UM2(+) 2.1.1 board / ulticontroller display board help

[marine3D 6]

Hello,

 

Hoping for some help/advice.

 

Recently sold my working UM2(+) which was sent via courier but upon arrival, looks like it was knocked during handling and nothing was working. I've since got it back and starting to try to diagnose.

 

There seems to be power on the board. The hotend fan is working as this is permanently on on the earlier boards. The display and control knob aren't powering on. Cura doesn't recognise the printer when plugged in over USB on a Mac.

 

I've got it to a point now were:

- With the board completely stripped/removed from the printer and connected via USB, Cura recognises the board and I am able to upload the firmware.

- Once I connect EXP2 between the two boards, Cura can still recognise the board. The potentiometer looks like its broken during shipping and whilst I can push it back in in a temporary fashion, not sure if this somehow causes the system not to work. The LEDs for the control knob sometimes come on but barely.

- If I connect EXP1 (With or without EXP2 connected), this causes Cura not to recognise the board anymore. I've tried swapping the ribbon cables and have done a continuity test on all the pins on EXP1 and EXP2 and all come up ok.

 

Is there anything else I can test to confirm what the fault is and whether the problem is with the main board or the ulticontroller board?

 

Many thanks,

[Torgeir 259]

Hi @marine3D,

 

Sorry to hear about your damaged printer.

Can you show a picture of the controller board and the damaged control knob with details where it is soldered to the board.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

[marine3D 6]

Hi @Torgeir,

 

Sure can, attached.

 

Thoughts?

Thanks

[Torgeir 259]

Hi @marine3D,

 

I'll think this might be easy to fix, it is just the encoder w/axe that's separated from the housing soldered to the Control PCB. As one of the plastic tap is broken and stay with the front part, its easy to fix.

You might use "cyanoacrylate" glue or sometimes named super glue.

Just be careful and don't add to much glue, just a little, where the tap are located in the metal.

Make sure there is no dirt in there, sometimes they use some special grease here, but often clean..

You can do this as a temporary repair cause it "might" fail later on..

 

Make sure this encoder is properly seated in all four corners and keep it there until glue is set.

 

The rest of the boards look normal as far as I could see.

There is an assembly manual for all the components in the "UM2" found here:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf

 

Only one other caution, be carefully when installing the display..

 

Good Luck

Thanks

 

Torgeir

 

 

Edited December 14, 2020 by Torgeir
More info.

[marine3D 6]

Thanks Torgier, good to know glueing it back might be a possible fix but I can actually get in held in place fairly well with the 4 tabs on the housing, so much so that you can feel the feedback when turning/'clicking in'. 

 

However, lets assume this is faulty, would this actually stop the rest of the board loading? I would have thought the display would at least still work and load? And doesn't explain why with EXP1 connected, Cura can't see the board over USB...

[tinkergnome 927]

I have no idea - but a few questions:

 

- Does it make a difference if the broken part of the encoder is not attached?

- What happened to the black plastic housings of the connectors?

- Are you sure that both flat cables are in the correct orientation on both sides (red marking)?

 

 

 

 

 

[Torgeir 259]

5 hours ago, marine3D said:

Thanks Torgier, good to know glueing it back might be a possible fix but I can actually get in held in place fairly well with the 4 tabs on the housing, so much so that you can feel the feedback when turning/'clicking in'. 

 

However, lets assume this is faulty, would this actually stop the rest of the board loading? I would have thought the display would at least still work and load? And doesn't explain why with EXP1 connected, Cura can't see the board over USB...

 

Well, if it works with or without a "healthy/good" controller, -who do I know?

All this depend of the creators of the "firmware" that's made for this system.

There might (and should) be a high priority "interrupt" for the Control Unit of the system, -or there might be a time based "interrupt" that go on to next step -if the controller do not respond.. But this I do not know anything about!

This system might hang up in an endless loop waiting for the controller to respond, -due to this problem...    -Or? 

 

But for sure, make all your hardware connected, -then try and see!  A broken part -should be fixed, just like that.

I've been working with this stuff for a very long time -and still do!

 

I've just gave you an advice what to start with, in order to find the problem -in an easy way.

 

OFC if this do work, I'll said; buy a new encoder..  -Or if it works, you can just strengthen the "temporary" glue by adding some epoxy at "some" points and this will never happen anymore.

