My Ultimaker 2 just stopped

[tojiero 8]

My Ultimaker  printer just stopped dead mid-print. All the lights are out. Power supply still plugged in. Blue indicator light on power supply still on. I switched the printer on & off several times....dead as a dodo. What do i do next?....Ideas?
Can someone advise on how to check the power supply output properly for example?

 

 

Edited January 3, 2021 by tojiero

[Torgeir 228]

Hi @tojiero,

 

There is several thing can cause this problem, but what "often" fail here is the power supply devices.

Since your external power supply have the outside blue light on, you need to check the 24 VDC to 5 VDC power supply on the main PCB in the bottom of your UM2. PLS. Do not try to measure at the connector plug at the power supply, as there is "open" pins that's not insulated and very easy to short -damaging your (external) primary power supply.

You'll need to remove the metal shield cover that's protecting your main PCB.

 

Here is a link to a similar issue's story in here:

 

Have a look here as a start.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

[tojiero 8]

I've taken the cover off the underside to expose what I believe is the motherboard. I have found 24v dc coming it at the power connector. I have checked the power switch is also working and delivering. I have 24v dc at TP77 as the picture in 'bez's thread suggests. I haven't found any 5v as suggested but the thread is a bit vague as to where the 5v should be measured at or relative to. Most of the links seem to be dead ends. Also my board is labelled 'rev 2.1.4' not 'rev 2.1.1' , I don't know how much difference there is. There don't appear to be any indicator LEDs on the board at all for example.

 

[Torgeir 228]

Hi @tojiero,

 

Just checked the board version you have (2.1.4) and found only a minor modification over the 2.1.1 main PCB.

Your PCB is modified to remove the "zebra stripes" problem created by the stepper drivers.

There's six LED on this board, one for each heat output (3 each), two (RX & TX) for the USB communication and one for 5 VDC power on.

 

This latter is diode (LED) D7 and should be green. All of them are the small lo profile types.. Not easy to see unlighted.

I'll think the step down converter (U6 and fly back diode might be faulty) 24 VDC to 5 VDC is the problem, this as you found the 24 VDC present, but no light up of D7.

 

I'll remember that someone, not to long ago -found a repair shop in London..  This was reported in here.

 

I do not think there is any problem using the schematic for 2.1.1 version for repairing this card.

But for sure, there might be some other reason for this step down converter to fail, -but normally close to 90% of all electronic failures is caused by the power supplies.

 

EDIT.

Just forgot to mention that the components are on the other side of the PCB.

 

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

 

Edited January 26, 2021 by Torgeir
Error corrected.

[tojiero 8]

I haven't succeeded in finding replacement components to attempt repairing the board yet. Lockdown issues mostly. I have however sourced a new replacement board complete.

Two questions....

Are there any checks I can do before fitting the new board to reduce the risk of a 'root cause' elsewhere blowing the new board?

Will I have to install firmware and how do I do that?

[Torgeir 228]

Hi @tojiero,

 

The firmware is normally preinstalled on a new PCB.

 

First thing, make sure that both two safety links are in place, if they are missing there will be no 24 VDC to the heaters and all the stepper motors.

 

The heat bed heater and temp sensor must be properly connected and the same is to be checked for the heat block inside the "print head".

 

Next, is the steppers and the related stop switch. make sure that the stop switch is activated by the shafts for the "print head" and by the "long screw" on the heat bed for the Z shaft.

 

Make sure, that all connectors is in the right place, if not sure -do another check!

Pay attention to the two connectors goinng to the controller, EXP1 and EXP2.

Also the three fans inside the head, the single little one is cooling the hot end is running using 5 VDC and the two for cooling our print object is running (in parallel) using 12 VDC.

 

The firmware will take you through the first startup procedure/settings, so it should go smoothly normally.

Worst thing is if one of the steppers go in the wrong direction, -I.E. direction from home switches.. If, hit the off switch!

 

Lets see hows going.

Good Luck

Torgeir

 

 

[tojiero 8]

 

Quote

Next, is the steppers and the related stop switch. make sure that the stop switch is activated by the shafts for the "print head" and by the "long screw" on the heat bed for the Z shaft.

I'm guessing this means moving the head manually to the park position and checking the all the switches are 'struck' before powering up??

 

Edited January 25, 2021 by tojiero
explanation

[Torgeir 228]

Yes, -just to see they made a click when they are activated.

Do you have the assembly manual for UM2?  All of this information is in here..

It is here:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf

 

You may leave the head in the forward middle position, so when you "arrive" the test of the X and Y steppers, they will move from here to the home position in the inner left corner.

 

Lets see how this go.

 

Torgeir

Edited January 25, 2021 by Torgeir
Corrected text.

[tojiero 8]

Unfortunately, that link doesn't seem to work.

 

I have only changed the board.

The machine stopped mid-print. As far as I'm aware, all limit switches have shown no sign of malfunction or maladjustment.

Edited January 25, 2021 by tojiero
explanation

[Torgeir 228]

Hmm., I've thought you was testing to see that all was Ok. ?

The limit switches was just a part of check before startup.

 

So you've changed the PCB, tested it and started a new print?

I do not think that your printer has stopped, -has anything with the limit switches to do.

 

After a setup, you need to test your printer with a known good "gcode file" for your printer.

 

This is an important thing to do in order to verify that your printer is OK., -because a faulty "print file" may cause your printer to stop..

 

What kind of object did you try to print?

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

Edited January 25, 2021 by Torgeir
text error.

[tojiero 8]

I have confused you?

please go to the top of this topic

[Torgeir 228]

OK., got it..

But does this mean you got two PCB's(?), -or just have the original 2.1.4?

The link is working OK. This is a brand new link, I've always check this as I do not want to put up anything here that might not be revised etc. But sure, I do have a copy of this file and can put it up here if you like.

Sure I've got some confused..  🙂

 

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

Edited January 25, 2021 by Torgeir
Text.

[tojiero 8]

7 hours ago, tojiero said:

I haven't succeeded in finding replacement components to attempt repairing the board yet. Lockdown issues mostly. I have however sourced a new replacement board complete.

Two questions....

Are there any checks I can do before fitting the new board to reduce the risk of a 'root cause' elsewhere blowing the new board?

Will I have to install firmware and how do I do that?

 

I have installed a new replacement board (2.1.4.)

I still have the old one (2.1.4).

[Torgeir 228]

Aha.. 👍

 

OK.. There is a few thing to check.

 

Hmm. There is actually no external outputs, that can brick the complete main PCB, -however there is "outputs" that can brick the 5 VDC power supply on the main PCB board.

 

Also -the 24 VDC power supply might be checked, -if it has the right voltage, can deliver the max load (ampere) and is clean without high ripple voltage. Normally, they work, -or fail completely and give no power at all.

 

The 5 VDC fan (short), as it is connected directly to 5VDC -I'll think. (As far as I'll know, there is no fuse in this circuit, so a short here might make the 5 VDC converter to fail.)

 

Also a defect controller PCB -shorting the 5 VDC at the main PCB.

 

When you ask like this, I'll answer issues that's might play a role in here..

 

However, most of the problems is often on the main board itself and often caused by high temperature.

 

PS. You old PCB might be possible to run using an external 5 VDC source -able to deliver 2.5 Amp continiusy.

(But this is another issue.)

 

I'll think this is more like what you want..

 

 

Torgeir

 

 

Edited January 25, 2021 by Torgeir
Text error corrected.

[gr5 2,097]

When you click on that pdf link above it may appear to do nothing but a file should appear in your download folder.  A pdf file.

[Torgeir 228]

Hmm. This one leave "should" send you to Ultimakers page in "github" showing the pdf file directly..

 

If I press the link, I'll go right there..  this day.. well..

 

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2 assembly manual V1.1

 

I'd snipped off the last part (included in the link), hope it's work now.

 

 

 

Edited January 26, 2021 by Torgeir
Correction..

[tojiero 8]

Thanks!

I have downloaded the manual now.

I have installed the new PCB and double checked all connectors.

I have studied the 'old failed' PCB and found the fault I believe:

 

 

I live on a Greek island and getting hold of the replacement PCB has not been easy or cheap. I have not powered it up yet in case the 'root cause' still remains. I don't want to blow the new PCB. Can you give me some confidence?

[Torgeir 228]

Hi @tojiero,

 

This is indeed a very good macro picture..

When looking at the picture of the PCB, I can see that this printer have not been used for many hours.

Normally the stepper drivers (5 each IC's "close" to the "metal" el.capacitors and stepper connectors) makes the PCB's withe color become colored brownish due to the heat released from those "stepper motors" drivers.

This brownish color is kind of normal for printers running several thousand hours.

 

After seeing the picture of the entire print circuit board, I understand your concern about installing this new board into the printer.

 

As your printer stopped working in the middle of printing, we might check the two wires going from the PCB to the "hot end" cooling fan installed in the back of the head. This two wires hold a voltage of 5 VDC, connected directly to the 5 VDC bus on the main PCB. This wire harness is in constant movement during printing, so a short of "some kind" in here is possible. As you printer is kind of new, it might be wise to check this wiring -all the way into the fan..

 

What was the temperature in the printer room when the printer failed?  (Electronics do not withstand much heat.)

 

Lets see if this wiring is in good shape.

 

Torgeir

[tojiero 8]

Can you tell me what the failed component (burnt chip) is? Is it the 5Vdc supply?

[Torgeir 228]

Yes, the chip "U6" is the down-converter (24-5) VDC and "D16" is the fly back diode (Always change those two together).

 

U6    type number: A4403GEUTR-T

D16  type number: SSB44-E3/52T

[tojiero 8]

Thanks!

Now I'm getting it.

It seems I should spend time looking for an overload demand or short on the 5Vdc as a root cause.

[tojiero 8]

Would I be right in assuming that if the PSU was the root cause then there would be failure in the 24v components also?

If the failure is limited to the 5Vdc then the root cause must have been in the Ultimaker machine?

Playing Sherlock Holmes here, ha ha. I'm searching the machine for another root cause failure before I power anything up.

[Torgeir 228]

Well, the 5 VDC is controlling the circuit that's operating the 24 VDC relay that's switching the 24 VDC to the PCB for feeding the "users" of this voltage, the tree heater outputs and the five stepper motors plus the 24 VDC fan output.

This latter fan output is probably meant for cooling fan for the PCB, my best guess.

So 5 VDC is the "main" voltage here that drives this famous RISC processor that controls "all" functions in the printer.

 

This PCB consist of four layers; top layer (component layer), inner layer no 2, inner layer no 3 (most of the surface here is directly connected to the 5 VDC) and layer no 4 (this layer is grounded mostly but many point here are hot "have (5 or 24) Volt DC present. Many other is also connected to the various connectors etc.

 

Normally when such power converter fails, it's caused by (sometimes) "high" current combined with high temperature.

This is a very bad condition, as the converter warms up as current rice and will fast go out of control burning of internal connection or short completely the input voltage..

 

Actually, this is the reason I'm using two small fan (24 VDC) connected in serial to avoid much noise but work very good for cooling this PCB. (I've to install those fans in a foam "attachment" to avoid the chassis act as a resonance box.) 🙂

 

Finally just a few point holding 5 VDC; J34 pin 1, TP13 (same as J5 pin 1 safety switch) and TP16 close to U6.

 

This will keep you busy..

Torgeir

 

[gr5 2,097]

I would definitely check wiring to 5v devices carefully and the only thing I can think of is the 5v fan (the side fans are 24V) and the other pcb that has the display.

 

It's quite possible that the problem is with one of the 5V chips such as the "arduino"  and that the problem is completely on the old board.  But if it were me I would measure the resistance to the 5V fan with an ohm - meter and move the print head around while measuring to see if the resistance occasionally drops to less than 5 ohms.

 

Also when powering up the first time I would try without the fan and without the LCD board connected (it's harmless to leave that unconnected but don't plug/unplug  while power is on).  Because the worst thing is to destroy a second PCB and also not know why!

 

Whereas if you plug things in slowly and it dies right after plugging in the fan or the display LCD then you have an idea what the cause was.

 

If you have an IR camera (or even just an IR thermometer) then point it at that chip that died while turning things on.  If it gets above 100C cut the power right away.  It can probably handle 100C but that's an indication that something is wrong.

[tojiero 8]

Thank you,

I have stripped everything and searched for indications. I have found no signs anywhere, but it occurred to me that there could have been some condensation at the time of failure.

I have an IR thermometer. I will do a multi-staged power up.

Wish me luck...😨