Ultimaker 3 extended "Max Temp. error on Build Plate"

[hoehneb 0]

Hi,

I have an Ultimaker 3 Extended.

Of late, I've been getting the error "Max Temp. Error on Build Plate.  Go to Ultimaker.Com/er14".  This prevents prints from going forward.

Document ER14 suggests that the problem might be connection between the build plate and the wires in the back.  I've pushed and worked them a bit to ensure that they are seated properly, and this has not cleared up the error, although access to these wires is tricky given their location and the fact that the tray cannot be brought up when the error is present. (Indeed, the only thing one can do is cycle the power on the printer.)

Another Ultimaker forum suggested the issue might be contact between the print core and the print head, which seemed to make sense given that I had recently changed one of my print cores.   I took the core out, cleaned the contacts with a Q-Tip and Alcohol, and replaced it, ensuring that it was seated properly.

This, too, did not work.

Before getting service on the printer, is there anything else that I can try on my own?   The printer cannot be used at this point.

Edited March 2, 2021 by hoehneb

[gr5 2,070]

er14 is definitely related to build plate.  Not cores.  Not print head.

 

If you go to the web page it's pretty clear it is seeing max temp.  Which is something like 500C.  Which means your house has been placed in a furnace.  Or there is a problem reading the temp sensor.  If there is an open (for example broken wire) you will get this error.

 

Usually the problem happens right at the connector.  I'd take apart the print bed and unscrew the cable and carefully remove the build plate without twisting the wires too much.  The larger 2 wires go to the heater.  Your problem is the sensor - the smaller 2 wires.  Maybe take a photo of how that connector works.  There's many ways for the failure to occur.  Do you have a soldering iron or a friend who does?  Maybe reflow the solder - I'm not sure what the UM3 buildplate looks like as I've only taken apart my UM2 buildplate and the UM3 is likely different.  Maybe remove the two sensor wires, make sure they are clean, and put them back in there nice and tight.

[gr5 2,070]

https://fbrc8.com/products/heated-bed-panel-and-cableum3-um3x

 

Okay I can see in the picture at the above link that it's a press fit connection.  I'd fill those connectors with a bit of solder as it seems to me that's the most likely point of failure.  You could check the other end of the cable under the printer but with the print bed going up and down often and with experience from my UM2 heated bed failure I suspect those press fit connectors (or whatever they are called).  Again - the smaller 2 wires - where they connect to the heated bed in the photo above.

[hoehneb 0]

Thank you, gr5.   I'll dissemble the build plate and see if there's an issue with the two smaller wires.

 

[CarloK 201]

What material are you printing with?
Some materials require a high temperature of 90C+, this is close to the maximum a printer can reach at room temperatures. When your printer is located in a colder environment or with moving air, then this might be your problem. Simple solution is to cover your printer under a large carton box.

[gr5 2,070]

Yes but that won't get the build plate over 400C.  That error happens when you get an open in the wiring.

[hoehneb 0]

Hi,

I'm printing with ABS white on one side and PVA on the other for support (hopefully, that is... this occurred immediately after I switched to a BB 0.4 print core and I haven't been able to print much PVA yet.)

 

[hoehneb 0]

I've been told that PVA works best if you warm it for a while on the build plate to dry it out.  Is that so?

 

[gr5 2,070]

I would avoid using this printer for more than a 1 hour print until you resolder the sensor wires to the bed.

 

Yes it's good to dry out PVA.  It's fine when right out of the package.  It can absorb water in just a day or two and be "bad".

 

The symptom is you can hear it popping and sizzling and see steam coming out as you print the PVA.  PVA is just harder to print.  I don't think it works at all with ABS by the way.

 

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011461000-Ultimaker-3-Material-compatibility

 

Yeah in the link above ABS doesn't work great with PVA.  To print ABS well you need the bed at 110C.  But that's probably so hot that the PVA will melt on the bed.  Breakaway works great with ABS.

 

I recommend never using ABS anyway.  Ever.  It's nasty stuff and any properties you may need you should be able to find elsewhere.  It's difficult to print and smells nasty.

 

Back to PVA.  Put 10cm of PVA filament on the heat bed and a towel over that and heat to various temperatures.  I forget now but I think PVA gets quite soft around 70C or 80C (like clay).  After sitting at temp for 15 seconds, pull out the pva and bend it and if it goes back to the old shape then that temp is fine but if it moves to the new shape then that's probably too hot for drying PVA.

 

So I forget the ideal temp but assume it's 70C - put the whole spool on the bed with a towel over everything and a few blankets on that - leave it overnight to let all the water escape.

 

If you are doing a quick print and only need a meter then just unspool a meter and put it on the bed under the rest of the spool.  Again, cover with towel and let it dry for 30-60 minutes.

 

Never leave pva on the back of the printer overnight unless it is being used for a print.  When not in use store in zip lock bag with LARGE pack(s) of dessicant.  Recharge dessicant every few months.

[hoehneb 0]

Okay, thanks for the advice.

Given this, will be easier if I put the PLA on spool one, where it can more easily be removed after each print.     We're using it for its solubility in water, BTW.

We do use PVA as well, would there be any issues with PVA/PLA compatibility? 

[gr5 2,070]

pva/pla work pretty well together.  PVA just isn't as easy to print as most materials but it does the job.