 

I'll suppose you know very well where the EXP1 and EXP2 cables are to be connected.

 

So, get this fixed and go to next step.

 

 

Thanks

Torgeir

Torgeir

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Torgeir 259]

Hi @marine3D,

 

not sure what you want to do with this, but there is a few options:

1) Try to repair this electronics.

2) Buy a complete new board set with "almost" everything needed here included..

 

Lets look at the first option, you need to change the encoder that you can get from RS components here;

https://no.rs-online.com/web/p/mechanical-rotary-encoders/7295555/

RS components can be found all around the world, find them in your own place.

https://www.rs-components.com/index.html

Sure, for this option -you'll need to use a soldering iron, -so some skill is needed here.

By the way, RS components is quite fast to deliver.

 

The issue with the two connector cable that @tinkergnome addressed might be a problem.

I've seen this thing before, people are concerned that the connector might fall out (?) so they'll glue the two shelf.

So when this contact need to come off, this is what happen.

 

If you made a new firmware upload to the main PCB, this might be the reason it appear to be "unresponsive". After this the firmware go into a sort of setup mode and if something is missing you cannot go further until this is fixed.

This mean all electrical connections for the printer to the board must be in place.

 

Option 2.

This UM2 PCB with 5 stepper driver installed seems to exist all around..

As this one is found here:

https://www.reprap.me/um2-ultimaker-v2-integrated-circuit-mainboard-with-oled-screen-kit-for-3d-printer.html

 

 

Well, this is all what I can do for now.

 

Good luck

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 15, 2020 by Torgeir
Spelling.

[marine3D 6]

On 12/14/2020 at 9:59 PM, tinkergnome said:

I have no idea - but a few questions:

 

- Does it make a difference if the broken part of the encoder is not attached?

- What happened to the black plastic housings of the connectors?

- Are you sure that both flat cables are in the correct orientation on both sides (red marking)?

Hi @tinkergnome,

 

Thanks for the feedback.

 

- No difference with or without the encoder attached. I also tried with the display connected and without (As I believe this is powered off EXP1) but still no difference.

- I took the black housings off whilst testing the pinouts/cables.

- The connectors can only slide in one way due to the notches on the housings. I ended up putting tape on one connector each end to make sure I wasn't mixing them up (Similar to your photos).

[marine3D 6]

20 hours ago, Torgeir said:

Hi @marine3D,

 

not sure what you want to do with this, but there is a few options:

1) Try to repair this electronics.

2) Buy a complete new board set with "almost" everything needed here included..

 

Lets look at the first option, you need to change the encoder that you can get from RS components here;

https://no.rs-online.com/web/p/mechanical-rotary-encoders/7295555/

RS components can be found all around the world, find them in your own place.

https://www.rs-components.com/index.html

Sure, for this option -you'll need to use a soldering iron, -so some skill is needed here.

By the way, RS components is quite fast to deliver.

 

The issue with the two connector cable that @tinkergnome addressed might be a problem.

I've seen this thing before, people are concerned that the connector might fall out (?) so they'll glue the two shelf.

So when this contact need to come off, this is what happen.

 

If you made a new firmware upload to the main PCB, this might be the reason it appear to be "unresponsive". After this the firmware go into a sort of setup mode and if something is missing you cannot go further until this is fixed.

This mean all electrical connections for the printer to the board must be in place.

 

Option 2.

This UM2 PCB with 5 stepper driver installed seems to exist all around..

As this one is found here:

https://www.reprap.me/um2-ultimaker-v2-integrated-circuit-mainboard-with-oled-screen-kit-for-3d-printer.html

 

 

Well, this is all what I can do for now.

 

Good luck

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi @Torgeir,

 

Thanks for the info.

 

I think I was resigned to the fact that I would have to replace one of the boards, but I was hoping to pinpoint whether it was the mainboard or the ulticontroller/display board.

 

I've managed to find a discounted kit with next day delivery so fingers crossed.

[Torgeir 259]

That's great..

 

Just do not throw anything away, it might still be the encoder unit that's the only faulty issue.

If you swap the EXP1/EXP2 connector nothing will be damaged, cause power input pins from main PCB are at same pin on both connectors. (People have reported in here that cross selected "EXT" connectors did not cause any damage.)

 

Torgeir