Interesting project - didn't know about the Tantillus printer. Suspect that most Ultimaker owners will, like me, find the current build volume of 100mm x 100mm x 100mm unattractive.
The main reason this one is attractive to me is because it's about 90% printable and self replicating. I find this project to be extremely fun and challenging, due to the time and material used to create the finished product. True, the build platform is small, but still good enough for making small parts and tinkering. Also, it's portable.
I started to print a Tantillus, but didn't get very far. I only printed 2 pieces of the case. Some day I would like to get around to doing the rest. I like the idea of the small portable printer that is almost entirely printed itself. It looks like a good design.
Cheers,
Troy.
Portability is a very strong point - I'll have a rethink!
Yeah, I really like this design. Would love to make a derivative heavily inspired by an ultimaker - using the same printed XY blocks and printhead I've designed.
im truly fascinated just how much is 3D printed, and it uses the bowden system. if i were to ever undertake building a printer from scratch, this would be very high up on my list. i actually like the way how compact it is.
Every Pearl White piece has been done with .1mm layers, 30% infill, 50mm/sec, 55C for build plate, 220C for hot-end.
The Transparent Blue has much different settings which I haven't yet figured out because the connectors aren't that important. I've been using 57C on the build plate and 223C for the hot-end and it seems to print ok.
I may have missed it but I didn't notice any mention of the material that you're using. From the numbers I deduce PLA?
very cool project.. i really love the idea that it can replicate itself... cool :-)
may i ask is this a bigger reprap project or your own project ?
Have you published the print files on youmagine ?
Very neat !!
Ian :-)
I may have missed it but I didn't notice any mention of the material that you're using. From the numbers I deduce PLA?
Yes, I'm only using PLA.
very cool project.. i really love the idea that it can replicate itself... cool :smile:
may i ask is this a bigger reprap project or your own project ?
Have you published the print files on youmagine ?
This is not my design. This is an open source printer with STL files available to everyone. I'm not sure what you mean by a bigger reprap project.
This is the same case from http://www.tantillus.org/Home.html.
It is not my place to publish this on youmagine.
ah ok didnt know about this one before.
thanks for the info !
Ian :-)
It's a pretty cool printer, I used some ideas from it in my TITAN design. And I think you could print the Tantilus in less parts due to the UM2 big build volume.
Daid, I would love to print it in two pieces, but I have no idea how to modify an STL file if possible and I also don't know if the files are already available in less pieces.
If your TITAN design is mostly printed parts, then I would absolutely love having another project to work on.
Please keep me posted!
The TITAN does not work right. I messed up the Z stage, and I'm not that happy with the material feeder.
- 2 weeks later...
im still watching this like a hawk 
Nice 0235!
I had many issues to deal with for the past two weeks so my parts have been coming along extremely slow, but I think i'm almost back on track, so I'll post some pics of my current progress.
Yeah, I'm very curious to watch this unfold. I really like the solution (probably the solution) to your earlier problem, thanks again for spending the time to figure it out! I think it can help a lot of people.
Here's an update, since I have been getting some quality prints lately.
I still need to take better pics, but I have about 12 more parts to print until I can start putting everything together.
The hardware cost me $22. You can order all of it from here:http://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/
All of the nuts, bolts, washers are stainless steel. Any quantity, no tax, free shipping to me.
I still have to find a good place to order the rods and electronics.
I'm projecting the total cost of this project might be around $400.00 or less.(not including my time spent)
Anyways, here are some pics:
-
1
a lot of very beautiful clean prints... cant wait to see this little guy get going.... very curious... ;-)
Ian :-)
Just ordered the rods, springs, and all the bearings. Just need the electronics.
Finally got around to taking a pic of all the printed parts in one shot. There are a few parts I haven't done yet, like LCD panel knobs and fan brackets. Those are easy prints and less time consuming. I ended up just printing in blue to finish up because the orange has given me nothing but headaches. I tried the orange last night and got an instant clog. Anyhow, here's the latest pics while I wait for my rods, bearings, and electronics.
Hey Chrisp, I've been following the other 10 page thread with Nicolinux's stuff and I see many different ways to remove clogs, I suppose it's contingent upon the severity of the clog. I am wondering for your common clogs, like when switching to orange PLA what method do you use? Is it the one where you cool the print head to something like 90C and yank the filament out of the bowden tube? Great thread BTW!
AaronAlai,
it just depends on what is required really. Sometimes I have to take apart the extruder, sometimes I have a partial clog below the teflon fitting, sometimes the filament gets stuck in the bowden tube during retracting it to change material, and sometimes I get a complete clog where everything has to come apart.
I have not figured out the cause of the clogging yet, except that it could be the Orange PLA from the Ultimaker store. (But this is not confirmed) Almost all of my prints are set at 0.1 layers, 220 degrees celcius, and 50mm/s, and 15-100% infill, which doesn't really matter.
Last night I had a partial clog in the nozzle section. I found this out by changing from PLA Blue to PLA orange. When i went through the change material process, everything came out nice and orange flowed from the nozzle. Once I started my first print, the filament stopped flowing. I then began my 15 tries! (YES I SAID 15), material changes to try and clear the clog. I removed the orange and started using Pearl White to clear the clog out so I could see in detail, the orange color coming out. Every time I would feed to the hot-end and then retract to perform a material change, I found a little bit of orange on the tip melted. After 15 tries I stepped away and had a couple beers next to my firepit outside, then went back in to open up the hot-end.
I also try to heat up the nozzle to 250 and manually move the filament via the controller, but for some reason, it would not make any noise or move.
I decided to take a few short cuts, which is the same method I posted on Nicolinux's post. I was able to pull out a huge burnt piece of blue/orange/white filament.
Now keep in mind that before every material change I do make sure that the new filament is shaved nice and clean so there is no way it can obstruct itself from entering the 3mm opening.
Thanks for the advice! I appreciate all the pictures, I think there needs to be some official troubleshooting guide or video or something for the UM2; it seems like there are still a few common issues.
I got my bearings the other day and just need the printer now :-P.
Also, I read the assembly guide for the Tantillus and am even more interested in it now.
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chrisp 10
There isn't a single person who has interest in this printer?
Here is my current progress without any failures yet! (fingers crossed)
I'm currently printing the most crucial parts of the case. (The Top)
Every print has been done and will be done with 0 support except for the Brim option.
There is only a little cleanup with the holes once the print is finished. Everything else goes together perfect.
Every Pearl White piece has been done with .1mm layers, 30% infill, 50mm/sec, 55C for build plate, 220C for hot-end.
The Transparent Blue has much different settings which I haven't yet figured out because the connectors aren't that important. I've been using 57C on the build plate and 223C for the hot-end and it seems to print ok.
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