UBIS Hotend on an Ultimaker

[foehnsturm 969]

The bowden tube was the thing to blame. Results now come close to Nick's original print.

Printing the pins is like a slow dot matrix printer with only one needle ;-)

 

 

[hreedijk 4]

Well, had a disaster this morning with my Ubis, the bowden popped off during a print !

Did't had a spare printed so I repaired it with my soldering iron so I could mount it again and quickly print a new one.

First I modified the original bowden connector of the print head of Nick Foley, made the connection point a lot bigger.

Will post the modified version on Youmagine and Thingiverse.

 

[nick-foley 5]

Bummer! I'd been wondering if that was a possibility, but have yet to see it on any of my printheads. That's an indicator that you could be printing hotter if you want to get the full strength of the material across the build lines.

 

[hreedijk 4]

I've printed the modified version with XT now with 235 degrees, the old one was printed at 220 degrees.

Printing right now with the modified version at 230 degrees with no fan's at all, It's holding just fine.

I would definitely not say that it is the design Nick, it will probably have been my own fault somewhere!

 

[hreedijk 4]

Ubis hot-end back in stock, only 1 left after my order:

 

[ciclopez 0]

Hi,

I have been very busy these last days and forgot to upload the modified printhead with fan mount:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:272996

 

I finally achieved to make good prints with the UBIS, the problem was that the temperature table I was using (100k - Best choice for EPCOS 100K) was way too far from the real temperature. Even at 170C, I was able to extrude and it still was too hot and Marlin is limited to not extrude with lower temps.

 

Then I found this forum topic and tried the Marlin table 7 "100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)" and it worked perfectly at 185C-190C.

The problem now is that after around 50 hours of use, it became clogged, so I had to revert to the Ultimaker hot end :(

 

[jonnybischof 60]

Ubis hot-end back in stock, only 1 left after my order:

Great...

So there will be no more 3mm UBIS hotends which makes it pretty much useless for any new users...

...

The problem now is that after around 50 hours of use, it became clogged, so I had to revert to the Ultimaker hot end :(

Isn't the UBIS supposed to be clog-proof? What good is it if it isn't, anyways? o.O

/edit: That sentence sounds stupid...

 

[czucker 0]

I'm getting ready to try out my new hot end and have some wiring questions.

Will 22 gauge stranded wire be good for the heater and 24 gauge for the thermistor?

Thanks. Electrical is not my strong suit.

Best,

Chris

 

[jonnybischof 60]

I don't have any tech specs for the UBIS (There is NOTHING on the printrbot website which is.... strange...), so I'll guess it's somewhere near 40 Watts @ 24V (~15 Ohms)

That means, for the UM1 (19V), you'll have about 1.3 Amps going through the wires.

A 22 gauge wire should have no problem with that, but you may still want to get a thicker wire, such as 16 gauge. That won't make a huge difference, but you can increase the efficiency a bit.

I suggest taking a highly flexible stranded wire, preferrably with a silicone insulation.

The termistor doesn't need a high gauge wire. 24 or 26 gauge will be sufficient. Again, a high flex wire is the best choice.

 

[rx2mazda 0]

I'm getting ready to try out my new hot end and have some wiring questions.

Will 22 gauge stranded wire be good for the heater and 24 gauge for the thermistor?

Thanks. Electrical is not my strong suit.

Best,

Chris

I used 18 for the heater and 22 for the thermistor.

 

[czucker 0]

I used 18 for the heater and 22 for the thermistor.

Thanks for the advice.

However, I have another, possibly dumb, question. . .

What is the proper way to wire the thermistor to the board? It's 2 wires vs the three that come from the thermocouple.

 

[hreedijk 4]

Look at this image for connecting the wires:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3786-ubis-hotend-on-an-ultimaker/page-3&do=findComment&comment=33404

On the PCB side, use the 2 outer pins for the thermistor, you don't need the middle one.

 

[fns720 0]

I asked printrbot about UBIS hotend availability and they put 3 items on stock this morning. One more hotend left in their webshop - hurry!

 

[jonnybischof 60]

As for my part - I won't be buying something that has such an uncertain availability. What if I need a spare part or replacement next month?

Either they'll continue producing the 3mm versions, or not. But what they do atm is just BS...

 

[rx2mazda 0]

As for my part - I won't be buying something that has such an uncertain availability. What if I need a spare part or replacement next month?

Either they'll continue producing the 3mm versions, or not. But what they do atm is just BS...

While I totally agree with you on the BS of the current "a la Apple" practice. They do have a replacement program where you pay $10 and they replace your hotend.....https://printrbot.com/shop/10-hot-end-replacement-program/

I purchased this hotend 2 weeks ago and it is by far the best thing I did. Heats up super fast and stays at the set temp, no hunting, no questions asked, doesn't matter if a fan is on or not! The second print I did was by far the best print to come off my machine. If I didn't know what I know now, I would be with you on staying away. Now, I don't see myself going back to the stock V2 hotend unless its out of necessity.

 

[czucker 0]

I finally got my hot end set up and so far I'm very pleased.

I'm have one issue though. . . . I'm using Nick's design for the mount and it's messed my end stops up a bit. The head is hitting my blocks before the stops are engaged.

What are people doing about this?

 

[hreedijk 4]

I've put a hard, self adhesive rubber on the metal trigger of the end stops.

You could also move the end stops itself, but that will require 2 extra drilled holes for 2 end stops in the wooden case.

 

[rx2mazda 0]

All UBIS hotends are back in stock!

 

[hreedijk 4]

Funny, no more "end of life" and also $5 more expensive......

 

[rx2mazda 0]

Funny, no more "end of life" and also $5 more expensive......

 

It still says "retiring". I call BS though. Either way, I'm happy with mine

 

[hreedijk 4]

You are right, looked over it......

I'm also very happy with mine, get very good quality prints !

 

[czucker 0]

This topic has been a little quiet over the past week. How are folks liking the UBIS hot end?

I'm mostly very happy. My prints are coming out great and heating up very quickly.

I am noticing some ringing that I think is coming from my mount slowly warping from the heat. I'm going to reprint it in ABS this week and see if it is a little tougher.

Best,

Chris

 

[hreedijk 4]

Hello Chris,

Printing with the Ubis hot-end almost 16 hours a day, still very pleased with it.

I printed the mount with XT from Colorfabb (much easier then ABS), it can resist 70 degrees and mine is still not deformed.

 

[rx2mazda 0]

I will have to second hreedijk, I'm very happy with my UBIS. So much in fact that I bought spares! I also printed my Mount in XT and its holding up great. I kept cracking Nick's original design when trying to push the bearings in, luckily hreedijk had the same problem and modified Nick's design a bit to make them fit better.

Here are the Molex part numbers for the UBIS connectors. They are Micro-fit 3.0...

Connectors #43645-0200 & 43640-0201

Pins #43031-0007 & 43030-0007

I got mine from Allied Electronics, their part numbers are..

Connectors #70190832 & 70190902

Pins #70190633 & 70190802

I hope that info helps someone. I have quite a few left from my order so If you need the connectors/pins just shoot me a PM. Here is a print I have going on right now....so clean

 

[czucker 0]

Cool. I'm going to give the ABS a shot tonight because I have a spool laying around. I may have to pony up and get myself a spool of XT for the future though.

Thanks for everyone's help throughout.