UBIS Hotend on an Ultimaker

[hreedijk 4]

Can someone tell me : are the black wires of the hot-end for the heater and the transparent ones for the temp sensor?

Cannot find any documentation for that.

Thanx in advance !

[nick-foley 5]

Clear are thermistor, Black are heater - they are much higher gauge.

 

[hreedijk 4]

Thank you Nick :-)

[hreedijk 4]

Darn, I'm not getting it to work...

Mounted the Ubis hot-end on my UM1 and connected all the wires.

Firmware configured with settings from http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/?formBaudRate=250000&formMaxFeedX=350&formMaxFeedY=350&formMaxFeedZ=10&formMaxFeedE=25&formMaxAccelX=9000&formMaxAccelY=9000&formMaxAccelZ=200&formMaxAccelE=10000&formHomeRateX=50&formHomeRateY=50&formHomeRateZ=4&formNotUseX=false&formNotUseY=false&formNotUseZ=false&formNotUseE=false&formOnlyHoming=false&formSoftwareEndstopsEn=true&formSoftwareEndstopsX=205&formSoftwareEndstopsY=205&formSoftwareEndstopsZ=200&formPIDEn=true&formPIDKp=22.2&formPIDKi=1.08&formPIDKd=114&formPIDSpeedEn=true&formPIDKc=1&formMinExtTemp=170&formMaxExtTemp=275&formM109Hyster=3&formM109Wait=6&formAD595Gain=1.0&formAD595Offset=0.0&formAutoTempEn=true&formLateZEn=false&formWatchdogEn=false&formExtruderRunoutEn=true&formExtruderAdvanceEn=false&formMachine=7&formSensor=1&formSensor1=0&formBedSensor=1&formEndstopPullupEn=true&formEndstopInvertedXEn=true&formEndstopInvertedYEn=true&formEndstopInvertedZEn=true&formEnPinsActiveLowEn=true&formInvAxisXEn=true&formInvAxisYEn=false&formInvAxisZEn=true&formInvAxisEEn=false&formStepsPerUnitX=78.7402&formStepsPerUnitY=78.7402&formStepsPerUnitZ=533.3333333&formStepsPerUnitE=865.888&formFastFanPwmEn=true&formSDCardEn=true&formUltipanelEn=true&formFilamentChangeEn=true&formLCDEn=false&formSettingsString= link.

Uploaded the generated hex file worked fine with Cura 14.01.

Ulticontroller displays : Err: MINTEMP.

Heated Bed temp measured fine at 22 degrees.

See 2 hot-end temps on the Ulticontroller while I've selected 1 on the firmware builder page.

Already switched the wires from the molex connector, no result.

Tried different thermistor settings, still no result.

Anyone have any idea's, any help is very appreciated!

I think it's the firmware but i'm not sure.

 

[owen 19]

Hi Harold

Your firmware settings look OK

Copper wires are your thermistor, black wires are your heater

4.7K resistor in R23, maybe measure this one with an ohm meter

Use the ground and signal wire from the connector on the PCB

 

[hreedijk 4]

Thank you for your reply Owen!

We already measured the 4.7 ohm resistor, was fine.

I've connected the copper wires of the Ubis to the outer 2 wires of the molex connector like I did with the heated bed.

The black wires are connected on the 'heater1' .

When I connect my laptop with the Ulticontroller thrue USB I see 2 hot ends and one heated bed.

In my opinion not correct, or am I mistaken?

The first hotend display's 0, second hotend temperature is increasing one degree at each 30 seconds, heated bed is constant at 22 degrees.

[owen 19]

4.7K not 4.7 but you probably just made a typo there.

In light of the thermistor 2 showing up I would redo your firmware again

 

[hreedijk 4]

Yep, typo indeed.

No matter what selections I make with the online firmware builder, my Ulticontroller still sees 2 hotends.

I'll try to build the firmware manually tomorrow morning, or do you have one already with a heated bed?

[owen 19]

Yes but I have a different HB thermistor

I usually grab the latest firmware and just use the configuration.h file generated from the Ginge's builder.

I'm not sure of the method with the Hex file

 

[hreedijk 4]

No problem, I'll try the configuration.h method tomorrow, thank you very much Owen!

[nick-foley 5]

Hmm, not sure what's going on there. Maybe try a build of the firmware without any settings for the heated bed? Just to eliminate some potential causes of error?

 

[hreedijk 4]

It's worth to try. I'm going to build a firmware by hand like Illuminarti explained in one of his blogs, take your suggestion into account to try to find the fault.

Thank you for your reply Nick!

[peters 0]

@Foehnsturm,

Do you have the dimensions of the Merlin hotend ?

I ordered also a set, but mine is in 'backorder' and would like start designing ...

