Single wall mesh

[Orange1234 0]

I want to create a mesh structure where each wall ist just one line of filament. I can't really figure out how to do that in Cura, since it always does two lines per wall.
I created the mesh in Fusion360, where each wall is 0.4mm wide (like my nozzle and line width setting in Cura) and 0.2mm high (like my layer height in cura). I wonder why it always wants to make two lines out of it instead of one? Have I overseen the right setting? I already played around with all the settings shown in the screenshot

[GregValiant 280]

What you want is an infill pattern.  No walls, no floor, no roof.

Bring in a 25mm calibration cube.  Use the Scale tool, but use the absolute numbers.  Make it .4 thick and set it on the build plate.  X and Y can be whatever you want.

Layer height .2

Walls 0

Top and bottom 0

a bunch of other 0's

Infill = lines

Infill line distance = .8

Infill line direction = [0,90]

Connect Infill Lines = False

Infill Overlap % = 0

 

I think I would put a pause in between layers to insure that the first layer is hardened before running the nozzle back across it.  If you use "Grid" instead of "Lines" you can reduce the model height to .2.  The downside is that you can't put in a pause and each pass might tear up the plastic that is already in place.  

 

 

Edited November 21, 2020 by GregValiant

[Orange1234 0]

3 hours ago, GregValiant said:

What you want is an infill pattern.  No walls, no floor, no roof.

Bring in a 25mm calibration cube.  Use the Scale tool, but use the absolute numbers.  Make it .4 thick and set it on the build plate.  X and Y can be whatever you want.

Layer height .2

Walls 0

Top and bottom 0

a bunch of other 0's

Infill = lines

Infill line distance = .8

Infill line direction = [0,90]

Connect Infill Lines = False

Infill Overlap % = 0

 

I think I would put a pause in between layers to insure that the first layer is hardened before running the nozzle back across it.  If you use "Grid" instead of "Lines" you can reduce the model height to .2.  The downside is that you can't put in a pause and each pass might tear up the plastic that is already in place.  

 

 

Thank you very much! 🙂

Edited November 21, 2020 by Orange1234
thanks

[GregValiant 280]

There ya go.  Did you end up with 1 or 2 layers?

[Orange1234 0]

4 hours ago, GregValiant said:

There ya go.  Did you end up with 1 or 2 layers?

I used two layers.

I found it very interesting how the first attempt turned out since the holes were almost melted together. My bed was not leveled as correctly as I thought. I put it down a little and then it looked perfect. I think many people have problems finding the perfect bed-to-nozzle distance, this could be a good way to find it!

 

[GregValiant 280]

For me it was adjusting the flow at the beginning of a print to get a good first layer.  Then I progressed to playing with the leveling wheels on the fly during the skirt or brim.  Finally I discovered that I was much better off leveling with cooking oven "parchment paper".  It's thin, nothing sticks to it, and I've gotten very consistent results with it.  I guess sales receipt paper works well too, but unlike parchment paper filament will stick to it.

[gr5 1,631]

I'm always adjusting the 3 screws when the printer is doing the bottom layer.  The first few times it's very difficult.  By the 100th time I don't think.  I just do.

 

I have to level often because I'm changing nozzles on my UM2 printers often.  the difference in nozzle thickness is tiny but enough that it's worth readjusting the 3 screws.