How to unbork my S5

[PaulK 14]

Print went quite badly. I discovered it with the banging sound the printer was making.... 
So, I end up with 2 problems to correct.

Problem 1:

 

The print core is surround by ABS. On a simpler printer I've just pulled out the hot air re-work and worked it off, but here there is a lot more heat sensitive components. How do I go about not destroying the head and, if I'm really lucky, even recovering the core? I've had one less then this previously and recovered the core, but this is going to be a big effort to even get the core out.

Problem #2: Re-aligning one of the rail thingies.

 

I know how to put these in/remove, *however* the carriers for these are now clearly mis-aligned. How do I re-square this when I put it back in?

 

Many thanks in advance!

PK

[kmanstudios 1,120]

If you can set the temperature of the core, set it to the materials softening point and pull it off.

 

If not, use a finely controllable source of hot air and heat it with that focused on the plastic.

 

I have no idea how to square the brackets. Sorry....

[Enigma_M4 119]

Hi Paul,

 

the "squaring" procedure is described here:

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017142879

Note: for proper calibration, you need two sets of calibration sticks; STLs are sourced in the mentioned link.

 

Regards

[kmanstudios 1,120]

1 hour ago, Enigma_M4 said:

Hi Paul,

 

the "squaring" procedure is described here:

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017142879

Note: for proper calibration, you need two sets of calibration sticks; STLs are sourced in the mentioned link.

 

Regards

Excellent Source...Thanks! 🙂 But I also find the irony...if that is your only printer, then you have to outsource the part so you can print again.

 

....Sometimes, I am just too easily amused.....😄

[Enigma_M4 119]

12 hours ago, kmanstudios said:

But I also find the irony

True words. The same went through my minds when posting the link, so first thing I did afterwards was printing a set for my UM3, just in case...

[Smithy 1,144]

In that case, it should also be possible to adjust he rods with a ruler or something else to get approximately the same distance. Then print the tools and adjust the rods again.

 

I think it is better to print the calibration stick one by one and not both at once. Then you have two identical sticks which should do the job.

 

So I think it is not needed to "outsource" the print job....

[kmanstudios 1,120]

1 hour ago, Smithy said:

So I think it is not needed to "outsource" the print job....

So I see with your reply. Always nice to learn a new trick 🙂

[gr5 2,172]

This is called a "head flood" or "flooded head".

 

Fixing this with a PLA flood isn't too bad.  With ABS I suspect it's going to be a nightmare or maybe impossible.  yes heat up the cores and also use a heat gun and tools such as needle nose pliers and expect it to take 30-60 minutes to get it mostly clean.  Because this is ABS you may need to buy a new head and new cores.

 

The cause of a head flood is sometimes that the door pops open during a print but this is very rare.  Usually the problem is that the part came loose from the glass at a moment when it was wider than tall and then the head dragged it around like a hockey puck (if the part was taller than wide it would simply fall over and you get spaghetti).  To prevent this from EVER happening again please watch this video.  It's long at 20 minutes but packed with useful information:

 

[PaulK 14]

5 hours ago, gr5 said:

The cause of a head flood is sometimes that the door pops open during a print but this is very rare.

 

 

I actually had a problem with that for a while, and tweaked a thing or two to make things align a bit better and it was ok. I was tempted for a time to replace the magnets with stronger ones.

For sure, this time, the print came loose. I use dimafix normally for ABS and got lazy and didn't re-apply in time, and printed the same thing over a few times in the same spot, doh. So it is 100% my fault that it failed, though I wish the machine had a little better detection for that (actually just detecting the cover popping open would be a big help)

 

Yah, it was over an hour of work. The head survived, the core *almost* survived; it is still working, but the insulation on the thermistor got pulled back and is damaged, and there is a danger that it could short if things went astray again. Now, the UM is pretty smart about noticing failed thermistors, so it probably could be used, but I think I'll just keep it for spare parts. Its a bit of a shame, a new thermistor (or some kind of repair to the insulation that was heat resistant) would make it fully functional and safe (vrs just functional)

I've had a couple of lesser incidents before with PLA and it was, indeed, much more pleasant.

Many thanks to all for all the help. Thank god for hot air rework stations 🙂

[gr5 2,172]

14 minutes ago, PaulK said:

Thank god for hot air rework stations

Oh!  Good to know about that trick.

 

14 minutes ago, PaulK said:

(actually just detecting the cover popping open would be a big help

agreed!  People have been asking for this for years.  Maybe mention it to your reseller as I think this is the best path to get feedback to Ultimaker.

[kmanstudios 1,120]

31 minutes ago, PaulK said:

Thank god for hot air rework stations

I use mine now for that purpose. Fine control over temperature and small focused stream of air. That is all it is good for me now 😄 I certainly cannot do any tight welding or re-work. At least for now...hope to be able to in good time. 😊