I will most probably use it for my UM1 (with an updated design of nicks mount & a crossflow ?) and for a 'under construction' deltaprinter (kossel mini) .

For the delta i was thinking the make something like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:146230 but with integrated vent (unless somebody has a cool suggestion how to use efficient a crossflow with a 'fixed' bed printer like a delta)

regards

Peter

 

 

[hreedijk 4]

Tried many things today to get the firmware working, still no success.

Things I did:

Uploaded the original UM1 firmware through Cura 14.01, went well.

My HB is gone and the hot-end display's MAXTEMP because the original firmware works with a thermocouple and on my PCB I already have soldered a 4.7K resistor on R23, so that's good.

Uploaded my firmware hex file which I use for the original hot-end and my HB (unfortunately I don't have the Configuration.h file anymore which is used for the hex file).

HB gives a nice 23 degrees, hot-end still gives a MAXTEMP which is correct.

I've downloaded Arduino, the latest Marlin firmware, made the proper adjustments to the Configuration.h file (see below) and uploaded it to my UM.

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1

#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0

#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0

#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

 

Now both of the temp sensors (hot-end and HB) reads 0 and MAXTEMP has changed to MINTEMP.

No matter what value I put in at the temp_sensor_0 and temp_sensor_bed (tried them all), it still keeps reading 0.

 

After that, I changed temp_sensor_0 1 to 0 -1, MAXTEMP is back, still no HB temp measuring.

I've set the temp_sensor_bed to 0 and tried all the temp sensors for temp_sensor_0, all of them give the same result, 0 degrees and MINTEMP error.

Switched the wires of the molex connector of the hot-end, tried again all the temp sensors with the HB off, still no measuring.

Switched the wires of the molex connector again, uploaded my previous hex file again, HB temp is again at 23 degrees and hot-end reads 0 with MINTEMP error.

 

 

Are there more temp sensors configurable than the default ones in the Configuration.h file?

I'm feeling kind of stupid right now :???:

 

[nick-foley 5]

Just to be clear, you're not using the thermocouple PCB anymore, are you?

Also, maybe take a picture of your Main PCB, particularly the R23 area?

Also, have you checked the continuity of the wires running to your thermistor? With a multimeter, what is the resistance at the Main PCB end?

 

[hreedijk 4]

That's correct Nick, not using the thermocouple PCB anymore...

See the picture below of the R23:

Unfortunately I don't have a multimeter by hand until Monday :-(, my colleague who is an electrician measured the wires and they were fine.

After writing my previous post, as a final test I switched the molex connectors of temp1 and temp3, so the Ubis hot-end is connected to temp3 instead of temp 1 on the PCB board.

It measures the room temperature!

I have the PCB board laying in front of me, all cables are disconnected (power also), only the Ulticontroller is connected and the USB cable to my laptop.

Ulticontroller measures 500 degrees at temp 1 on the PCB board, 0 degrees on temp 3.

I suspect that the 4.7K resistor on R23 is not functioning right, although the guy of the shop said he measured it after he soldered it.

 

[foehnsturm 969]

If I'm seeing right: yellow violet gold gold = 4.7 NOT 4.7K

 

[nick-foley 5]

If I'm seeing right: yellow violet gold gold = 4.7 NOT 4.7K

 

Yup ...that would explain the MAX TEMP errors. Going to need to swap out that resistor!

 

[hreedijk 4]

:oops: :oops: Shame on me !! :oops: :oops:

My apology for asking your time to help me for this kind of stupidity.....

 

[nick-foley 5]

No worries, done plenty of stuff dumber than that to my printer...

 

[IRobertI 520]

You'd think after all these years they could start printing the values on the damn things, like on SMD parts. Just imagine how much collective headache that could've been avoided.

 

[IRobertI 520]

edit: foehnsturm to the rescue, thanks

I don't suppose someone has a few of the connectors lying around that they would be willing to part with for a reasonable price? Turns out it's a bloody pain in the ass to get them here in Sweden. One of our biggest distributors for all things electronics related have the female housing and pins but not the male ones (they have the -200 variant but not the -201). Ordering from Mouser or digikey means paying a minimum of around 40 bucks in shipping...

I guess I could cut the connectors off and use something else but it feels like such a waste of a good connector.

Why couldn't they have gone with something more mainstream like JSTs? *sigh*

 

[foehnsturm 969]

I have male and female Molex connectors and the crimp parts lying around (ordered 20 each because of the shipping costs).

 

[aviphysics 9]

You'd think after all these years they could start printing the values on the damn things, like on SMD parts. Just imagine how much collective headache that could've been avoided.

 

But then experienced electrical geeks wouldn't be able to show off.

 

[chopmeister 0]

My UBIS just arrived. Apparently Croatian customs officers think it's "Car Parts" :mrgreen: