone that want to design his own printhead, below the dimensions of the Ubis hot-end in inches:

 

[owen 19]

I assume the 3rd in the list?

 

Yep, I used that one and it seems right. Only heated the nozzle to 245 and pushed some through so far but it seemed right.

Thanks for the drawing too. That will be a great help.

 

[hreedijk 4]

Your welcome Owen, helping each other is what makes this community so strong!

I found the image on the Internet, just placed it here ......

 

[hreedijk 4]

Nick's instructions on Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:208346) is to solder a 4.7k ohm resistor to R23 on the UM PCB.

I assume the Ubis temp sensor will be connected to the temp1 connector?

 

Just to make sure I connect and solder everything right:

If I want a dual setup of the Ubis hot-end, the second resistor should be soldered on R21 on the main board?

 

[owen 19]

Yep, thats right Harold. R23 4.7k. Thermo same connection as original UM thermo.

 

[hreedijk 4]

Thank you for verifying Owen, much appreciated!

For a second hot-end, the R21 should be used?

 

[owen 19]

I'm fairly certain that's correct Harold, just not sure where to find it on the Um site. Also it's ground and signal you connect to the thermistor out of the three pins

[hreedijk 4]

Found it, the R21 is indeed for a second extruder.

Soldered this afternoon the thermistor on the R23, installed the UM board back on my UM1 and powered it on with still the original hot-end connected to the board.

Get a max temp message (sensor reads 456 degrees), probably beceause of the thermistor and the firmware that not has been ajusted jet.

Hardware shop had the molex connectors for the board, but not the connectors for the hot-end, d*mn!!!

Got no other place to get those connectors fast, no Ubis hot-end for me this weekend , grrrrrrrrr.

For now I'm going to ajust my firmware for 2 extruders and connect my original hot-end as a second one to be able to print until I have the right connectors for the Ubis hot-end.

[mastory 44]

For anyone that want to design his own printhead, below the dimensions of the Ubis hot-end in inches:

 

Its hard to measure, but you've only told half the story with the detail drawing. The Internal dimensions are critical. They will however be much harder to measure. Thanks for the effort.

I'm thinking everyone here who is interested in the UBIS ought to inquire with Printrbot about why they're not going to make more, try to order one, and ask for a contact where we could get them.

 

[nick-foley 5]

I agree that contacting Printrbot to ask for more details is a good idea. After using this for a while, I can see a few minor ways to improve it, but it would be easier to make it happen with their team than to develop our own.

(I just added my 3D model of the UBIS to my printhead thingiverse page, in case anyone wants to use it to design their own mount for it.)

 

[hreedijk 4]

The image is not intended to make your own hot-end, only the dimensions to make your own printhead (or mount like Nick call it).

[peters 0]

Did anybody checkout this ceramic hotend from 2engineers.com (Belgium)?

http://www.2engineers.com/shop/ceramic-hotend-chess-for-3-0mm-fillament

Comparable with the UBIS Hotened ?

 

[foehnsturm 969]

I don't know, but I will give the http://merlin-hotend.de/ a try. Already ordered two (3 and 1,75 mm) for around 50 €.

Besides the conventional heater block the main difference are the tiny airbrush nozzles it uses. On youtube there is a

of a guy printing really clean gear wheels with it (in German)

I will make a new aluminum top part on my lathe, so I can use the same mount and swap with the UBIS.

 

[drayson 75]

Merlin looks interesting, especially because of the longer tip but could it makes problems with cooling down the material inside using an active cooling??

Please keep us informed how the test do - and how you manage the mounting onto your UM1. I would be interested in if it is mountable on a standard head too.

Ahhh... forgot: a supplier in Germany delivers a Merlin set consisting of two heads - one for 3mm and one for 1,75mm for 50€.

Do you think it is possible to open the small one up to use as a second head??

 

[foehnsturm 969]

I'm using a crossflow fan, which I think should provide sufficient cooling.

Drilling up the brass piece should be feasible (by taking care of the minuscule nozzle thread), I'm not sure about the PTFE part.

 

[nick-foley 5]

Been doing some calibration pyramids... will post some pics soon. With the retraction-fixed firmware, a retraction speed of 35mm/s, a retraction distance of 4.5mm, and a travel speed of 230mm/s, I am getting absolutely flawless printing with no stringing at a variety of temperatures. "Cool Head Lift" feature works extremely well with this hotend as well, due to the low oozing.

 

[illuminarti 18]

Funny you should mention that - I was going to post a test I did on the UM2 last night that gave great results with 'Cool Head Lift' as well, for much the same reason.

[illuminarti 18]

Printrbot just tweeted that their final batch of 3mm UBIS hotends is on sale.... looks like it includes both ceramic and cartridge heater varieties.

 

[IRobertI 520]

So I guess the Jan 6th date wasn't all that accurate then. I decided to order a couple of the cartridge varieties (that's all that was available last time they said they were stopping the sale...) and got the note in the mail yesterday, haven't picked them up yet though. Got slapped in the face with an additional $35 fee for f-ing customs as well *sigh*

 

[chopmeister 0]

Nice! I just ordered the ceramic one. We'll see how it works out.

 

[mastory 44]

So, I just ordered 2 of them. I bought the non-cartridge style by accident. All done and paid for with Paypal. Now that I recognize the difference I am wondering about the implications. It's my mistake, I could have been more thorough before I pressed BUY.

How should this work with an UM1? Printrbot claims this heater heats up faster than the cartridge version. That could be beacuse it's more efficient, or that it draws more power. I don't suppose it should matter.

Is it worth the hassle of trying to change the order to cartrigde style?

 

[IRobertI 520]

Funny, I was thinking the exact opposite, if I should try to get rid of these and order the other type to get more heating.

 

[mastory 44]

I guess as long as the UM output can handle the current draw it shouldn't really matter which one. Looking at the nozzles again on Printrbot, they don't mention anything about the wattage for either model.

 

[nick-foley 5]

Yeah, I think the ceramic (non cartridge) version is essential to getting most of the benefits from this hotend. The melt zone, amount of radiated heat, and total weight are all higher with the aluminum cartridge version... none of which are desirable features.

[IRobertI 520]

Sweet, I guess I wasted a good amount of cash then heh. Anyone wanna buy 2 cartridge versions? :lol: