Extuder straight up and down? Adhesion layer problems ender v2

[nitro20 1]

So ive "all of a sudden" after 20 lbs of just haveing a great time in plastic trash am having adhesion problems.

Ive had time to understand 85% of how this works and then it just stopped building an adhesion 1st layer without curling up, not sticking and shrinking to fast. (Please dont ask if i leveled my bed and all the bla bla bla stuff please) I witnessed this happen about 100 times in the last 12 hours, trying EVERYTHING u are about to ask me,  this is ALL IVE BEEN DOIN ALL DAY! laying down adhesion layers watching them pull up and bla bla bla.... BUT then i noticed something, the extution tip was not really pointing straight down, me and my OCD went to work on  the case of "the crooked tip"......so, back to today

i was only having issues on the back stroke and first parts of top left corners, i adjusted the the "angle" of the extruder, and started geting the nice perfect layer on the side it wasnt before and visa versa. So, i started looking at ALL the variables of what a LEVEL bed 

REALLY is or means when we say this...

I know what i have witnessed today with 25 or more adjustments and 100 failed adhesion layers, (should mention i am useing .2 tip)   im pretty sure it has something to do with "squareing" up the tip to the sufface also. If you really want to dig deep, we are dealing with tolerances so small even the SLIGHTEST indifference will be cause and effect.. i MIGHT have changed 1/2 degree in tip drection and thats only in a 2 inch span, and had a new out come( leveling my bed everytime) 

 

I checked the extuder caridge wheels to see it they are still tight (ender v2) i noticed on my Ender it looks like the tip may be tilted back some, the mounting surface SUCKS,, no adjustment for front to back. 

 

Any SLIGHTEST way that tip can extrude .2 mm of plastic just 1/4 that in one direction will become a bump for the next path to run over and breaking its adhesion...ESPECIALLY running .2 to .3 tip ...do we even know how small that is...lolol...i must mention that when i put on a .4 tip i have NO problem getting it to stick..its when i go smaller..

So also, i know this is long but if you want to get into it then lets. Im 3 weeks old in 3d printing, so im a easy target...

What about SHIT tips, could the way the tips are beveled and stuff have and effect. if the tips comes around and drags on the layer before...bam...

Are there beter tips then others...

 

 

Alls im sayin is...this ender and me have been married for a month and last night i wanted to give it divorce papers, i still havent layed down the perfect adhesion layers i was doing just a day ago but i got to a livable tolerance with out changing code, this that or the other thing, it worked before and ill be gid dammed if its not gonna work as it  did a day ago. dont need another hobbie, i need a 3d printer for my other hobbie..lololol

 

 

Edited January 13, 2021 by nitro20

[nitro20 1]

Oh and also i HAD to turn the speed down to 25 to 35% on smaller pieces  like this to get the adhesive layer to stick even before "the issues"....

 

Im goin to drill and tap just behind the extruder, just under that lip, to be able to in some way plumb the hot end to table too...enderv2

Edited January 10, 2021 by nitro20

[GregValiant 1,246]

A jack screw in the back will help tip it forward.  Pulling it back would need a different fix.

 

BTW - I know PLA and those clamps you printed for the Bridgeport won't hold up to being reefed down with a 16 inch wrench.

[nitro20 1]

Lololololol...ur so funny bro...those are REAL tool steel clamp bars, they are perfectly dimensional, i have small praxxon end mill, so these i used to adjust the hot end..lololol.?&%$#@$%.

Plus! if a print turned out that good, i think i would be the chang of af all chins......lolololol still laughing...funny ass comment bro..i would prolly only be dreaming of a bridge port on my salary..lolol...if get my hands on a 5-1 in my life time ill be like a dog with 2 dicks and a couple firehidrents.....

[nitro20 1]

But back to the topic...

Bed leveling..OK here we go..i know i am new to 3d printing but what im not new to is BS, 

So, you really dont have to go around the bed leveling twice to make sure bla bla bla...think about it guys and gals, if you level the bed just above the adjustment screw, that is the axis, do all four, there no way to tip a corner up when leveling, bla bla bla....

I do mine by "move" commands to keep z axis locked...x30 y25, and go from there...make sure dont run into the plate clips..again ender v2...

[nitro20 1]

Level bed, plumb hot end, tighten wheels, bla bla, didnt get to that forward adjustment screw..but...

.2, stock cura, print speed 40%, u can see where i speed up to 60..it started pelling...

But, i still have NO issue with .4 100% speed. 

Ordered a duel drive....lol..they got me...

Edited January 13, 2021 by nitro20

[GregValiant 1,246]

So you've thought about it eh?  You're right.  How many people actually consider that though.  I always go back and check that first corner just in case.  It may be like wearing a belt and suspenders, but it makes me feel better.

My original crutch for leveling was to kick the Initial Layer Flow to 110%.  It didn't really cause elephant foot because my leveling wasn't very good.  When I switched to parchment paper (.04mm thick) it made a big difference in my consistency and I dropped the initial layer back to 100%.  I tried using a feeler gauge but I didn't get the good feed back like I do with the paper.  Another thing I practiced was using a wider skirt and adjusting on the fly.  I got good at it, but as I say, I'm pretty consistent now.

[nitro20 1]

I did try to adjust flow to 115% on both .4 and .2..no way on .2 with stock feeder gear...

.4 i just had more plastics laid down.. never had a problem with .4 though..i dont know what i did, but lolol but ALL OF A SUDDEN, there are no issues on .2 tip as long as i lay down a first layer 40% print speed or lower, stock cura settings, ender v2, with pla.....

I did start useing receipt paper, and it did help a ton.   I only z-axis adjust -.05 - -.1 at start now. With printing paper i could do -.20--.25 without touching the plate...

Edited January 13, 2021 by nitro20

[nitro20 1]

So last night i went print a 21 hour piece at .2 layer and a .4 tip, i only have .2 in harden steel i purchased with .2-1.0 and only .4 in brass,so i wont have any experience with .2 brass tips till Saturday's amozon shipment.....BUT that being said i put on a steel .4 tip, all stock cura settings, enderv2, pla, 100%PS....the night before i used a brass .4 on the same settings, but messed up the design and shut it off early...but this is what i have witnessed......today started .4 brass tip, same project the one under the printer picture....and the steel .4 tip from last that had no adhesion to the layers,but what i noticed first was the gaps i placed in the hydro cup are filled with strings of plastic that are attached extremely well for being that small...

So to answer my own question, HELL FRIGEN, yes there is beter tips then others....SSOOOO. OCD is on the case....ANYONE use ruby tips...lololololol...thats about fiveteen-1.6 pint Widowmakers, 10.2%bv beers....lolololol...and i dont want to run into that drinkin problem man, two hands and an empty can...lololol..

Edited January 13, 2021 by nitro20

[GregValiant 1,246]

Finally, I figured it out.  Your last picture shows the problem perfectly.  It's your build surface.  You've got it on glass backwards!

[nitro20 1]

Glass backwards??? The side with the dimples or the smooth side..ive been running dimple side up...

 

And also...ive found there isnt really a problem..unless i can lay down an ahesive layer, .2 tip at 100% print speed?

 

OHHHH, u mean the glass 

is like 360 in x or y axis....lololol..just wanted to see if the other side stuck the extruder dump clean out beter..there was a sufface that was sprayed on to the plate, it was yellow in color, i noticed it removing when i wiped down with REAL 95% alcohol..(i re-distill 70% to 92-95% after purchase, coronavirus is a bitch, to some).....so i was wondering if creality has a bad ass sticky gue they coated the surface with?

 

Edited January 14, 2021 by nitro20

[nitro20 1]

So many variables to getting that "out of the box" experience again...

 

Today i have found .....i think.

What if some filiment is built up and the tip is being thermoed by the plastic in the threads? 

What if the tip isnt changed rite and some filiment gets caught up between the bomen tube and the tip, then the tip wont seat correctly and ozes out filiment between the threads.. you plumbers would think this wouldnt be an issue, but it happened to me...if we can squeeze out threw a .2 hole, any gap between the boman tube and the tip will result in not enough pressure to push .2 nozzles...

And when i say any gap...i mean it..i saw it happen...

So now a new .4 tip and bowman tube and clean threads to seat the tip to the tube.. the tip has changed that rainbow color, is evidently heated up to a suggested temp with no issues, and the print now is perfect....

I think as of this point in MY own discoveries to NEWBIE in 3d printing, my question come with obvious answers.......

 

[nitro20 1]

And the results of me, a pot of cofee, and a enderv2, refurbed after 3 weeks of use, or maybe that first unorthidoxed tip change.....who knows? Lololol..

[GregValiant 1,246]

Professional.

The problem with the nozzle gap usually shows up much earlier than it did on your "cup" print.  About an hour give or take.  Then the constant retractions pull plastic up into that gap and cause a partial blockage.  Because the print got so far it never occurred to me that it might be a problem.

[nitro20 1]

So yea, that was my fault in the design..

I had it shelled out at 2mm, leaveing a .4mm gap the machine thought it had to fill sometimes...

 

A cup that is shelled out at 2mm,

.4 tip, set to .2 layer hieght, and cura stock settings set to .8 wall thickness, leaves a .4 void.....

 

At least thats what i thought was happening, the piece printing as we speak seems to be goin around and around..